109. Altyn-Beshik via the North Ridge. The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 104–106). Length — 900 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 3–4 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alp camp (group of 4-12 people) go down the road to the Kirgizata River. Cross the Kirgizata River by bridge and, turning left, ascend along the road on the right bank of the Karagoy River in the eponymous gorge to the first side gorge (сай). Here, turn right and ascend along the pack trail on the right side of the side gorge, then across the moraine and scree up and right, to reach a small plateau between the Altyn-Beshik peak and a solitary gendarme. From the alp camp — 3–3.5 hours. On the plateau is the initial bivouac. From the plateau, go left and up along the easy rocky Western Ridge to the 1st rocky rise. Bypass the rise by traversing across the scree on the right to a couloir. Through simple steep 45–50° rocks on the left, then right side of the couloir ("live" rocks, drippy ice, piton belay), make a 100–120-meter ascent to the North Ridge. Along the horizontal 40-meter North Ridge, a 5-meter moderately difficult wall, and 50–60 meters of easy North Ridge on scree, reach a scree shelf below the 2nd rise.

R. G. Veryasov, 62

Location and Approaches (4120)

Peak Andizhan is located in the crest of the Peredovoy Ridge between the Ak-Buura and Kyrgyz-Ata rivers on the northern slopes of the Kikik-Alay Ridge. Its southern slopes descend to the Kaldyrama River (the eastern tributary of the Kyrgyz-Ata River). A vehicle usually drives from Osh through Naukhat and past the forestry department to the foot of Mount Mazar (see description of Peak 40th Anniversary of the Soviet Army). Mount Mazar and Peak Andizhan stand opposite each other. In other words, the ascent to Peak Andizhan can be made from the vehicle stopping point.

Ascent Route

From the base camp, we start ascending along a grassy slope. The slope is partially covered with juniper forest. We ascend 300-350 m along the grassy slope on the right side of a couloir. This couloir reaches the pre-summit ridge and is visible from the base camp. It is difficult and dangerous to walk along the couloir itself due to the fine scree and potential rockfall. Then, along the ridge, we ascend another 350-400 m on very fragmented rocks and scree to the beginning of the couloir. We ascend along the couloir on coarse scree to a saddle. The ascent path is 90-100 m, with a steepness of 30-35°. The summit is visible from the saddle. On the way to the summit, there are some rocky outcrops, but they can be bypassed on the left. We approach the summit. The exit to the summit itself is along a monolithic rock, where belaying is necessary. The ascent to the summit on the rock is 6-7 m. Steepness is 35-40°. The entire path from the camp to the summit takes 4.5-5 hours. The descent is along the ascent path to the saddle, and then down the couloir on scree.

94. Beketty Eastern - Main. The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 87, 95–99). Length - 1600 m, H - 650 m, time - 6–8 hours. The path from the Kyrgyzata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the Beketty Eastern peak - see route 93. From the Eastern peak, descend 100–120 m down the easy rocks of the South Ridge with two 15–20-meter sport descents to the saddle. Along the occasionally snow-covered talus and rocks of the horizontal ridge of the 250–300-meter saddle, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, then along the snow-covered (cornices possible) talus and rocks of the 100–120-meter ridge to approach the 1st Big Gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the right along the talus slope. Behind it, along the talus ridge, approach the 2nd Big Gendarme. Ascend the sharp, straightforward rocky 80–90-meter ascent (insurance) to the Big Gendarme. From the Eastern peak - 1–1.5 hours. From the Big Gendarme, descend 100–120 m down the straightforward rocky ridge to the saddle. Along the wide ridge of the saddle with several straightforward gendarmes, then along the narrow snowy (cornices possible) ridge to the Eastern Ridge of the Beketty Main peak. Along the 500–600-meter easy talus, occasionally snow-covered (cornices), with small 3–5-meter walls and gendarmes overcome head-on on the Eastern Ridge, and along the 60–80-meter gentle ascent to the peak of Beketty Main. From the Big 2nd Gendarme - 2–2.5 hours. Descent along the South Ridge, through the Kukrniksy pass.

SUIChIKTY

East

Day

65. Karagoy via the South Ridge The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 3.5–4 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac in the Djeljilga gorge, at the entrance to the lateral Ruchyeva cirque — see route 14. From the initial bivouac:

• Turn right and ascend via the right-bank moraine into the Ruchyeva cirque.
• Continue ascending via the right-bank moraine and, after passing the slopes of the LVO peak, approach the saddle of the Karagoy Pass.
• From the cirque — 250–300 m ascent to the right of the Eastern counterfort of the Northern ridge of the Big Ruchyeva peak with a triangular base, along a 30–35° slope composed of small and medium talus, transitioning into multiple couloirs in the central and upper parts.
• Ascend via the middle couloir to the Karagoy Pass. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. The approach to the Karagoy Pass from the Suichikty gorge:
• From the alpine camp, ascend via the left-bank road of the Suichikty river to the kurgan, then to the ruined stone house of geologists.

5.15. 16 23

Ascent Log

Ascent type: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge Peak: Karagoy Height: 4234 m Ascent route: from Suychikty valley via NE ridge Suggested difficulty category: 2A

Route Characteristics

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category ROCK
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alay ridge
3. Summit Kyzkochkan height 4100 m Ascent route from Joljilga valley via the 3rd ridge (eastern slope)
4. Proposed difficulty category

Compiled by: M. Levin, A. Praхов 1st shooting point of photo 1 and so on. PHOTO 1 MAP OF KYRGYZ-ATA GORGE (Kichik-Alay range) Iski-Naukat LESKHOZ R. Kurgan Highway Alpinada 3401

Jashtyk-To Mountain

2A category, 600 m, 40°, 4 people via Jashtyk Pass. March 31, 1981. Tsibulevsky, V. Zhmaev, M. Karpenkov, I. Shchekanov (leader). Kichik-Alay ridge, upper Kyrgyz-Ata valley. Scale: 1 cm = 500 m. Approximately 100 km from Osh city to Iski-Naukat forestry.

Main characteristics table for the route to Kyrgyz-Ata peak via Jashtyk Pass

| Date, time | Section | Group | Average steepness | Distance, m | Difficulty category | Relief type | Relief condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolts |

64. LVO via the East Ridge

Report on the First Ascent to the Peak 3428 m via the Northwest Ridge, Presumably Category 1B, by the Team of the "Freeline" Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club from Essentuki, July 14-15, 2018

Climbing Report Form