Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area - Central Tian-Shan, North Inylchek Glacier
3. First ascent route - Pik Trekhlavy (5504), North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1400 m average steepness of the difficult section - 56° average steepness - length of the difficult section U-UI cat. diff. - 900 m route length - 3000 m

7.16.24. Cat. 4A

Description of the ascent route to Peak 4500 m

"Festival'naya" (from the north, via the pass)

Peak 4500 m is located at the northern tip of the Bayankol ridge, and its eastern slopes descend to the left bank of the Sary-Kaynau River. The peak is situated in a hard-to-reach area of the cirque with very difficult approaches. From the base camp on the green meadow, located on the right bank of the Sary-Kaynau River, it is necessary to cross to the left bank of the named river. Having crossed the river, we head downstream. After 5 km of walking downstream and rounding several spurs extending from the peak and the subpeak "4500", we reach the foot of the ridge. At the exit of a small mudflow, we turn left and begin to ascend. Up to the middle of the slope, which has a total length of about 1 km, the course of the named mudflow leads, and then - medium and small scree. On the ridge, the altimeter shows 3800 m above sea level. Leaving a note on the ridge, we begin the technical work of traversing the peak "4500 m". The first obstacle - a 200 m "gendarme" - required about 3 hours of work. The first 50 m of ascent up the "gendarme" wall are very difficult due to the steepness of the rocks (about 75°), the small number of holds, and cracks suitable for driving pitons. Only 4 rock pitons can be driven in this section. Further, the path becomes somewhat easier, but this is only at first glance. Moving slightly to the right (in the direction of travel), we proceed along a narrow crevice, where the use of piton belay is also difficult. The patches of flowstone covering the ledges are treacherous.

Report

On the First Ascent of Ak-Jaman Peak (4490 m)

via the North-Eastern Wall, Category 4A/4B

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area: Inner Tien Shan, Jamantau Ridge
2. Peak name: Ak-Jaman (4490 m, № 40°54.413′, 74°49.720′ (WGS 84))
3. Route name: via the North-Eastern wall
4. Route difficulty category: proposed 4A/4B
5. Route type: ice climb
6. Route elevation gain: 490 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 660 m. Average slope: 50°. 11 ice pitches up to 70°, Al2–Al3.

REPORT

On the First Ascent of Chongtash East Peak (4553 m)

from the north, 2B category of difficulty

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan
2. Peak name: Chongtash East (4553 m, N 40°54.994′, E 74°5.810′ (WGS 84))
3. Route name: "through the Gates", from the north
4. Category of difficulty: proposed 2B
5. Route nature: snow-ice
6. Route elevation gain: 900 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 1600 m. Average slope: 30°. Six rope lengths of firn/ice up to 50°, AI1–2.

Pas­port of as­cent to Jel Teger­men peak 4570 m.

1. Tian-Shan, Cen­tral part of At-Ba­shi range, Bos­kur­bu tract. Ab­sent in clas­si­fi­ca­tor.
2. Jel Teger­men — 4570 m. Via West­ern couloir and then along South­ern ridge.
3. Pro­posed 3B cat. dif. First as­cent.
4. Com­bined route
5. Height dif­fer­ence — 520 m ac­cord­ing to (GPS). Route length — 800 m. Sec­tions:

• 2B cat. dif.: 600 m, 40–55 de­grees
• 4A cat. dif.: 200 m, 40 de­grees

Ascent via the North Ridge

The summit of Ak-tash is located in the northwestern spurs of the Alay Range, in the upper reaches of the following glaciers:

• to the southwest — Dugoba,
• to the northeast — Ak-Tash,
• to the northwest — Dugoba-Shigou. The Ak-tash summit massif consists of heavily fragmented granite and limestone rocks.

Day One

From the "Dugoba" alpine camp, we proceed along the Dugoba River valley to the confluence of the Ak-Tash and Ulitor rivers (2 hours). At the confluence, the trail forks; the further path lies along the left orographic bank of the Ak-Tash River, bypassing a pronounced rocky massif on the right. The trail leads to a green meadow; after crossing it, we descend to the Surmetash River, and then, traversing the talus and grassy slopes above the left bank of the Ak-Tash River, we reach a canyon-like steep descent to the river (3–3.5 hours from the confluence).

1. Class of technically challenging ascents.
2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Archa-Kanysh Gorge.
3. Krylya-Sovetov Peak (4900 m), via the north-eastern edge.
4. Estimated difficulty category – 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) elevation gain – 800 m; b) length of sections with 4B-5B category difficulty: 280 m; c) average steepness:
   • ascent to the ridge 60°;
   • pre-summit tower 55°.

Ascent Log

I. Class: technical 2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Range 3. Ascent route: Leninets Peak via North face 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1100 m; length of 5-6 difficulty section 925 m; average steepness 60° 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock 22, ice 42, chocks 26 7. Climbing hours: 13 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: none 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge
3. Peak, its height: Leningradets, 5040 m, via North wall Ascent route: 5B (validated route)
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1200 m Average steepness 70° Length of sections:
   • 3–4 category of difficulty — 630 m

Passport

Ascent to the "Bezымянная" peak via the southwest ridge

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Caucasus, Bezengi area, southwest spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 1).
3. "Bezымянная" peak 4050 m, in the spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 2).
4. Proposed category — 3.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1300 m; b) route length — 900–1100 m of snow-ice slope; c) average steepness — 35–45°.