Ascent to the summit "Karaganda"

The geodetic height is 4014 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main Northern ridge. It is situated in the main ridge near the Demekpe pass. A glacier descends from the summit to the north. Its upper part is gentle, but the steepness increases significantly towards the bottom. The north-eastern side is a continuous glacier, which is part of an ice cirque. To the south lies a rocky scree. From the west, there are scree slopes and rocks of moderate difficulty before the summit. Departure at 8:30. At the Demekpe pass by 11:00. From here, the path to the summit begins - eastward along the scree. We reach the ridge. A glacier descends from it to the north, and a snowy-ice cornice to the south. We pass the cornice on the left along the glacier, roped and in crampons. We reach rocks of moderate difficulty. The rocks are covered with snow and ice. Movement with alternating belay. The rock section is about 100 m high, with a steepness of 50–70°. At the summit by 13:00. Descent to the north along easy slopes for 100 m. We cross the glacier to the west and join the ascent route. Further descent follows the ascent path. Base camp by 17:30. The weather during the ascent was very poor. Visibility sometimes disappeared completely. Strong cold wind. Fog. The ascent was made on September 16, 1963. The group consisted of:

Abaya, 1B category via North-West ridge

Route description.

A good trail leads from Tuyuksu alpine camp eastwards through an ancient moraine and further to the spring. From the spring one should head to the moraine along medium and large talus to Abaya glacier. R0 point. From here the path to the summit passes along the glacier to the foot of the summit. Further:

• Turn towards North-West ridge.
• Ascend to the ridge along talus and snow to a characteristic saddle.
• From the saddle follow a combined ridge with alternating belay to the foot of the summit tower.
• Traverse the tower along the path on the left, on snow, to the North-East ridge.
• Further, along the loose rocks with alternating belay on the eastern side —

Route Description

The approach to the route is from the middle part of the Malo-Almatinsky gorge. Turn from the "Vорота Tuyuk-Su" alpine camp into the Chertovo gorge and organize the initial bivouac among the ancient moraine ridges. The ascent begins on the right lateral moraine. Reach the Abay glacier, traverse it towards the rocks. At the foot of the rocks, organize rope teams. Further ascent is from the left side of the rock massif on snow. The slope steepness is not more than 25–30°. After 60–70 m, there is a passage in the rocks, through which you can cross to the right side of the rock massif. Here, the steepness of the snow slope increases to 35–40°, and the ascent goes straight up to the foot of the summit rock tower. This section (450–500 m) is overcome with thorough belaying. The ascent and descent on it must be done before the sun illuminates the slope and softens the snow. Upon reaching the foot of the tower, turn north and after 30–40 m of easy rock climbing, approach a couloir with a steepness of 35–40°. At the end of the season, it can be icy, and step cutting is necessary. After 25–30 m, turn left towards the rocks and ascend to the tower of the north summit with thorough belaying. This is the main summit of Peak Abay. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not more than 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine of the Abay glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 4 am.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

Ascent to the Akgyul summit via the Uraltsev pass, route 2А cat. diff. (fig. 24, 24a). The Akgyul summit is located in the northern part of the Issykteng — Chokhu spur. Route:

• From the Talgar mountaineering camp
• Through the Zelyonaya Polyana
• To the Uraltsev pass Features:
• In the area of the Uraltsev pass, there are many crevasses on the Shokalsky glacier (be careful!)
• A bivouac can be set up on the Uraltsev pass From the Uraltsev pass, go along the main ridge, then turn southeast onto the Issykteng — Chokhu spur.

White Peak (4700 m)

Ascent to the White Peak summit via Akgyul peak, route 2B cat. diff.

From the Talgar alpine camp through Surovyy pass to the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier. Here, overnight stay. The path to the White Peak summit goes through Akgyul peak. From the overnight stay, go to the main ridge via scree. Reach the junction of the ridge with the Issykten-Chokhu spur, turn onto it and along the ridge of the spur approach the foot of Akgyul's summit dome. The ridge has several drops. To the right are ruined rocks. A snowy slope with a steepness of up to 35° leads to the summit dome. Alternate insurance is needed, and at the end of the season, when ice appears, the use of ice screws is possible (2-3 hooks). From Akgyul peak, the path goes along the ridge in a southeast direction, then along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 40-45° and a length of up to 300 m. Crampons and screw insurance are needed. The slope leads to a saddle between Akgyul and White Peak. From the saddle, along a snow-ice ridge with a length of up to 2.5 km. Crevasses are encountered. Insurance is needed. In 2-2.5 hours, the foot of White Peak is reached. The ascent to the summit is along a snowy slope up to 30°. To the left are snowdrifts and cornices. Deviate to the right. In an hour, the summit is reached. A cairn is on the rocks. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Return to the camp via Surovyy pass.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants - up to 25 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac no later than 5:00.

Almaty-Alagir (4223 m)

Ascent from the northwest side — cat. diff. 1B

The summit of Almaty-Alagir is located in the watershed ridge system at the head of the Ozerny gorge and is the highest point in the area. Long, gradually descending ridges stretch to the south and southwest from it. To the north lies a snowy-ice slope, and to the east, the snow cover is interspersed with talus sections. It is more convenient to ascend from the Prokhodnoye valley, from the northwest side. Climbing up the valley, bypass the Alma-Arasan resort (the Big Almaty spur stretches to the right). Before reaching the Prokhodnoy pass, turn left towards the unnamed "3400 m" pass, located between the Almaty-Alagir and Karniznaya peaks. From the latter, a small ridge extends towards the Prokhodnoye valley. Leaving the pass on the left side, reach the moraine of a small glacier descending into the Prokhodnoye valley. The glacier is not steep, intersected here and there by large crevasses. Ahead are the ridge slopes of the Almaty-Alagir peak. Without traversing the entire glacier, turn left. Attention should be paid to the northwest side of the summit, from which rocky ridges descend, separated by wide couloirs. Then, ascend one of the couloirs with a steepness of 40–45°, at the bottom of which lies coarse, loose talus. Exercising caution, ascend to the shoulder of the summit and follow a gentle slope to the top. Descend via the ascent route. The entire ascent takes 6–7 hours. M. T. Pogrebetskiy first reached this summit in 1927. The first ascent from the eastern side was made in 1952 by Almaty climbers K. Menzhulin and A. Maryashev.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bezymyaniy Glacier.

Route Description

The approach to the start of the route is made via the Bogdanovich Glacier to the Komсомольский Pass. In the pass area, there is a starting bivouac. From it, the ascent begins along the northern ridge for 300 m towards the peak of Карлытау. At the very beginning, the ridge is gentle but icy; closer to the peak, the steepness increases to 35°. Here, one should descend to the ridge of the Aristov peak into a lowering referred to as the Aristov Pass. From the Aristov Pass, there is a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right via not very steep snowy ledges. Then, one should approach the summit pinnacle and exit to a saddle via a snowy couloir. The descent is made via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9–10 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: 4–6 people.
2. Starting bivouac: in the area of Komсомольский Pass.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4:

Fig. 11

Move on to the snowy saddle between the North and main peaks of Bogatyry. The route goes along the rocks on the saddle itself. There are cornices on the eastern side (be careful!). To overcome the fourth gendarme, one should drive ice screws into the snowy slope and stretch the handrail. The fifth gendarme is overcome head-on with cutting steps on the icy slope with a steepness up to 70° when approaching its constituent rocks. The rocks are of medium difficulty and are overcome with belay. Descent from the gendarme to a small dent, then to the pre-summit rocks. The rocks of medium difficulty lead to the main peak of Bogatyry. The ascent to the summit itself goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 60° (with running belay). The descent from the main peak goes along the snowy slope with several drops. A gendarme blocking the path is overcome head-on; the rocks are of medium difficulty. Then, the path leads to the saddle between the Central and South peaks of Bogatyry. The ascent to the South peak of Bogatyry goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 45°, and the descent from it goes along the snowy slope no steeper than 40°. The descent leads to the saddle between the South peak of Bogatyry and the peak of Kolesnik, the last object of the traverse route. The peak of Kolesnik is an ice dome, above which three groups of rocks rise. The middle group is the summit. The route to the summit presents no particular difficulties. From the saddle, the ascent to the summit begins with a 100-meter snowy slope (sometimes with aufeis). Further on:

• there are easy and medium rocks of the southwestern ridge
• further to the east, there is a second rocky ridge, which is the highest point of the summit.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru