Route Description

Ascent to the Nameless peak (4000 m above sea level) (Peak "Iriston") 1A category of difficulty. The peak is located in the watershed ridge (between the Genaldon and Chachkhi river basins) connecting the Kazbek firn plateau with the Chach-khokh peak (4100 m). The immediate neighbors of the peak in the ridge are from south to north:

• Ordzhonikidzevskaya railway peak (4300 m)
• Chach-khokh. The first ascent was made on October 25, 1964 from the Chach gorge by a group of the Spartak Council of the DSO in the amount of 7 people led by L. Tabolov. Day 1. The group reaches the village of Gvileti by car, from where it takes no more than 1 hour of walking along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kabakhi and Chachkhi rivers. After crossing the pedestrian bridge over the Kabakhi River and overcoming the steep ascent of the trail, they head along the trail to the right (Chach) gorge. The trail leads to the second bridge, which should be crossed to the left (orographic) bank of the Chachkhi River. Here, on the slope, there are many trails, which, however, all lead to the gate of the Chach gorge (height difference of about 300-400 m). In this area, it is recommended to navigate to a single birch tree growing under the wall of the first "gate", heading higher up the slope. Having overcome the "ram's foreheads" of the "gate" along one of the shelves dividing them, one should:
• go up along the grassy slope to a group of trees,

Severnye Kaidzhany (3969 m)

(Peak of the Kazbek high-mountain region) The summit is located on the north-eastern spur of Peak Spartak (4510 m) (on the Kazbek plateau), where a number of peaks rise: Peak Ordzhonikidze (4005 m); Peak Iriston (3969 m), Chach-khokh (4098 m), Peak "3850", South Kaidzhany (3916 m), North Kaidzhany (3969 m) and Peak 25th anniversary of SKGMI (3865 m). From the city of Ordzhonikidze, the pointed peaks of Kaidzhany are clearly visible against the backdrop of Kazbek's snowy cap. Since 1947, the summit has been repeatedly visited by climbers from Ordzhonikidze. The most popular routes are from the south from the Chach gorge and along the North ridge. Description of the ascent route to North Kaidzhany from the south 1B – P-A cat. difficulty. Day 1. From the city of Ordzhonikidze, they drive for 1 hour to the village of Gvileti, from where they ascend along a wide pack trail to the confluence of the Amali and Chach-khi rivers (1 hour walk). After crossing the rickety bridge over the Amali River and overcoming the steep ascent of the trail, they turn right into the Chach gorge along the trail. The trail crosses to the left (orographic) bank of the Chach-khi River, where it is poorly defined. Gradually climbing higher up the slope, they reach the "sheep's foreheads". Having overcome the "sheep's foreheads" along one of the shelves dividing them, they need to move up the grassy slope under the rocks, where the trail is well-trodden. Moving along the rocks, they reach the shoulder forming the 1st "gates" of the gorge. From the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates" is 1 hour 30 minutes walk. The "sheep's foreheads" are passed with caution, with gymnastic belay. Along the trail, traversing grassy slopes and a number of scree couloirs, they reach the second "gates" in 50 minutes, which are a rocky defile in the river floodplain.

Description of the ascent route to the summit Severnaia Kaidzhany via the North Ridge, category 2A. Day 1. From the village Ordzhonikidze to the village Verkhnii Lars via the Military Georgian Road (32 km) - about an hour's drive. Within the village, a small left tributary - Belaya Rechka - flows into the Terek River. You need to move west along the gorge of this stream. The trail steeply winds its way up the left bank, gaining height. After 1.5-2 hours of walking, you exit the forest zone and after another hour, you reach a wide trough in the upper reaches of the gorge, where you can set up a bivouac. You can also organize a bivouac an hour's walk further up the gorge, having climbed the high hills of the ancient terminal moraine of the glacier. Day 2. Early start. Move in the direction of the canyon, compressed by "ram's foreheads". It takes about an hour to walk to the canyon across the scree slopes. The canyon can be traversed along the left side (simple climbing on "ram's foreheads" in a rope team) or along the right side, traversing the scree slopes of the East Ridge of S. Kaidzhany. After about 200 meters, you enter a more gentle part of a wide trough-like couloir, which the canyon leads to. Having walked 150 m along the bottom of the "trough" and across simple, ruined rocks, you reach the shoulder of the North Ridge of the summit. A snowy 100-meter ridge leads to a 40-50-meter rocky ascent with a steepness of about 60°. The rocks are extremely ruined (shales), and the protection is hook-based (pitons with long blades). The ascent leads to a 100-meter sharp shale ridge, steeply rising (45°) towards the summit of Severnaia Kaidzhany. The ridge is partially covered with snow, and the rocks are very fragile.

The descent from the trough to the Chach gorge takes an hour. The descent from the bivouac to the village of Gvileti takes 2–2.5 hours. From here, it is possible to return to the city of Ordzhonikidze by car in 1.5 hours.

Equipment recommended for a group of 4 people

1. Main ropes 30 m — 2 pieces.
2. Rock hooks — 10 pieces.
3. Group carabiners — 7 pieces.
4. Hammers — 2 pieces.

Description of the ascent route to South Kaidzhany from the South

1B - P - A cat. diff. Day 1. The route of the 1st day and the ascent to the trough of the Kaidzhany glacier completely coincides with the previous description. The bivouac location is in front of the "gates" of the Chach gorge. Day 2. Departure no later than 5:00. They go up the slope, leaving the mentioned couloir on the left. After the grassy slopes, they climb up the scree, climb onto the hill of the ancient terminal moraine of the glacier, and enter the glacier cirque.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, (2.8), Ardon River gorge
3. Peak, route: Kariu-Khokh (3438 m) from the south via the NW ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1200 m. Total route length: 2300 m. Average slope of the route: 33°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 6 pcs., chocks — 8 pcs.
7. Number of travel hours/days: 10/1

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Kormilina via the Northwest Ridge, category 2A, by the team of the North Ossetian Rescue Squad of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia, from July 5 to 6, 2019.

1. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Rock Ridge, Classification section number — 2.8.
2. Kuardjin East (2600 m); via the South wall of the East ridge.
3. Proposed 3A category; first ascent.
4. Route character — rock climbing.
5. Route height difference – 320 m. Length of the wall part – 415 m. Total route length – 715 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 5 m. Steepness of key sections 80–90°.
6. Pitons left on the route – 5.
7. Team's working hours – 8 hours; days – 2.

To the Alpinism Federation of Russia.

The Classification Commission of the FSR of Alania sends a report on the first ascent made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz to the peak Kursantov (3915 m) via the Southwest Ridge on August 29, 2011. The route taken is preliminarily assessed as 1B rock.

REPORT

On the first ascent to peak Kursantov (3915 m) via the Southwest Ridge. Approximately 1B rock. Made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on August 29, 2011. Under the leadership of Levkovsky Yuri Vasilyevich. address: 362035 RSO-Alania, Vladikavkaz, pr. Kosta — 273/69 (uvl53@yandex.ru)

Ascent Passport

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing

Report

On the first ascent of v. Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m) via the Western ridge. Approximately 1B rock. Completed by the mountaineers of the Mountain Club SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on May 23, 2009. Under the leadership of Levkovsky Yuri Vasilyevich.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsadzhitudon river valley, 2.8
3. Peak, route: Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m), Western ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock, first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation of Kharkiv Region

Report

On the ascent of the Kharkiv region team to the summit of Kara-Kaya Western.

Via the Central buttress of the Southwest wall. Presumably 5B category of difficulty. First ascent. Zakalodnii A. V. — team leader Poltavets E. I. Kotlyar R. S. Eremeev A. A. Timko E. N.