1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Region — Pamir, Ishkashimsky Range.
3. Shater, 5568, center of the NW wall.
4. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1318 m, length — 1680 m, length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty — 920 m. Average steepness of the main part of the wall — 82°, average steepness of the wall up to the ridge — 73°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 405/197 bolts: 160/6 chocks: 352/174 ice screws: 19

II­­ A C II­­ O P T

1. Climbing category: high-altitude technical 2. Climbing region: Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley, Ishkashim Range
2. Peak Shatyor, 5568 m, northwest wall (route
3. I. Grigorenko — Prigody)
4. Difficulty category: 6B cat., second ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1368 m route length — 1655 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 715 m, including 6 cat. — 300 m, steepness of the main part of the route — 68° (4200–5210)
6. Pitons driven: Rock Shoulder Pitons Nuts Ice 139–37 5–4 35
7. Team's walking hours: 47 and 5 days

1. Climbing category - technical
2. Climbing area - South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Climbing peak - p. 4695 m (Inzin), route via western edge of northern slope.
4. Proposed category - 3B
5. Climbing characteristics - elevation gain 1050 m, average steepness 60°.
6. Pitons driven - rock - 18
7. Total hours on the move - 9 hours + 3 hours 30 minutes
8. Team name - Sports group of Kharkov sports committee expedition.
9. Surname, name and patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification.
   1. Matveev Yu.I. - leader, 2nd sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class: Technical
2. Ascent Region: South-West Pamir
3. Ascent Route: Peak 5080 m with ascent via the hanging glacier of the North-West Ice Wall.
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • height difference — 1425 m
   • average steepness — 50°
   • length of complex sections — 200 m – 5A cat. diff.

1. Climbing category - technical.
2. Climbing area - South-West Pamir. 46 pc uf 4160518/5-76 pr Daybog
3. Ascent route - peak 5243 m via the South-West bastion of the Western wall, ascending to peak 5080 m through the VEZ pass from the Vez-Dara gorge.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference - 1345 m, average steepness - 67°, length of complex sections - 365 m.
5. Pitons driven: rock - 114 pcs, ice - 6 pcs.
6. Duration - 30 hours.
7. Number of nights on the route - 2 bivouacs in a tent.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Shahdarin Range
3. Summit — peak 5215 m («PARAKHT»), route via the southern 1100 m counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference, average steepness 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 6 pcs.
7. Number of travel hours — 9 h 45 min
8. Team name — Sports group of the Kharkov Sports Committee expedition

Nartoscheme Vezdara

10–3 Pamir

scale 1 cm — 2 km

PASSPORT

of the ascent made in the USSR Championship in mountaineering 1975

1. Ascent class — traverse.
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir.
3. Ascent route — peak 5243 via the western wall, peaks 5085–4927–4670–4700–5158–5150, 4980, 4495–4960–5214 Akmu–5558 Shpil–5527 Tri Bashni.
4. Ascent characteristics height difference of peak 5243 m — 1100 m, average steepness 80°, length of complex wall sections 770 m, length of complex sections of the entire traverse 1490 m.
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 892, ice — 108, bolt — 2.
6. Number of climbing hours — 173.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Central Pamir, Shahdara Range.
3. Peak 5432 via the counterfort of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1210 m, route length: 1510 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 325 m. Average steepness of the route: 54°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 96 (8), chocks 73 (6), ice screws 4
7. Team's total climbing hours: 26.5, and days – 3.

Ascent

to the peak Russia via the Southeast ridge (first ascent) by the team of Moscow City Council of the DSO “Spartak”

Central Pamir, 1972

Map of the area

From August 1 to 10, 1972, the Central Council of the Spartak society conducted an expedition of climbers in the area of Peak Communism. Due to a delay in the helicopter, the expedition found itself in a very difficult situation, as the valleys of the Muksu and Sauk-sai rivers with numerous tributaries presented a serious obstacle even for a caravan, let alone the transportation of goods by people. The caravan did not have the necessary number of horses, and time was clearly insufficient. Transporting five hundred kilograms of food and equipment by horse to the confluence of the Bivachny and Fedchenko glaciers for an expedition of over fifty people did not change the situation much. The base camp on the Bivachny glacier (3900 m) was only established on July 24, and the route planned for the USSR championship had to be changed. A new route, never before attempted, was chosen - the Southeast ridge of Peak Russia (6852 m).

Brief characteristics of the area

The Central Pamir is bounded to the north by the Muksu River and to the south by the Bartang River. To the east, the area is bounded by the Zulumart range, and to the west by the western spurs of the Petra Pervogo and Darvaz ranges, as well as the Pyanj River near Khorog. The relief of the Central Pamir is heavily dissected. It is home to: