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Route Description: ЮВкф.
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Latsа (3996 m) via the southeast counterforce, difficulty category 4B, climbed by a group of climbers in 1980.
Ascent Passport
- ASCENT CLASS — rock
- ASCENT AREA — Main Caucasus Range between GARVASH and DZHANTUGAN passes
- PEAK, ROUTE — LATZGA (3996 m) via south-eastern counterfort
- EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 4B
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — rock, via counterfort, height difference — 455 m, average steepness 75°
- NUMBER OF PITS HAMMERED — 22 rock anchors, for belay
- NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS — from the start of the route to the summit 12.5 h
- NUMBER OF OVERNIGHT STAYS — no comfortable places on the route, one tent can be set up at I and II control sections
- ASCENT LEADER: Novikov S.A. — Pr
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Report on the ascent of the Altai Regional Sports Committee team to the Belukha peak via the North-West face in 1996, category 5B complexity.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Belukha (V), 4506 m via the right part of the northwest wall (3rd passage, approximately 5B cat. sl.) by the team of the Altai Regional Sports Committee. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class, Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996 year
Passport
- Ice and snow class
- Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem valley
- Belukha (V) summit — 4506 m via the right part of the NW wall, combined route
- Proposed — 5B cat. sl., 3rd passage
- Height difference: 1306 m, total length — 1800 m
Route Description: центр. кф. СЗ стены
Report on the first ascent of Chon-Tor peak (4180 m) via the NW wall with a detailed description of the route and the team's tactics.
V. Chon-Tor 4180 m
Ascent Passport
- Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, 7.4
- Peak — Chon-Tor 4180 m, via the central buttress of the NW wall, "The Spirit of Adventure"
- Proposed — 6A cat. diff., first ascent
- Route characteristic — rock
- Route sections characteristic Total elevation gain — 892 m Wall section elevation gain — 638 m
Route Description: З гребню
Report on the ascent of Peak NPI (3423 m) via the western ridge, describing a Category 1B complexity route and the approaches to it.
Report
on the ascent to the summit 3423 m (peak NPI) via the western ridge from Otryog pass, presumably category 1B, first ascent
Ascent Passport
- Region: Western Caucasus, Aксаут region, Bolshaya Marka valley, section 2.2 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
- Summit: 3423 m (peak NPI), via the western ridge.
- Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Height difference: 150 m (total – 650 m) Route length (technical part): 250 m. Length of sections with category III difficulty: 100 m.
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit along the slope along the Tana-dan river, the ascent duration is 5-7 hours, the difficulty is characterized by steep slopes and the presence of snow.
The ascent to the summit begins from Pakhan Taymazin along the slope along the edge of the Tana-dan river to the entrance to Mount Kubye (2345 m) to the Tana-dere area (3-4 hours). There are parking spaces, if not blocked. From the area's edge to the yakutap's stop, the entrances are on the right along the area's path, the entrance is on the left along the edge between the Tana-dere area and the yakutap's stop and along it to the level of the hourly area. From Pokhno Taymazin 6th from the blockage on the sanad (help? and 6) 6 evenly between (equal and voemunoya Aabodol). We overcome along the even slope, the ascent is steep along the even slope to the north-eastern edge of the rebe. The descent is intentionally done with a rope and rappelling. Along the stops, the entrance to the redopind is in a state of even-redo-boro verunichnogo kulara. We overcome the redopind along the even slope, the ascent is along the amk-nole-nije rebo to the summit along the emame-provad even-dobam even-khon kru-minol 40°–45°. The descent is 6 as hand-held emy-re-ned and emparakhol veres redopyd and redobor kponovs. From the blockage on the pre-vine ekhakh to the veruin-kho 5-4 hours. The descent along the nylu nabse-na to Pokhno Taymazin 6-7 hours.
Recommendations for the climb
- In the summer, epegm climb with a guide.
- Kanuvem-benxoni composition of the group should not be aepanu-ni-buan-mkhs.
- Dpu good weather, movement is better organized with ssoka reanuka Tana- eme and bu-od-os parno umpram, edepukhmts voskhazdenie with enych-em x povehe.
- On the climb, there are khouxxi, redopydos, 5-4 red khpnoho and op. elakakh
Route Description: левому СЗ ребру
Description of the ascent to the summit of Laboda (4314 m) via the Northwest ridge, a 5th category of difficulty route, made in 1982 by a team of climbers led by Zaev Z.F.
Ascent Log
to the main peak of the Laboda massif (4314 m) via the Northwest ridge (left edge) 5B cat. diff.
- Technical category
- Main Caucasus Range, Digoria region, Laboda massif.
- Laboda peak 4314 m.
- The route is combined.
- Pitons hammered: rock — 132 (with stoppers) and 4 drilled; ice — 21; for creating ITO — 3.
- Number of climbing hours spent on ascent — 39, on descent — 6.
- Two overnight stays:
- On the ridge before the Utug rock pinnacle — sitting;
Route Description: Ю стене и ЮЗ гребню
Report on the ascent to Mezennaya Zapadnaya peak via the south wall and south-west ridge, category 4A difficulty.
Report
On the ascent (second ascent) to the summit of Meshchena Western via the southern wall and southwestern ridge, presumed to be category 4A, by the MAC "Freeline" mountaineering team from November 16, 2019, to November 17, 2019.
I. Ascent Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Klindukhov Maxim Olegovich, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participant | Otkidchev Pavel Anatolyevich, 3rd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Motienko Nikolai Ilyich, CMS, instructor 1st category |
| 1.4 | Organization | MAC "Freeline" |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object |
Route Description: С гребню с запада
First ascent description of the Muldzugi-Barzond peak (3064 m) via North ridge from the West, category 1B, in Digoria, Skalisty Range.
Ascent Passport
- Digoria, Rocky Range, Classification section number — 2.6.
- Muldzugi-Barzond (3064 m); from the West via the Northern ridge.
- Proposed category: 1B; first ascent.
- The route is of a rocky nature.
- Height difference of the route — 350 m. Route length is about 900 m. Average steepness:
- main part of the route: up to 60°.
- entire route: 30°.
- Insurance on the route is provided by rock formations.
Route Description: с юга по В гребню
Guidelines for ascending to the summit with a description of the necessary preparation and equipment for the climb.
Ascent time 5–6 hours.
Route recommendation.
When passing through the glacier to the saddle, it is necessary to keep a close watch on the stones falling from the slopes of Nakhabita. Melon at any time of day.
- When making the ascent in one day, the group should have good physical and technical training. Leave the foot of "Nakhabita" not later than 4:00 am. If the group's training is weak, they should overnight on the saddle.
- The group should have: crampons, ice axes, main ropes, 4–5 ice screws and 2–3 rock pitons, pieces of rope for 2–3 slings.
Route Description: траверс
Description of the combined route category 3B to the top of Yuzhny Sugan through Lozhny Sugan in the Central Caucasus.
- Sugan False — South (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of False Sugan is described in route 46. From the summit, descend via simple and moderately difficult rocks of the South ridge to the col. From the col, traverse via simple and moderately difficult, heavily destroyed rocks on the left side of the ridge ("live" stones — piton belay) bypass the rock "saw" consisting of several sharp gendarmes and reach the col. Then:
- overcome the I gendarme directly via moderately difficult rocks;
- descend to the col below the summit ascent of South Sugan;
- from the col, via steep, moderately difficult rocks of the North ridge (piton