ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — wall ascent
2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus
3. Ascent to v. Dombay Glavny via the southern wall (4046 m) category 6B complexity. Korotkov's route.
4. Wall section height difference — 800 m total route length — 1660 m section lengths:
   • category 6 — 220 m
   • category 5 — 720 m
5. Average steepness of the wall section — 70–80°

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR alpine climbing championship in 1973 I category ascent — technically difficult 2. Region of ascent — Western Caucasus 3. Ascent route — Main Dombay-Ulgen 4040 m, South wall 4. Characteristics of ascent — height difference 1040 m

• average steepness 63° Length of difficult sections 210 m

5. Pitons hammered in: rock 121 ice — screw 1

Description of the first ascent of the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif from the Western peak to the saddle with ascent to the Western peak via the NW wall

5B category of complexity July 12–17, 1962 The Dombay region, where the Dombay-Ulgen massif is located, lies in the border zone between the Western and Central Caucasus, so it combines the nature of:

• the humid warm Western Caucasus;
• the more continental Central Caucasus. The territory of the region is part of the Teberda State Reserve. The climate of the Dombay region depends on the impact of several factors, the most important of which are:
• year-round influence of the western air transfer (warm and humid air masses);

Ascent Passport

1. Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
2. Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
6. Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.

The first championship of the alpinism club "Vertikal", rock climbing category.

Report

On ascending v. DOMBAI ZAPADNY (4036 m) via the left part of the western wall. Team from Togliatti branch of the "Vertikal" club. First ascent. Team captain: Team coach: 1989 Route scheme in UIAA symbols. Scale 1:2000

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Западный Домбай–Ульген via the western edge (approximately 5B cat. diff.) The ascent was made from August 17 to 20, 1973, by a group consisting of: V. Sukharev — leader V. Neborak A. Volkov Alibek — 1973 g.

Домбай–Ульген West

MAIN CHARACTERISTICS TABLE OF THE SECTION

Date	Designation	Average steepness	Length	Relief character
28 August 1980	0–1	35	200	Sheep's backs
Entered the route at 7:00	1–2	45	300	Ridge
	2–3	80	40	Internal corner
	3–4	70	240	Counterfort
Set up for the night at 18:00	4–5	45	80	Ridge, shelves
29 August 1980	5–6	90	40	Wall
Started the route at 8:00	6–7	50	30	Narrow ridge

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombai-Ulgen Western (4036 m), via the bastion of the southern wall.
5. 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length – 1450 m; length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty – 360 m; average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge (excluding talus) – 72° (3070–3950); start of the route (“claw”) — summit – 55° (3000–4036).
7. Pitons hammered (including in the denominator for IT): rock 70/27, ice 0/0, bolt 0/0, anchor 155/51

Passport

1. Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
2. Dombai-Ulgen Western, via the bastion (bastion) of the southern wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Height difference: 1036 m. Route length — 1450 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 230 m, 6th category of difficulty — 130 m; Average steepness: main part of the route from the base of the wall to the ridge (excluding the talus hollow) — 72° (3070–3950).

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombay-Ulgen Western (4036 m), through the center of the Triangle of the southern wall.
5. Proposed 6B category difficulty, first ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length — 1690 m; length of sections 5–6 category difficulty — 605 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (Triangle South wall) — 84°;