49. Traverse of the Gadyl - Bashkara ridge (O. Aristov's route, category 4A, fig. 29, 30, 31). The path from the Djantugan alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Gadyl peak is described in route 144. From Gadyl, traverse along the simple, partially ruined rocks of the long, jagged, almost horizontal, snow-covered ridge, bypassing all the gendarmes on the left, to reach the South shoulder of Bashkara peak. From the shoulder, rappel, then descend along the simple ridge to the saddle. Further, along the snowy ridge, exit under the 2nd gendarme. Bypass the gendarme along the ledges on the left (belay!). Then, along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge, overcoming the 1st gendarme directly, ascend to the summit of Bashkara. From the Gadyl peak, 3 hours. Descent along the Northeast ridge (see route 142). Duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 4 m, rock pitons - 6-8, ice pitons - 3-4, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites - on the platforms on the left side of the main ridge (see also routes 142, 144).

Peak GER­MO­GE­NO­VA, 3343 m via 3rd ridge, cat. cl. 2B, climbing route Bivouac on "Rusty Rocks" (Ry­zhiye skaly). It takes 2 hours to walk from AUSB to dzhan­tug­an. From the bivouac site, we head under the first snowpatch on the right, which is quite steep and descends from the northwest ridge of the summit. After ascending the snowpatch to the ridge, we proceed along the scree and severely damaged rocks to reach the beginning of a distinct ridge. From here to the snowy saddle under the summit tower, there are various possible routes. If the firn is in good condition, a significant part of the rocks can be bypassed on the left while wearing crampons, which saves a lot of time. However, usually, one has to ascend directly through the rocks. The rocks are mostly of medium difficulty, with insurance provided by выступы (rocky ledges); there are sections of damaged rocks. Deviations to the southern side of the ridge (up to 20–40 m) are possible where deemed expedient. On the snowy saddle, an overnight stay is possible; there is water. From here, the summit tower is circumvented on the right, from the southern side. We ascend to the summit ridge to the left of the cairn. The descent follows the ascent route. Approximate time calculation:

1. From "Rusty Rocks" to reaching the ridge — 1–1.5 hours.
2. Ascending to the snowy saddle — 5–8 hours.
3. Ascending to the summit — 1.5–2.5 hours.
4. Descending via the ascent route — from 6 to 9 hours. «Tia­ney»

I. Climbing category - technical 2. North spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Germogenova via the left part of the N wall 4. Proposed category: 3A 5. Route description: snow-ice, height difference (from the saddle) - 423 m, average steepness of the wall section - 46° 6. Number of protection points - 36 (ice screws) 7. Total climbing time - 6 hours 8. Team leader: Laptev Alexander Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports Team members:

• Ivanov G.A., Candidate Master of Sports

II AS II ORT

I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Pik Germogenova, 3993 m, via N wall 4. Proposed 4A cat. dif. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 155 m Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Trekking hours — 6. 8. No overnight stays.

May 12, 1949 Sports Society “Lokomotiv” Group

The group consisted of Garf (climbing category), Marupin, Baldin, Mikhailov, Povarnin, Radovskaya, and Nekrasova. After an overnight stay at the “Lokomotiv-Tuva” hut, also known as the “Green Hotel,” they departed at 5:00 AM to ascend Peak Germogenova via a new route. The path follows along the right (orographically) moraine of the Bashkara glacier until it reaches the cirque. The cirque is traversed in a northwest direction, [illegible, possibly omitted] to reach the base of the couloir descending from the saddle between Peak Germogenova and Cheget-Kara-Bashi. They had to overcome a small icefall, which was easily bypassed on the right. The group reached a small glacial lake and took a short rest. It was 7:00 AM, and they were at the base of the couloir from the saddle between Peak Germogenova and Cheget-Kara-Bashi. As they ascended the avalanche cones, they quickly gained altitude via the couloir, which had a gradient of about 30° in its lower section and increased to about 50° in its upper section. The couloir is quite wide (60–70 m²) and covered with good firn. It is the main route for all avalanches and rockfalls coming from the slopes of Peak Germogenova and Cheget-Kara-Bashi. A deep avalanche groove runs through the middle of the couloir; however, the avalanches are so powerful that they overflow the right groove, affecting a significant part of the slope.

REPORT

on the first ascent of p. GERMOGENOVA via the North face tentatively Cat. diff. 3B protocol № 564 p. 4 dated October 28, 1986

Passport

I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. p. Germogenova, 3993 m, according to S V Caucasus 4. Proposed category: 4A. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 4th category difficulty — 155 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Number of ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Moving time — 6 hours. 8. Without overnight stays.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: rock climb
2. Ascent area: Kabardino-Balkaria, Baksan River basin, upper reaches of
   • Kamyk-Su River
3. Peak, route: Gnitche-Tyrnyauz, 3555.6 m, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 650 m
   • total route length — 1000 m
   • average steepness of the route — 50°
6. Number of placements: 4

276. Ascent via the Southeast Ridge (rocky route, V. Logvinova, category III, fig. 32, 39). From the Gulskie Ploshchadki (point 249), follow the glacier to the snow patch descending from the deepest saddle of the Southeast Ridge of Gульба peak. Here, turn right and along the left side of the snowy slope, alongside the rocks of the Southwest counterfort, approach the saddle. Before reaching the saddle, turn left and ascend the snowy slope, then a simple rocky couloir for 150–200 m to a connecting ridge left and above the first gendarme of the Southeast Ridge of Gульба peak. From the connecting ridge, turn left and ascend steep, heavily fragmented rocks

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |