
- Ascent via the Southeast Ridge (rocky route, V. Logvinova, category III, fig. 32, 39). From the Gulskie Ploshchadki (point 249), follow the glacier to the snow patch descending from the deepest saddle of the Southeast Ridge of Gульба peak. Here, turn right and along the left side of the snowy slope, alongside the rocks of the Southwest counterfort, approach the
saddle. Before reaching the saddle, turn left and ascend the snowy slope, then a simple rocky couloir for 150–200 m to a connecting ridge left and above the first gendarme of the Southeast Ridge of Gульба peak.
From the connecting ridge, turn left and ascend steep, heavily fragmented rocks (belay) of the Southeast Ridge. Traverse the second gendarme's peak via simple rocks on the left and continue up steep, simple rocks («loose» stones, belay) of the Southeast Ridge to below the third gendarme, which is traversed via simple rocks (belay) on the right. Beyond the gendarme, reach a connecting ridge on the Southeast Ridge. From here, traverse with an ascent via simple rocks on the left the fourth gendarme and reach the next connecting ridge. From the connecting ridge:
- descend 10–12 m down steep rocks on the right side (belay);
- then traverse 120–150 m along the shelves on the right side.
From the shelves, ascend rocks of medium difficulty (crux, «loose» stones, pitons):
- first, 15–20 m up-left along the wall;
- then 15–20 m up a crack to a ledge;
- further, 20–30 m along an edge-couloir to the Southeast Ridge.
From here, follow easy rocks of the 60-meter Southeast Ridge with a slight dip to reach the summit of Gульба. 8–10 hours from the initial bivouac.