PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Pamir-Alai. Fann Mountains. Imat valley
3. "Stupenka" peak
4. Proposed 2B cat. first ascent
5. Height difference 250 m. Length of sections 3 cat. - 45 m 2 cat. - 250 m
6. 4 pitons driven, 10 chocks placed.
7. Duration - 2.5 hours
8. Team: Baykovsky Yu. V. MS

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

From the base camp, descend to the confluence of the Ak-su and Kara-su rivers and cross two bridges to a large meadow. It takes 1 hour from the base camp. Then, proceed up the right gorge along the scree slopes of the Northeast ridge. Exit through a steep scree couloir to the saddle of the Northeast ridge under the base of the Northeast wall. Here, a tent can be set up on a scree shelf. It takes 3 hours from the base camp. Map of the area. Route diagram. In UIAA symbols on p. Atabekova (4437) via N.E. wall 4A cat. diff. (landmark).

The approach to the route is via an open grassy slope that leads to the central buttress of the Western wall of Duktarch (3800 m). The movement on the route begins to the left of the buttress along the "ram's foreheads" that lead to the ridge.

• R4–R1: "ram's foreheads" overgrown with lichen, 220 m, 30°, III. II
• R1–R2: along inclined shelves upwards to the right, exit to the L_в ridge (φ 40 m, 40°, IJ
• R2–R4: up the ridge, approach to the first control cairn, 80 m, I5–45°, III–IJ
• R4–R2: up the ridge, approach under the overhang, 85 m, 35–70°, III–IJ
• R7–R2: bypassing the overhang to the right of the ridge along the wall (rockfall hazard), 25 m, 80°, J
• P₂–P₂: transition to the left side of the ridge, up the chimney (rockfall hazard), 20 m, 80°, J
• P₃–P₄: exit to the second control cairn along inclined slabs, 40 m, 75°, IJ
• R₁₀–R₄: up the ridge, 40 m, 50°, III
• P₄–R₁₁: along an inclined slab exit to the inner corner, 30 m, 45°, III

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

2021

Report

On the First Ascent

to the summit of ShaitanKhana (Kotin Peak) 4521 m via the route on the left inner corner of the western wall, 5B category of complexity, by the team from St. Petersburg, from July 31, 2021, to August 3, 2021. 2021

I. Climbing Passport

From the base camp along Ak-kem lake to the right up a steep grassy slope into Ak-okk gorge (1 h) and further towards Burevestnik pass. Past two lakes, leaving the icefall descending from Ak-okk peak on the left, exit to the moraine in its upper part. Total time to reach the starting point — 2.5 h. The route starts in the same way as to per. Burevestnik.

Gro­ma 25 cm. 2 mi­be­re:

• 800
• 1000
• 30
• 300
• 4000

10. 1000 res­se­mo­tseo, K. Akt­au­e 11, 12. 1125, 1125, 112. 112.85 r. Section R0–R1. Straight ridge 150 m. 40°. Section R1–R2. Ridge 300 m · 20°. Section R2–R3. 1st gendarme — key section. Two walls, through cracks and rocks 7–8 m., 80°. Total length of the section is 100 m., steepness 45°. 5 m. descent by

Наи Тарасевича (3450) 3А cat. 4, diff. 10А steepness 400,686 n.p., 500,45 cat. 4,5 000 4. ro­bu­ce, C, fe­n­cu­ret­ted, 10. uce­nur, r. Пу­сан­ц 22/8–88 г. The ap­proach be­gins from the campsites on Lake Yak­kem. The trail goes:

• along the lake shore,
• then along the Ak­kem river, cross­ing it in the mid­dle part. It takes 2.5–3 hours to reach the glacier tongue. Cross­ing the Ak­kem glacier to the other side to the left (orographically) slope. Up along the clean brook on the mo­rena - ascent to the hang­ing val­ley of PF glacier. From the Ak­kem glacier tongue to the firn line in the PF cirque, it takes 2 hours to ap­proach. On the right - a rocky bastion of Vasily Tarasevich peak, on the left - an icy panzer of Nikolai Rerikh peak.

11.51 122

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Region Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem gorge.
3. V. Tarasevich right cf. SE wall. 3500 m.
4. Proposed 5A cat. diff.
5. Height difference 550 m, length 780 m. Average steepness 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock 4, chocks 32.
7. Climbing hours (from bivouac on the stream flowing from the circus and to bivouac) 14 h.

1. Rock climbing.
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge.
3. Classified as 2A for route category modification.
4. Height difference 450 m, length 1900 m.
5. Moving time 8.5 hours from the camp under Boris peak.
6. Mokhova V.M. 1st sports category. Belyaev P.A. 3rd sports category. Vinnikov K.E. 1st sports category. Egorov L.M. 3rd sports category.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class: Ice climb.
2. Ascent area: Altai. Katunsky ridge.
3. Peak Razdel'naya from the north, height 3556 m, snow-ice route.
4. Expected difficulty category: 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 750 m, average slope 25–30°.
6. Pitons: 3 ice screws for belaying.
7. Number of climbing hours: II–12.
8. Ascent is made from camp to camp without overnight stay.
9. Climbers: