REPORT

ON ASCENDING THE PEAK 100-LETIIA OTECHESTVENNOGO ALPINISMA VIA THE CENTER OF THE SOUTH FACE, 6A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE TEAM OF UAL MOUNTAIN CLUB, FROM August 30, 2023 TO August 31, 2023. Moscow

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Team Leader	Kergin Ivan Vasilievich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants	Bobrinskiy Konstantin Igorevich, 1st sports rank Chikin Artem Borisovich, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of the Coach	Yakovenko Alexander Nikolaevich
1.4	Organization	MC "UAL"

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Rowaling Kang Shar 6645 m, proposed 6A cat. sl., for the period from October 20, 2023 to October 23, 2023.

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader, date of birth	Koshilenko Yuri Vladimirovich, Honored Master of Sports in Alpinism, September 23, 1963
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants, date of birth	Lonchinsky Alexey Sergeevich, Master of Sports in Alpinism, October 1, 1982

Russian Mountaineering Championship. Altitude Class. August 2011

Report

Combined team of FASiL St. Petersburg on Great Trango Tower (6237 m) via the bastion of the Northwest Wall. Route "Parallel World". First ascent. Proposed category complexity 6B (VI+, 7b, A3). Karakoram. Pakistan. Team leader: Kopteva M.V. Team coaches: Chapliński I.O., Kapitanov O.V. St. Petersburg, 2011

Climbing Passport

1. Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier area.
2. Peak - Great Trango Tower (Southwest), 6237 m. Via the bastion of the Northwest Wall.

Passport

1. Class — rock climbing category of the 1998 Russian Alpinism Championship
2. Alps — France, Mont Blanc massif
3. Peak — Grandes Jorasses, pointe Walker (4184 m)
4. Route — 6B category of difficulty, Direkt de Ametue (conditional rating –4.0)
5. Length — 1420 m
6. Length of wall section — 1420 m
7. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1100 m including 6 category of difficulty — 480 m
8. Height difference — 1180 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Alps, Mont Blanc massif
3. Grand Capucin (3838 m) — via the center of the West face
4. Complexity category — 6B. W. Bonatti route
5. Height difference — 450 m. of which: rock part — 350 m. Length — 720 m, incl. rock part (after traverse) — 420 m. Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 330 m,

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Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area: Dolomite Alps (Italy), Marmolada massif (Marmolada)
2. Summit name: Marmolada Punta Rocca (Marmolada Punta Rocca, 3309 m) Route name: via the center of the South wall (Vinatzer route)
3. Route difficulty: 6A, approximate
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Route elevation gain: 800 m Route length: 1085 m

Ascent Log

1. Region – Alps, Switzerland, Zermatt.
2. Peak – Matterhorn 4478 m. Via the left part of the north face.
3. Assessed grade – 6B, variation of the Polish Route (ED2/3)
4. Nature of the route – combined

5. Route Characteristics:

Total elevation gain – 1280 m. Main section elevation gain – 810 m. Route length – 2000 m. Length of 6B sections – 370 m, 5B – 705 m.

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Sierra-Nevada Mountains (Yosemite National Park, California, USA).
3. El Capitan peak, South-West wall (Wyoming Sheep Ranch route).
4. Proposed difficulty category 6B.
5. Height difference — 810 m, route length — 1012 m (wall), length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1012 m, of which 6 category — 906 m, average steepness of the route — 95°
6. Used means for belaying and I.T.O. (in the denominator): | Rock Climbing Hooks | Placement Elements | Bolts for I.T.O. | Sky(cam)-hooks | |:--------------------|:--------------------|:-----------------|:---------------| | 73 / 73 | 433 + 16* / 430 | 31* / 31 | 169 |

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Sierra Nevada Mountains (Yosemite National Park, California, USA).
3. El Capitan peak, South-West wall (Atlantic Ocean Wall route).
4. Proposed category of complexity 6B cat. sl.
5. Height difference — 720 m, route length — 1007 m (wall), length of sections 5–6 cat. sl. — 907 m, including 6 cat. sl. — 707 m, average steepness of the route — 91°.
6. Used means for insurance and I. T. O. (in the denominator): rock placements 57+7*/60,

1. High-altitude and technical class
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, from the south (China).
3. Peak Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the south ridge (first ascent).
4. Cat. diff.: 5B–6A (approximately)
5. Height difference: ascent 4400–6873 m — 2473 m, descent 6873–4600 m — 2273 m. Total length — ascent — 4930 m (fixed ropes — 4130 m on ascent). Length of sections with 5–5+(6) cat. diff. — approximately 1340 m, 4 cat. diff. — approximately 1720 m, horizontal sections of the ridge — 1620 m. Average slope of the route — 40°, above the horizontal part of the ridge — 50–55°,