в. Bakedux, 4270 m по В кф. сл. гре­бня, к 4Ак (сл. маршрут D. Ду­равско­го), 55

Ascent Passport:

1. Technical climb category.
2. Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye.
3. Bzhedug, NW wall, direct line.
4. Assumed 5A category, First ascent.
5. Combined route.
6. Height difference: 700 m, route length: 950 m. Length of category complexity sections 5 — 140 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°. Average steepness of the wall — 70°.

Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Central Caucasus, NW spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Mt. Gumači.
3. Mt. Viatau 3820 m via the 3rd ridge, combined route.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2B confirmed.
5. Height difference: 530 m, distance: 1060 m. Length of sections with III category of difficulty: 145 m, IV category of difficulty: 15 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 47°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 9/0, chocks — 2/0
7. Traveling hours — 5

Central Caucasus, Adylsky Ridge

Peak VMF

FIRST ASCENT VIA THE EAST RIDGE Group composition: V.A. Kazanovich, S.G. Porushky, S.P. Zhigir, S.A. Volyanyuk, M.G. Nikulin, V.I. Melnikov. 1980 From the "Djailyk" tourist camp:

• along the suspension road, on the left moraine.
• at the top, transition to the right moraine.
• on the right moraine towards the rocky outcrop between the moraines of the Jalovchat glacier and the Northern Koyavgan glacier.
• under the rocky outcrop, traverse upwards to the right onto the scree.

Report

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "VMF" VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B BY THE TEAM OF ALPCLUB "POLITECHNIK" "POLITECH-4" FROM AUGUST 4, 2022 TO AUGUST 4, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4.32.
2. Volnaya Ispaniya peak, 4271 m, via N wall (V. Kizel, 1952).
3. Difficulty category — 5B.
4. Route character — combined.
5. Route height difference — 500 m; Route length — 800 m; Length of sections:
   • V difficulty category — 55 m
   • VI difficulty category — 40 m

ASCENT REPORT

1. Category: winter ascent.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-SU gorge.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via the North face (Kizel's route).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Height difference — 580 m, length — 850 m, out of which 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 110 m. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons used: Ice screws: 38 (0) Rock pitons: 5 (0) Existing bolted pitons on the route (6 pieces) were used for belaying.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus
2. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via North-Eastern Edge
3. 5B
4. Combined
5. Height difference: 600 m (3600–4200) Route length: 825 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty – 170 m, VI category of difficulty – 15 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 70°
6. Hooks left on the route: 0 Hooks used on the route: 12. Artificial holds used: 13

1. Class of ascent — rock
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Vulleya peak, 3960 m, via the South Edge, East Counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, average steepness — 40°, length of sections: II — 340 m, III — 530 m, IV — 280 m, V — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: for insurance: rock — 17, ice — 0, bolt — 0; for creating RTO — 1.
7. Number of travel hours — 10.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 0.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Elagin Vasily Igorevich, 1st sports category; Kurkin Nikolay Sergeevich, 1st sports category.
10. Team coach — Golovin A.A., Master of Sports.

May 12, 1949 Sports Society “Lokomotiv” Group

The group consisted of Garf (climbing category), Marupin, Baldin, Mikhailov, Povarnin, Radovskaya, and Nekrasova. After an overnight stay at the “Lokomotiv-Tuva” hut, also known as the “Green Hotel,” they departed at 5:00 AM to ascend Peak Germogenova via a new route. The path follows along the right (orographically) moraine of the Bashkara glacier until it reaches the cirque. The cirque is traversed in a northwest direction, [illegible, possibly omitted] to reach the base of the couloir descending from the saddle between Peak Germogenova and Cheget-Kara-Bashi. They had to overcome a small icefall, which was easily bypassed on the right. The group reached a small glacial lake and took a short rest. It was 7:00 AM, and they were at the base of the couloir from the saddle between Peak Germogenova and Cheget-Kara-Bashi. As they ascended the avalanche cones, they quickly gained altitude via the couloir, which had a gradient of about 30° in its lower section and increased to about 50° in its upper section. The couloir is quite wide (60–70 m²) and covered with good firn. It is the main route for all avalanches and rockfalls coming from the slopes of Peak Germogenova and Cheget-Kara-Bashi. A deep avalanche groove runs through the middle of the couloir; however, the avalanches are so powerful that they overflow the right groove, affecting a significant part of the slope.