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Route Description: ЮЗ стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Category 3B route up the Southwest Pillar of Jharlam peak in the Caucasus.
Report on the First Ascent
Dzharlam
Via the South-West Tower Wall "Raz-dva-tri" Bogdanov A.V. 3B 2022
Climbing Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Category of the Leader | Bogdanov Alexey Vladimirovich, 1st sports category |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Category of the Participants | Gorshkov Nikita Alekseevich, 2nd sports category; Shcheglov Vasily Gennadievich, 2nd sports category; Kholenkov Alexey Alexandrovich, 3rd sports category; Kholenkov Sergey Alexandrovich, 3rd sports category; Kholenkov Dmitry Alexandrovich, 3rd sports category |
Route Description: ЮВ кулуару и ЮВ гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Jarlam mountain (2930 m) via the South-Eastern ridge, category 2A, in the Caucasus.
ASCENT REPORT
Djarlam
Via South-Eastern Ridge (“Ta-Ton'ka”) Estimated complexity: 2A 2022
Ascent Details
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Patutinskiy Alexander Nikolaevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the participants | Torchikov Sergey Ilich, Candidate Master of Sports; Strelychuk Antonina Robertovna, Candidate Master of Sports; Plokhov Mikhail Sergeevich, Candidate Master of Sports; Yurchik Stanislav Tarasovich, 2nd sports rank |
Route Description: В склону
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of category 2B route on Giryag summit via the eastern slope in Ingushetia on October 18, 2022.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF GIRIYAG VIA THE EASTERN SLOPE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B BY THE TEAM OF THE ALPINE CAMPS MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM OCTOBER 18, 2022 TO OCTOBER 18, 2022
1. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Denisov Andrei Yurievich – 2nd rank |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Gusev Denis Alekseevich – 3rd rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Yakovenko Alexander Nikolaevich – Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | Alpine Camps Management |
Route Description: правому кф. и полкам ЮВ склона
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of route 2A category of complexity to the peak Dzharlam via the south-eastern wall with a description of the path and recommendations.
Report on the First Ascent
Jharlam
Via the right buttress and shelves of the Southeast wall Bogdanov A.V. Estimated difficulty: 2A 2023 ASCENT PASSPORT
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports category of the leader | Bogdanov Alexey Vladimirovich, CMS |
Route Description: ЮЗ кулуару
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the route through the SW couloir of Bashnya peak (2930 m) with a complexity category of 1B in April 2024.
REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT BASHNYA 2930 m VIA THE SW COULoir, CAT. DIFF. 1B by the GSK Upravlenie alpinistskikh lagerei team from April 26 to 26, 2024
I. Climbing Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Gayunov Alexander unranked, Plyuta Dmitry unranked |
| 1.3 | Coach's full name | Yakovenko A.N. |
| 1.4 | Organization | GSK UAL |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Adalla-Shukhgel (4151 m) via the southern ridge, difficulty category 2B, route description and approaches.
- Ascent class
- Climbing area
- Peak, its height, ascent route
- Estimated difficulty category
- Route characteristics
- Number of pitons driven
- Number of travel hours
- Number of overnight stays
- Names of team leader and participants, their sports qualification
- Team coach
Route Description: СЗ кф.
SSummitMateDescription of the category 2B route to the summit of Addala-Shukhgelmeir East (3970 m) in the Bogossky ridge of the Eastern Caucasus.
ASCENT PASS
- Ascent class: rock
- Ascent area: №2.9 (East Caucasus, Bogossky Ridge)
- Peak, its height and route: Addala-Shukhgelmeэр East, 3970 m, via the northern counterfort
- Proposed difficulty category: 2B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 770 m, average steepness — 50°, section duration: R1–500 m, R2–250 m, R3–250 m, R4–220 m, R5–120 m
- Number of driven pitons:
- rock: 3
- ice: 1
- bolt: –
Route Description: Ю гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Babaku (3997 m) along the southern ridge, category IБ, length 900 m, total height difference 790 m.
Ascent Passport. I. Route is combined (K) 2. 2.96 mountains of Dagestan (East. Caucasus) 3. Ascent to the peak Babaku, 3997 m via ridge 10 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 1B 5. Route characteristics: — length — 900 m — total elevation gain — 790 m — average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons were not used 7. The route was completed without intermediate bivouacs
Route Description: С ребру
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Babaku (3997 m) via the North Ridge, a rocky route, category IV complexity, first ascent in 1995.
Ascent Log
- Category of first ascents.
- Region 2.10. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Babaku ridge.
- Babaku, 3997 m, via the North Edge, rock route.
- Category 4B complexity, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 500 m, average steepness of the edge 45°, length 1300 m, section lengths: 1—800 m, 2—85 m, 4—45 m, 5—85 m, including climbing with artificial aids (ITOs): A1–7 m, A2–16 m.
- Used: placement elements: 37/13 rock pitons: 16/2 outcrops: 6
Route Description: СВ ребру и В гребню
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the northeastern wall of Dalar peak by a team from the Spartak DSO sports society in 1964.
Team Composition
The MGS DSO "Spartak" team was formed in 1961. During 1961-1963, team members completed a series of climbs up to category 5B difficulty. Already in 1963, the team considered it possible to participate in the All-Union team competitions in the class of technically complex ascents. In July 1963, the team completed part of the declared route, but an earthquake forced the group to return. They completed a route on East Dombay-Ulgen via the south wall, which took 1st place in Moscow. The team composition, as per the application submitted to the judging committee, was determined to be 10 people. As a result of training ascents, the following group composition was determined:
- Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of the USSR — leader
- Shataev V. N. — 1st sports category
- Polyakov L. D. — 1st sports category
- Magomedov Kh. K. — 1st sports category