15. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the south, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5

The beginning of the traverse is described in route 12. From the 1st peak of the Crown of Siam, descend north along a ledge. Then follow rocks with steepness up to 55° and length of 80–90 m with good protrusions, which are more expedient to descend using a sport climbing technique down to a col. From the col, traverse a gendarme on the left along a narrow talus ledge to a ridge of black crumbly rocks. Ascend along the ridge for 20 m to a large flat boulder. 10 m from the boulder, a steep couloir descends to the northwest, which is crossed in its upper part to exit onto a ledge that veers left from the couloir. At the end of the ledge, ascend a steep short groove to the ridge of the 2nd peak of the Crown of Siam. Then ascend easy slabs with a slight steepness to the summit. The descent from the summit begins along the ridge to the left via a crack into a niche, from where a 40 m rope descent leads to a snowpatch that descends to the col between the 2nd and 3rd peaks. The ascent to the 4th peak is described in route 13. Descend from the summit east along the ridge, and then along ledges to the left to the Nishon pass. From the pass, descend west on snow and then, bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, return to the Four Pass and to the base camp. The traverse takes 8–9 hours.

16. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the north, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5

The beginning of the traverse is described in route 14. Ascend to the 3rd peak of the Crown of Siam slightly to the right of the ridge via a snowy couloir. Descend from the summit along an easy rocky ridge to the col between the 3rd and 2nd peaks.

Horseshoe of Sangalt Glacier

Ascent in this area is done from overnight camps: either on the left lateral moraine of Sangalt Glacier or from below Snezhny Pass. Pяти Pass connects Sangalt Glacier with Snezhny Pass. The approach along Sangalg valley to the camps takes 4–5 hours. Fig. 31.

Kruglaya

58. Kruglaya from the northwest, route 16 cat. diff., fig. 31 (Martynov V. with a group — 1953) From the bivouac on the moraine below Snezhny Pass, exit into the cirque towards the pass. The ascent to the summit is to the left, onto the ridge via a steep narrow couloir filled with snow; in its upper part, the couloir becomes the steepest. The summit is accessed via a steep, broken ridge. Many loose rocks. Traverse a short slope with large scree to reach a small snowfield. Follow the snow, bypassing individual rock outcrops, to approach the low rocks of the summit. The descent from the summit is to the east, on the right side of a narrow couloir. Rockfall hazard! Lower down, on the right side of the couloir, a terrace begins, follow it to its end. Descend 25 m down a steep chute to reach an inclined slab. Traverse the slab for 20 m to the next terrace, which leads to a steep chute. Cross the upper part of the chute, crest a low ridge, and follow black, easy rocks to reach Pяти Pass. From the pass, descend via snow to the bivouac. The ascent takes 5–6 hours.

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Description of the Traverse

3 peaks of "Wings of Tajikistan" 2B cat. sl. A group from the "Varzob" tourist camp crosses to the right bank of the "Varzob" river and moves upstream until the first stream (after Siama) flows into the "Varzob" river. The stream originates under the saddle between "Varzobskaya Pila" and the "Wings of Tajikistan" peak. The path goes up the stream:

• initially along the scree (on the right side of the path),
• then along the snow,
• the ascent to the saddle is again along the scree. Overnight stay is organized at convenient platforms. From the bivouac, the movement is westward along the ridge. Small gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The snowy ridge leads to the base of the eastern peak.
• The first gendarme is bypassed on the left
• The second is taken "head-on"

7. Medvezhiy Zamok from Zamok Pass, category 3A route, fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend northwards via scree and grassy slopes to Zamok Pass. From the pass, move left towards the south-eastern ridge of the summit. The ascent begins along this ridge on moderately difficult rocks. Protection is alternating. Overcome two short rock walls. Bypass the gendarme on the right via slabs. The subsequent internal corner, with a steepness of up to 60° and 15 m long, is climbed left of the ridge, then along the ridge. Bypass the second gendarme on the left via ledges. Protection is via pitons. The bypass is 20–25 m long. Then ascend a 4-meter rock wall to reach a broad ridge platform. Traverse subsequent grey slabs on the right via a crack between them. Further, ascend via scree and easy rocks to the Southern summit. The descent from the summit to the north is via the Northern summit — category 2A (route 6). The ascent takes 9 h. Ledges with large rocks Gateway Ledge (60°) Black veins: 3rd 2nd 1st B. Siamy Glacier

24. South peak of Naysagby from the east, category III, route 16, fig. 11 (Frusin K., Galatenko V., Popereka M. — 1954)

The ascent to the summit is made from a bivouac located in the upper reaches of the Pugus River, where there are good glades. It is better to approach the bivouac from the Khodzha-Obi-Garm resort via the road through the Ruidasht plateau and the Takhob pass. You can stop at the bivouac right after the pass or move further up the trail along the stream towards the South Naysagba peak. The approach takes 2–3 hours. Fig. 11. The ascent route goes along the eastern ridge, which in its lower part turns to the southeast, thus closing the cirque of the peak from the east, formed by the southern ridge and the said ascent route along the ridge to the summit from the east. From the bivouac, move towards the summit along the stream via grassy slopes or the stream bed (snow in spring). In the lower part of the ridge, there is a rocky belt. The exit to the ridge is on the right side via ledges and gutters of the rocky belt. Then follow simple rocks along the ridge. Move further along the ridge to the summit (snow at the beginning of summer, cornices to the north!). Individual rock outcrops are bypassed or overcome with belay. Descent from the summit is made via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

Description of the Traverse of the "Piramida" Peak

2B category of difficulty Departure from the base camp, located in the Avicenna cirque, to the middle moraine at 6 am. Ascent up the snowy plateau to the "Okno" pass, then left to the saddle between the 2nd and 3rd (farthest) gendarmes. Exit to the saddle on snow and rock ledges. Then we come out to a small gentle snowy plateau (on the east side of the ridge), cross it to the left and approach the ledges to the right of the visible crevice from the plateau. Further: – On the ledges to the left, we approach the beginning of a 10 m high wall with good protrusions and holds (protection to the right of the crevice through a protrusion). – Further ascent goes up a vertical (70°) crevice with a small number of holds (hook protection required), 30 m. – Continue ascent along the ridge upwards.

Ascent to the peak ULAR from the Ular glacier via the NW ridge — cat. III

The ascent to the peak is made from the "Zelenaya polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivachnaya. From the camp, one should go upstream along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsli, Ular, Khyrс, Kulay Dzovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, which is crossed to the left in the direction of the Ular massif (its NW ridge), leaving the Vorob'inyi pass to the right. The ascent route to the NW ridge goes along the rib to the left of the third couloir (counting from the bottom) from the Ular glacier plateau. The couloir is steep and narrow and leads to the saddle of the NW ridge. Start the ascent via this couloir. Approaching the bergschrund, leave the steep snowy couloir leading to the gap in the NW ridge to the right (hereinafter referred to as the gap between the 1st and 2nd jandarmes), cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, or if the bridge is absent, descend into the crevasse.

23. Khodzha Laizi from the south, route category III, fig. 10 (Mukhamedova E., with a group – 1953)

The route starts from the Khodzha-Obi-Garm resort along a grassy slope to the southern ridge of the summit. Climb along the ridge to a rocky gendarme, which does not present particular difficulties. Pass the next gendarme on the right through a couloir with black stones. The couloir leads to a grassy slope, at the top of which a large rocky spire is visible. KHODJA LAISI CORNISES (IN SPRING)! 23 RESORT Fig. 10. The grassy ridge narrows and leads to rocks. Reach the sub-summit along the ridge. Traverse complex sections on the left of the ridge along scree. Before the summit, the ridge has a steep step down, 5–7 m high, where it is necessary to set up a rope descent. Steep, smooth rocks lead to the summit ridge. Reach the summit along easy rocks. The ascent takes 6 hours. Descend from the summit to the left along scree into the cirque beneath Ular peak. In winter, descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

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II. Khosilot.

Description of the ascent from the West via route 1Б (Category III)

I. Approaches.

The approaches to the start of the route are similar to those for the Yaghnobskaya Stena (main peak) route. It's also possible to exit directly under the route.

II. Ascent (from the camp in the upper Kanyon).

Move in the direction of the western wall of the peak, exiting onto the ridge beneath it. Along the wall, descend 300 meters. Here, a wide fracture of the peak's massif ends in a narrow couloir. A waterfall cascades down from the peak's plateau. The ascent path is to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall, via easy rock. Move simultaneously, but cautiously. After 1–1.5 hours, exit onto the plateau, in the eastern part of which, between two peaks, there is a connecting ridge, accessible via easy rock. From the connecting ridge, also on easy rock, move simultaneously. Descend from the peak via the ascent route. The ascent from camp to camp takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent was made in July 1971 by a group consisting of:

• Tkachev V.K., Candidate Master of Sports
• Kislov Yu., 3rd sports category

Description

Ascent from the north to p. Khosilot 2B cat. sl. and descent along route 1B cat. sl. I. Climbing Area. p. Khosilot (4650 m) is located in the Yaghnob Wall area.

• To the north, from the summit to the Ledovyy col between the Eastern peak of the Yaghnob Wall and Khosilot, lies a glacier.
• To the northeast, a steep ice-rock ridge descends into the Yaghnob river valley.
• To the west, a rocky ridge stretches, ending in 200-meter sheer cliffs.
• The southern slopes of the peak are more eroded and drop down with sheer walls and wide ledges to a nameless col.