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Route Description

R0–R1 (when ascending from Gebi valley): The path from the Western side is easier to navigate and access the Northern ridge. From the overnight stays at the bottom of the valley, we head East, ascending the Western slope of Chirh ridge. We need to go up to the right along the scree slope, orienting towards the right edge of the central part of Chirh ridge, to the rightmost standalone tower - this is at 3505 m. There are still a number of rock gendarmes to the right of it, but they are lower in height. Along the scree couloir, and in the upper part - along the rocks on its right side, we go up towards the col between the peaks of Ev. Goluba (3503 m) on the left and 300 years of St. Petersburg (3505 m) on the right. Before reaching the col, we divert to the right along rocky ledges and walls between them onto the rocks to the right of the narrow couloir; and exit onto the Northern ridge of peak 3505 m. The entire section is about 900 m. From the overnight stays, it takes 3-4 hours. R1–R2: Along the Northern ridge to 3505 m, mostly on its right side, ascend 20 m along rocks of 2nd category difficulty. To the right of the narrow ridge:

• traverse of 4th category difficulty; 70°; 2 m. After that, another 25 m; 1-2 category difficulty, and ascend to peak 3505 m - 300 years of St. Petersburg. The entire section is about 50 m; 40-50°. There are no signs of human presence on the summit. The summit is a good panoramic point. Descent is via the ascent route.

Route Description

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus. Digoria, Rocky ridge, section number in KMGV 2.6.
3. Uazakhoh (3529 m), via the Eastern ridge and the Northern wall of the tower.
4. 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference of the route 530 m, route length about 1 km. Average steepness of the route 30°.
6. Driven pitons: 2/0; закладок 3/0. Left on the route rock anchors — 2, for descent.
7. Team's walking hours – 6 hours, days – 1.
8. Comfortable overnight stay.

Tsikhvar­ga

Tsikh­var­ga (4132 m) is a key peak of the Main Ridge between the peak Kain to the northwest and the Gur­ziv­ts­ek pass to the southeast. Beyond the pass lies the peak Sau­al­khoyne. The northern ridge of Tsikh­var­ga extends into a long spur with the peaks Tsagor and Legauta. The spur separates the Fastag gorges to the east and Bartuy to the west, with glaciers of the same name in their upper reaches. 80. Tsikh­var­ga via the Northwest Ridge (combined route, category II) From the settlement of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people), cross the Karaugom river by bridge and follow a forest road to the settlement of Nogkau. From here, move along a forest trail on the right bank of the Bartuy river. Further:

• the trail crosses to the left bank by bridge,
• after 2-3 km, returns to the right bank,
• along the right bank, approaches the right-bank moraine. Along the moraine ridge, then via scree and a steep snowy slope, reach the Bartuy glacier 200-250 m above its tongue. Initially, ascend on the right side of the glacier (closed crevices), then cross it to the left and emerge under the left side of the first step of the icefall on the Eastern branch of the Bartuy glacier. Further:

Fig. 4 8. Tzukhgarty via the East Ridge (V. Popov's combined route, category 4A, fig. 4). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Sugan Ridge between the peaks of Galdor on the right and Tzukhgarty on the left is described in routes 1, 6. On the saddle, turn left and approach along the ridge to the rocky ascent of Tzukhgarty's East Ridge. Climb 40 m up the steep, moderately difficult rocks of the ascent ("live" stones - protection) under the vertical walls.

Fig. 5 13. Peak Shevchenko (4161 m) via the South Ridge (combined route by A. Toporenko, category III difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4–8 people):

• ascend along the crest of the left-bank moraine through the gorge to its end, where you exit to the right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier
• on the left side of the glacier, then along the slope of its northeastern branch, approach the ice-and-snow couloir descending on the left side of the south ridge of

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Digoria, Chirh ridge, section number 2.6.
2. Chirh – 3515 m; via the North Ridge.
3. Category 2A is proposed; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference – 700 m (from the base of the ridge). Route length — 280 m (from the point of exit onto the North Ridge, from point R1). Length of sections with category 4 difficulty – 5 m. Steepness of the main part of the route — 80 °. Average steepness of the entire route is around 30 °.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Total equipment used on the route:

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.4. Central Caucasus, mountain region — Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge, SE spur of Elbrus
2. Names of peaks: Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) — Sarykol (3700) Route: traverse from south to north
3. Category of complexity: 2B
4. Character of the route — rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 1376 m
6. Length of the route: 3320 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of complexity:

To the Alpine Federation of Russia.

The Classification Commission of the FAR of Alania sends a report on the first ascent made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on peak 3661 (3661 m) via the South wall on August 1, 2012. The route was preliminarily assessed as category 3A.

Report

On the first ascent to peak 3661 (3661 m) via the South wall, approximately category 3A, made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on August 1, 2012. Under the leadership of Yuri Vasilyevich Levkovsky. address: 362035, Alania, Vladikavkaz, pr. Kosta — 273/69, uvl53@yandex.ru

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Sugansky ridge, 2,6

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT MULDZUGI — BARZOND (3064 m) VIA THE ROUTE CATEGORY IIIB BY THE FRI-LINE CLUB TEAM May 18, 2019 Pyatigorsk

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

1.1 Team Leader: Popov M.L. Candidate Master of Sports

peak Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) Route: via the southern ridge Category complexity — 1B cat. (rocky) Leader: D. Strelchuk Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge Section in KMGV — 2.4. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to the peak Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) "via the southern ridge 2A cat. (rocky)". At the mountaineering event of the Higher Mountain School of the FAR "School of Instructors of Mountain Training of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation" in 2012. Region: Kabardino-Balkarian Republic Mountain country: Central Caucasus Gorge: Terskol Ridge: mountain range — southeastern spur of Elbrus "Terskolak