of tires and giant snow cornices. The ridge is initially sharp with cornices on the NE side.

• Two rocky jandarmas are passed with piton belay.
• The last three ropes of ascent to the 5280 m summit are very steep.
• The exit to the 5280 m summit is through a 1–1.5 m snow cornice. The route from the 5280 m summit goes northeast along the ridge. The first section of the path (250 m) is along the ridge with several cornices hanging to the southeast, and the northwest side of the ridge is a sheer ice drop. Further, the ridge abruptly breaks off with a 30–40 meter wall 5–7 meters wide. At this section, it is advisable to use a handrail. Further, several cornices are passed, behind which is a fairly large mulda where a bivouac can be organized (our group dug a cave here). After the mulda, the ridge narrows again. Having passed several steep ascents and sharp descents with large cornices, a jandarma is encountered (a very narrow, jagged ridge, 100–120 m long), its left side (along the route) breaks off with rocky walls, and the right side is ice drops with cornices. The passage of this section must be with thorough belay. Beyond the jandarma is a sheer ice descent for two ropes. The further path goes along the ridge with steep ascents and descents up to 60–70°. Cornices are located on the right side, all the way to the summit. The entire route (ridge) must be traversed, staying on the left side along the route, except for the jandarma. Before the pre-summit ascent, there is a fairly large mulda (platform) where a bivouac can be organized (by digging a cave). The ascent to the summit along the pre-summit slope is steep (55–60°) to the right of the mulda and to the right of the jandarma, resembling Ushba in its outline. The first 40–50 m are very deep snow, then you need to go left along the firm firn, after 1.5–2 hours.

The path from the saddle of the main ridge to the pre-summit tower takes 44.5 hours. From the pre-summit tower to the summit, there is a narrow snowy ridge (length 748 m), ending at a 6-meter snow cornice. The height from the ridge to the top of the cornice is 4 m. The insurance on this section is:

• piton belay
• through an ice axe The summit is a snowy plateau with cornices overhanging to the east and southeast. In the eastern direction, to the right of the ridge, there is a cornice with a thickness of more than 3 m and an overhang of 242.5 m. Descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The time for ascent and descent is 21 hours. Recommendations for climbers:

1. Start on the route for sports groups no later than 5 am.
2. Approximate equipment for a sports group of 4 people: 2. Main rope 30 m - 2 pcs. 3. Universal hammer - 1 pc.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina via the Eastern Ridge.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina (5130 m) via the Eastern Ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir. Trans-Alay Range. Peak Yukhina 5130 m. Presumed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent. Nature of the route — rocky. Height difference of the route — 400 m. Route length — 1000 m.
2. Length of sections: I — 350 m, II — 350 m, III — 300 m.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — degrees.
4. Number of "hooks" left on the route: total — 0;

The ascent to the ridge in its lower part from the overnight stay takes 1.5 hours. Then the movement goes up the ridge in the general direction towards the peak Sverdlova massif. The average steepness of the ridge is 30–35°, but there are separate sections up to 45–50°, where alternate belay is required. The movement along the ridge to the summit takes 3 hours. The summit is a rocky outcrop where a spur branches off to the southeast from the main northeastern ridge. From the summit, the northern and eastern slopes of the peak Sverdlova massif and the eastern part of the Zadadsky ridge are well visible. Descent is via the ascent route. It takes 2 hours to reach the overnight stay. Category: 1B. Recommended equipment for a group of 4 people:

• Main rope (30 m) — 2 pcs.
• Tent — 1 pc.
• Ice screws — 2 pcs.
• Rock hammer — 1 pc.
• Crampons — 4 pairs
• Carabiners — 6 pcs. The description was compiled by alpinism instructor A. Kiselev

Route Description

Ascent to the summit "5149"

Via the north-west ridge. Cat. diff. 1B. Depart from the base camp no later than 7:00 am. The base camp is located at an altitude of 4200 m near the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier at Serebrennny stream on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the Kок-Сай river is forded. The duration of the journey to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the slope of 25°–30° of the NW ridge in the direction of the shoulder before the first steep rise of the ridge. The slope is covered with medium scree. Once on the ridge, rope up! The height of the shoulder is about 4700 m. The duration of the path from the foot is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes. Then move along the ridge towards the summit. The first section of the ridge rises at an angle of 45° for 50–60 m and is a not very wide (3–4 m) snow patch with individual protruding rocks. Insurance is simultaneous. Next begins the 1st rocky section of the ridge, rising with 3 walls 4–7 meters high and alternating between them with more gentle sections covered with snow. The average steepness of the section is 25°–30°. Insurance when overcoming rocky ascents is alternating, via rock outcrops. Further, the ridge widens, slightly drops, and then rises again at an angle of 10°–15° and is covered with snow. There follows a snowy ascent of the ridge with a steepness of 45°–50°, then a pre-summit section with a steepness of 25°, also snowy with individual protruding rocks. The width of the ridge allows simultaneous movement in rope teams. The last 100–120 meters to the summit are almost flat, with a slight ascent, and feature broken rocks. The summit consists of broken rocks. The time taken from the point of exit onto the ridge (shoulder before the first ascent of the ridge) to the summit is 2–2.5 hours.

From the summit 5100 m there is a series of descents and ascents to the snowy narrow ridge "strelka" and along it a descent into the circus, onto the glacier. The time taken to complete the route from the summit 5100 m to the glacier takes 2 hours. On both sides of the snowy ridge "strelka" the slope is avalanche-prone, requiring great caution. The group mastered the route 3A cat. sl. Recommended equipment for a group of 4 people. Rope 40 m - 2 pcs. Ice screws - 2 pcs. Hammers - 2 pcs. Crampons - 4 pairs. Tent - 1 pc. The description was compiled by A. Kiselev

Route Description

Ascent to peak "5812" via the western ridge

Cat. difficulty 2B

Day 1

Departure at 15:00 from the base camp located at an altitude of 4200 m below the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the peak, two branches of the Kok-Sai River are forded. The duration of the path to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the gully of a stream flowing from a snowfield located in the cirque between the S and W ridges. The slope is 10°–15°. Further, the path goes along a slope of 30°–35° towards the S counterfort of the W ridge. The slope is covered with medium-sized scree. The overnight camping spot is chosen at an altitude of about 4800 m on the S slope of the W ridge, where a campsite can be set up with a small amount of labor and there are snowfields to fetch water. The duration of the path from the base camp to the overnight camping spot is 3.5–4 hours.

After the couloir, traversing left upwards the scree slopes, we come to a destroyed counterfort of yellowish color. On the left (in the direction of travel) side of this counterfort, on the border of rocks and snow, we move straight up to the exit to the main ridge, leading to the summit. The ridge is snow-rocky, heavily destroyed, in some places under the snow, there is ice. The path along the ridge is unambiguous and leads straight to the summit "feathers". On the ridge, there are several small gendarmes, overcome head-on, and two are bypassed on the left. When bypassing gendarmes, the insurance is hook-type. Under the snow, ice is possible. There are several large cornices on the ridge, hanging over the right (in the direction of travel) slopes of the ridge.

Report

On the first ascent of the national team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the summit of Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m via the eastern edge. Category 2B difficulty. Presumably Category 2B difficulty. Ascent on September 11, 2022.

Semenov M. A. — MS team leader Maksimov K. M. experience of 2nd sports category Alpclub — "Gornoe Bezumie" 2023

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Participants of the ascent