of tires and giant snow cornices. The ridge is initially sharp with cornices on the NE side.

• Two rocky jandarmas are passed with piton belay.
• The last three ropes of ascent to the 5280 m summit are very steep.
• The exit to the 5280 m summit is through a 1–1.5 m snow cornice.

The route from the 5280 m summit goes northeast along the ridge. The first section of the path (250 m) is along the ridge with several cornices hanging to the southeast, and the northwest side of the ridge is a sheer ice drop. Further, the ridge abruptly breaks off with a 30–40 meter wall 5–7 meters wide. At this section, it is advisable to use a handrail.

Further, several cornices are passed, behind which is a fairly large mulda where a bivouac can be organized (our group dug a cave here). After the mulda, the ridge narrows again. Having passed several steep ascents and sharp descents with large cornices, a jandarma is encountered (a very narrow, jagged ridge, 100–120 m long), its left side (along the route) breaks off with rocky walls, and the right side is ice drops with cornices. The passage of this section must be with thorough belay.

Beyond the jandarma is a sheer ice descent for two ropes. The further path goes along the ridge with steep ascents and descents up to 60–70°. Cornices are located on the right side, all the way to the summit.

The entire route (ridge) must be traversed, staying on the left side along the route, except for the jandarma.

Before the pre-summit ascent, there is a fairly large mulda (platform) where a bivouac can be organized (by digging a cave).

The ascent to the summit along the pre-summit slope is steep (55–60°) to the right of the mulda and to the right of the jandarma, resembling Ushba in its outline. The first 40–50 m are very deep snow, then you need to go left along the firm firn, after 1.5–2 hours.