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First ascent via the West face of Peak Korzhenevskaya in the Central Pamir along the "triangle" of 5B difficulty category.

Passport

  1. Altitude class
  2. Central Pamir
  3. Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the triangle of the Western wall
  4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
  5. Height difference: 1900 m, length — 3305 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 765 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. Of which 6 cat. diff. — 85°–120 m.
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of a new combined route, category 6A, to the peak of Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via the left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge, climbed by a Soviet team of mountaineers in 1988.

Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m

Left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge

led by Chochia P.A. 1988

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range, section №4.1 of the route classifier on mountain peaks.
  2. Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge.
  3. Proposed: 5B — 6A difficulty category (first ascent).
  4. Route character: combined.
  5. Height difference of the route: 1800 m. Route length: 2900 m. Length of sections:
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Ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via the center of the West Face, 6th category of difficulty, Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — high-altitude
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m, via the center of the West wall
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference — 1605 m
    • height difference of the wall section — 1200 m
    • length of sections:
      • 5th category — 715 m
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Ascent of the team from the Irkutsk Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" sports society to Pik Rossiya (6,852 m) via the bastion on the south-eastern wall in the Central Pamir in 1980.

Burevestnik Central Sports Council Alpine Championship, high-altitude class CENTRAL PAMIR. ACADEMY OF SCIENCES RANGE. PIK ROSSIA (6852 m). Via the bastion of the south-eastern wall. Team from the Irkutsk Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society. Second ascent of the route. Irkutsk, 1980.

Ascent Details

  1. Ascent class — high-altitude
  2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, starting from the Bivachny Glacier
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Report on the first ascent by the SKA UralVO team to the summit of Ardagbagh via the NW wall in 1979 with a detailed description of the route and recommendations.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION 58 Б/4. 487 and 12 Without KSp protocol Entered on 01.04.80 Order of the Committee dated 06.11.80, 5B exists Appendix 1 dated 08.01.80 Championship of SA and Navy in mountaineering

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Ascent description to the Kulizog peak via the northern ridge, category IIIb, with route details and terrain features of the area.

The peak Kulizog (4688 m) is located in the Northwest Pamir in the upper reaches of the Vanch River, in the northern spur of the Vanch Ridge. The Kulizog peak is the easternmost in a group of five peaks (p. 4321 m, p. 5137 m, p. 5232 m, p. 5323 m, and Kulizog peak) that frame a horseshoe-shaped glacier feeding the Rovak stream, a tributary of the Vanch River. To the east flows the Abdukagor River. The first topographic survey of the area was conducted by N.G. Dorofeev in 1928. A more detailed topographic survey was carried out in 1949 by a group of topographers and glaciologists led by R.D. Zabirov. The few mountaineering expeditions that have worked in this area have chosen objects on:

  • the northern and middle parts of the Geographical Society glacier (G.O.);
  • the area of the Fedchenko glacier;
  • the Abdukagor River valley. The first attempt to conquer Kulizog peak was made on August 2, 1972, by a group of climbers from the USSR Armed Forces: V. Golaktionov - leader, D. Tsamay, G. Chubinidze, A.M. Es'kin, V.A. Es'kin - from the upper reaches of the Rovak River. The group left their bivouac on the slope of the Rovak River at 8:00 and, reaching the first large gendarme, left a note by 15:00. The group did not reach the summit.

Description

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Report on the ascent to the summit of Ravak (5232 m) via the Eastern Ridge, category of difficulty 3-6, technical characteristics of the route, and description of the path.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: TECHNICAL CLASS.
  2. Ascent area: VANCH RANGE.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: RAVAK 5232 m EASTERN RIDGE of RAVAK GLACIER.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Height difference: 1100 m
    • Average steepness: 44°
    • Length I–90 m: II–990 m: III–185 m: IV–275 m: V–15 m
  6. Pitons driven:
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Ascent of the north wall of Peak Khrustalny (5231) in the Pamir Mountains by a team of climbers from the "Donbass" club in 1976, first ascent of a category 5B route.

4.2.26

4.2. Pamir, Vanch Range, Peak Khrustalny, 5231 m, North Face

Alpinism Club "Donbass"

DesignationRankClub
1.BONDARETS Stanislav AfanasievichCandidate for Master of SportsBurevestnik
2.FELD'MAN Gennadiy L'vovich1st sports rankBurevestnik
3.MIROSHNICHENKO Konstantin Vasil'evich1st sports rankAvangard
4.MARTYNENKO Sergey Ivanovich1st sports rankAvangard
5.MESHCHERYAKOV Aleksandr Sergeevich1st sports rankAvangard
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Ascent certificate for Shaugada peak (5137 m) via the Northern ridge (4B category of difficulty) in the Pamir Mountains, route description, technical characteristics, and participants of the 1979 ascent.

Ascent Certificate

  1. Ascent Class: Technical
  2. Ascent Area: Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shaugada 5137 m, via the North Ridge
  4. Proposed Difficulty Category: 4B cat. diff.
  5. Route Characteristics: height difference 840 m, average slope 45°. Length of sections: R1–480 m; R2–200 m; R3–160 m; R4–120 m; R5–220 m.
  6. Pitons hammered: — for belay: rock 22, ice 20, bolted —.
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Ascent to Janlyk peak (4A cat. grade) via the Eastern ridge, detailed route description, required equipment, and possible bivouac locations.

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

  • Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
  • Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
  • Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
  • Turn right here.
  • Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
  • Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.
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