65. Severnaia via the Eastern ridge

The route is a combined one by A. Meshcheryakov, category 3A, fig. 88, 89, 101, 102. Length 700–800 m, duration 7–9 hours. From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–8 people), take a bus for 1.5–2 hours to the village of Kharisdzhin. From the village, walk 1.5–2 km upstream along the gorge road to the right tributary of Fiagdon - the Tsadzhiau River. Cross the river and turn right, ascending via a serpentine trail on the left bank until the gorge turns left to the south. Here, cross the Tsadzhiau River and follow the trail of an old overgrown road on the right bank to approach a mountain lake. The base camp is located on the lake's shore. The journey from the road takes 2.5–3 hours, and from the village of Kharisdzhin - 3–4 hours. From the lake, follow the wide, even bottom of the gorge to reach the terminal moraine of the Tsadzhiau Glacier. From here, there are two options to ascend to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge of Severnaia peak. First option:

• Turn right on the moraine and ascend via scree and easy, crumbling rocks on the right slope to the Southeast buttress of the Eastern ridge.
• Turn right here and ascend via easy, crumbling rocks and scree on the Southeast buttress to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge. Second option:
• Proceed along the right moraine upstream through the gorge for several hundred meters, approaching an overhanging rock on the right. A base camp is possible under this rock. The journey from the lake takes 1.5–2 hours.
• From the rock, ascend upstream through the gorge and, bypassing the base of the Southeast buttress of the Eastern ridge, turn right.

Ascents to the Peak of the 25th Anniversary of North Ossetia (Syrkhu–Barzond) (4051 m) via the northern ridge, category 3A difficulty. The summit is located in the northwestern spur of the lateral ridge branching off from Tsarint-khokh and represents an independent massif of the spur. The northern ridge of the summit was traversed in 1949 by a group of North Ossetian alpinists. To the west, a steep ridge branches off, not yet traversed by anyone and estimated to be around category III-IV difficulty. To the north, into the Kurtatinsky gorge, towards the village of Khidikus, descends a ridge that was traversed for the second time by groups of the North Ossetian DOS "Spartak" on May 29-30, 1964 (Group of 1st-class climbers and 2nd group led by 1st-class climbers). The height difference from the Kurtatinsky gorge to the summit is 2500 m. The route length is approximately 7 km. The main technical work takes place at an altitude of 3300-4051 m above sea level. The path from the village of Khidikus goes along a wide ridge. Initially, it's a steep grassy slope with many trails. Further, the path goes along slopes overgrown with subalpine mixed forests. Higher up, at an altitude of 2300-2500 m, grassy slopes resume, overgrown with rhododendrons. Overnight stays are possible here (lack of water in summer). The journey from the village of Khidikus to the overnight stay takes 4.5-5 hours. Further up - a short distance along the slopes and exit onto a wide, clearly defined ridge, overgrown with grass, with rock outcrops. On the ridge - a large "gendarme". The journey from the overnight stay to the "gendarme" takes 2-2.5 hours;

Route Description

Ascent to Peak 25-letiya Severnoy Osetii (Syrkhu-Barzond) (4051 m) via the northern ridge, category 3A. The summit is located in the northwestern spur of a lateral ridge branching off from Tsarint-khokh and represents an independent massif of the spur. The northern ridge of the summit was climbed in 1949 by a group of North Ossetian alpinists. To the west, a steep ridge extends, still unclimbed and estimated to be category 3-4. To the north, into the Kurtatinsky gorge, towards the village of Khidikus, descends a ridge that was climbed for the second time by groups of the North Ossetian DOSAAF "Spartak" on May 29-30, 1964 (a group of 1st category and 2 groups led by 1st category). The height difference from the Kurtatinsky gorge to the summit is 2500 m. The route length is approximately 7 km. The main technical work takes place at an altitude of 3300-4051 m above sea level. The path from the village of Khidikus goes along a wide ridge. Initially, it's a steep grassy slope with many trails. Further, the path goes along slopes overgrown with subalpine mixed forests. Higher up, at an altitude of 2300-2500 m, grassy slopes reappear, overgrown with rhododendrons. Overnight stops are possible here (lack of water in summer). The journey from the village of Khidikus to the overnight stop takes 4.5-5 hours.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tbau Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from Kakadursky Pass, category 1B, by the GSK "Krokus" team, May 12, 2019 2019

1. Ascent Passport

80. Tepli Main via Southwest by the couloir of the West ridge

The route is combined A. Zyuzina, cat. 3B, fig. 88, 89, 109, 115, 117. Length 700–900 m, time 9–12 h. From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–8 people):

• Take the cable car to the village of Nar.
• Ascend along the dirt road through the Lyia-don river gorge to the village of Liia.
• Continue along the trail, pass the mineral spring, and follow along the left bank of the Lyadon river to a green meadow with a mineral spring. From here:
• Ascend via the moraines to the right onto the Southwestern Tepi Glacier.
• Set up the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier or near a small lakelet under the slopes of Komlagat peak.

86

Shaukhokh via the 10th spur to the ridge Anoshin G.G. Caucasus 2.8 PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Caucasus, Genaldon gorge, Kolka glacier
3. Shaukhokh via the 10th spur to the ridge
4. Proposed category 4B, combined, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1400 m. Height of rock sections: category 2 — 100 m, category 3 — 590 m, category 4 — 280 m, category 5 — 130 m. Height of snow-ice ridge: category 2 — 180 m, category 3 — 120 m. Average slope: rock part of the route — 45°, ice ridge — 30–35°
6. No pitons were left on the route previously

Report

on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, winter category 1B difficulty level, by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024.

I. Climbing Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.9: from Krestovy Pass to Shaviklde peak
2. Dzharlam, Central, 3160 m, via 3rd ridge Geographic coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude): 42.841989 / 44.827054
3. Proposed — category 3B difficulty, first ascent (classified as 3A)
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference of the route: 300 m Route length: 695 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 50°; total route — 40°.
6. Number of pitons left on the route:

ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS HIGH-TECHNICAL CLASS 2024

Report on the ascent of Dalar peak (3988 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder (Yu. Porokhnya Route, 1978), 5B cat. diff., combined. July 29, 2024 – July 31, 2024.

Ascent Passport