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Descriptions of climbing routes on Avachinsky volcano, including difficulty categories and historical data on first ascents.

Photopanorama of the ascent area of Avachinsky volcano. #4 — 1B cat. dif., (Winter) Southwest slope E. Lenz, 1842. #5 — 1B cat. dif., Southeast slope V. Arsenyev, 1923.

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Description of the ascent route to Avachinsky volcano (2741 m) via the Western slope in winter, difficulty category 1B, climbed by E. Lenz in 1842.

Ascent Passport.

  1. Ascent area: Kamchatka. Avachinskaya group of volcanoes.
  2. Peak name: Avachinsky volcano 2741 m. SW slope.
  3. Proposed category of difficulty: 1B (Winter).
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Elevation gain: 1850 m.
  6. Route length: 6 km.
  7. Average slope: 30°.
  8. Total hours: 6 hours.
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Report on the first ascent of category 2B route via the western slope of Vilyuchinskaya Sopka volcano in Kamchatka, made by the team of KRO *Khabarovsk Regional Alpine Federation* in May 2021.

Report

On the First Ascent to the Summit

VULCAN VILUCHINSKAYA SOPKA, 2173 m above sea level (Kamchatka Krai, Yelizovsky District, Eastern Ridge) — THROUGH THE WESTERN SLOPE 2B category of difficulty (combined); climbed on May 22, 2021, by the team of KhRRO "Khabarovsk Regional Alpine Federation"

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKrasnolutsky Alexander Vyacheslavovich, Candidate Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsGorokhov Kirill Gennadyevich, 3rd sports rank; Kovaleva Svetlana Borisovna, 3rd sports rank; Sitnikov Denis Yuryevich, 3rd sports rank; Antonov Anton Igorevich, Alpine Climbing Instructor; Mironov Anton Anatolyevich, Alpine Climbing Instructor
1.3Full name of the coachKrasnolutsky Alexander Vyacheslavovich
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Ascent to Kozelsky volcano via the Northwest Ridge, Category 1B complexity, description of the route and key moments of ascent and descent.

Vlk. Kozelsky, 2170 m, 1B cat. diff., ridge, S. Grinkevich, 1966.

The approach to the route is from the Upper Hut, along the right side of the Kozelsky Glacier. Then, across the center of the glacier, exit onto the plateau. Cross the plateau in the middle towards the beginning of the NW ridge (see photo). Access to it is in the lower part, under the rocks, via a steep ascent. This section of the approach takes 5 hours. Ascent to a wide snowy ridge covered with frozen coarse slag. Movement along the ridge:

  • in groups, everywhere simultaneous,
  • all gendarmes are bypassed on the right side,
  • the ridge on both sides is cut off by steep slopes and couloirs. After the last two "gendarmes," the ridge becomes gentler but narrower. Exit to a cirque
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Detailed description of the first ascent of the "v. Kozelsky via western edge, category 2B difficulty" route by the "Kutu" alpine club team, with a thorough breakdown of the route sections and the equipment used.

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ALPINISM GROUP ALP/KLUB "KUTH"

Material on the first ascent of the route: "peak Kozelsky via the western edge, category 2B difficulty" The peak "Kozelsky" is located 20 km from the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky in a group of three peaks:

  • peak "Koryakskaya sopka"
  • peak "Avachinskaya sopka"
  • peak "Kozelsky" at 53° north latitude.

Ascent plan for peak "Kozelsky"

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Report on the first ascent to the summit of Vachkaztsy via the eastern ridge, category 2B, by the team of the Kamchatka Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing on June 13, 2008.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Vachkazhtsy (1509 m) via the East Ridge, category 2B, by the team of the Kamchatka Alpine and Climbing Federation for the period from June 13, 2008 to June 13, 2008 2021

I. Ascent Passport

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderVasilenko Anatoly Borisovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full names, sports ranks of the participantsIvanov Georgy, 3rd sports rank, Mayakovskaya Natalia, 3rd sports rank, Zenkova Yulia, 3rd sports rank, Pasyukova Raisa, 3rd sports rank, Sharova Lyubov, 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachVasilenko Anatoly Borisovich
1.4OrganizationKamchatka Alpine and Climbing Federation
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Report on the first ascent of Category 2B route up the left part of the eastern edge of the peak Vachkaztsy (“Dvuzubka”) in Kamchatka.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit

VACHKAZHTSY "DVUZUBKA" RIGHT, 1501 m above sea level (Kamchatka Krai, Elizovsky District, Ganal Range) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE EASTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY (rocky, combined in winter) KHABAROVSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION September 1, 2022

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderKrasnolutsky Alexander Vyacheslavovich, Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor №606
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsKirilin Ilya Fedorovich, no rank
Potapenko Yuri Alexandrovich, no rank
Rudchenko Alena Igorevna, no rank
Rychkova Elena Vladimirovna, no rank
Simshag Tatyana Vladimirovna, no rank
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Report on the first ascent of a 4A category route up the northeast face of Glavnaya Peak (2062 m) in the Ganal'skiy Khrebet range in Kamchatka.

Passport

  1. Russia, Kamchatka Peninsula, Ganal Range Section No. 3 KMGV
  2. Main Peak (2062 m) Route: "via the North-Eastern wall"
  3. Proposed – 4A category of difficulty. First ascent
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Height difference of the rock part of the route: 362 m. Length of the rock part of the route: 461 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty: 70 m. Average steepness of the route: 63°
  6. Left on the route: hook – 1 pc., friend – 1 pc.
  7. Team's walking hours: 11 h 40 min.
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Description of the first ascent via the north-eastern wall of the Glavnaya peak (2062 m) in the Ganal Range, Kamchatka, with a difficulty grade of 4A.

Passport

  1. Russia, Kamchatka Peninsula, Ganal Range Number 3 KMGV
  2. Main Peak (2062 m) Route: "via the North-East wall"
  3. Proposed — 4A category of difficulty. First ascent
  4. Character of the route: rock
  5. Height difference of the rock part of the route: 362 m. Length of the rock part of the route: 461 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty: 70 m. Average steepness of the route: 63°
  6. Left on the route: 1 hook, 1 friend
  7. Team's walking hours: 11 h 40 min
  8. Leader: Benedyk Ivan Nikolayevich, 1st sports category
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Report on the winter ascent by a team to Peak Shchurovsky via the West face "Surka" and the edge of the North face bastion, cat. 5.5, in January-February 1983.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief:

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