Climbing Passport

Climb category: Rock (combined) Climbing area: Iguizaki area (5.2) Peak, its height, and ascent route: Khamsöya traverse of 3 peaks (C–S) Proposed difficulty category: 4A (3A) Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain: 300 m
• Average slope: 30°
• Section lengths: R1–300; R2–500; R3–200; R4–200;
• Pitons driven:

P. Bortsov za Mir, 2A, via East Ridge (V. Egorov's itinerary, 67)

1 — via East Ridge, cat. 2A; 2 — via North Face, cat. 2B. Route sections description (for cat. 2A via East Ridge): R1: 150 m, 40°. R2: 90 m, 65°. R3: 40 m, 60°, cat. 2. R4: 80 m, 60°, cat. 3. R5: 80 m, 10°, cat. 1. Approach to the route via North Face. From Alaudin pass go down to the right in the direction of the East Ridge of Bortsov za Mir peak; further screes and grassy slopes lead under the North Face of the East Ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is a gendarme with a white spot. Bol. Alaudinskoe Lake

P. Bortsov za Mir, 2B, via the North face (N. Morev's route, 79)

1 – via the East ridge, cat. 2A 2 – via the North face, cat. 2B Approach to the North face route. From the Alaudin pass, go right and down, in the direction of the East ridge of Bortsov za Mir peak; further scree and grassy slopes lead under the North walls of the East ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is a gendarme with a white spot. Big Alaudin lake

Route sections

• R0 – start of the route.
• R1: 150 m, 40°.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock. 2. Ascent area — Zaravshan range, Fann Mountains. 3. Peak — Gornoe Ekho, height — 4094 m. Ascent route — via the Eastern ridge, partially explored. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, sections of 5th and 6th difficulty categories are absent, average steepness — 40°. The route is combined. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 5, ice — 2, chocks used — 5. 7. Number of climbing hours — 6 hours. 8. The route is completed without overnight stays. 9. Leader: Belova V.P. — 2nd sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range, Alauddin valley
3. p. Zamok, 5070 m, via West wall, Ilyin V. route
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Elevation gain: 650 m. Distance: 1330 m. Average slope of the main part of the route 52° Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 300–350 m.
6. Pitons driven:

V. Paykhamber, 3B, via Western ridge (A. Lopatko route, '73)

Night stay — at Murtnые lakes or 1 hour higher on the moraines of Lake Paykhamber (there is water), opposite v. Fagitor. From Murtnые lakes, left of v. Fagitor to l. Paykhamber and along it to the snowy saddle between v. Chinal and the 1st gendarme of the western ridge of Paykhamber. Climb the snowy slope (bergschrund!) to the saddle. From Murtnые lakes, 2–2.5 hours. The 1st gendarme is passed on the left via a narrow rock ledge 30 m, then up a steep, crumbling wall 5 m — exit to the ridge and further along the ridge. 2nd gendarme — left along rock ledges on a steep wall, with some overhangs (60 m). 3rd gendarme — to the right of the saddle along an indistinct internal corner 20 m and further along the ridge to the next saddle. 4th gendarme — to the right of the saddle along poorly defined rock ledges 40 m, then traverse to the crevice between the ridge and a rocky spur with a large overhanging rock. Here is a ledge for descent 30 m to a wide, scree-covered saddle between the 4th and 5th gendarmes. From the saddle, traverse the scree slopes to the ridge leading from the 5th gendarme to the "Nizhny" pass on the south side of the Paykhamber ridge. From this lateral ridge, ascend to the main ridge via a scree gully and then along a scree slope — to the saddle between the 5th and 6th gendarmes. Here is a control cairn. From the start of the ascent along the ridge — 4 hours. 6th gendarme — to the right along a vaguely defined internal corner 30 m, then along rock ledges to small walls, up and to the right onto the ridge and then to the saddle before the 7th gendarme. From the control cairn — 1.5–2 hours. 7th gendarme — from the saddle, up and to the right along a steep wall 30 m, into a narrow chimney 5 m (clearly visible). After the chimney, up and to the left along a ledge 10 m, then 10 m up, along a ledge to the right 40 m and 20 m up a crevice.

v. Politekhnik, 3B, via North Ridge (V. Vydrik route, 71)

Ascent Record

Ascent class: rock Region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route description:

• elevation gain — 700 m; © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin» © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin»

View (34 a0) with CAs nC 2/mi–771. The summit of Urech is located in the northern spur of the nodal peak of Aurondag of the Zeravshan ridge, and more precisely, it closes this spur from the north. To the south, v. Urech slightly rises above the ridge (150 m) and the ascent to it is quite simple. To the west, northwest, north, and east from the summit, ridges diverge. According to the information from KSP in the summer of 1977, the following routes were climbed:

• eastern ridge
• western ridge Both routes are not classified, and according to the estimates of the groups that made

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, its height, ascent route — Mt. YUBILEYNAYA, 3600 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed difficulty category — 1B.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, total route length — 900 m, average steepness — 35°.
5. Pitons hammered in: for belaying — 4 pcs.
6. Number of climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none.

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Pamir-Alai. Fann Mountains. Imat valley
3. "Stupenka" peak
4. Proposed 2B cat. first ascent
5. Height difference 250 m. Length of sections 3 cat. - 45 m 2 cat. - 250 m
6. 4 pitons driven, 10 chocks placed.
7. Duration - 2.5 hours
8. Team: Baykovsky Yu. V. MS