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Description of a technical ascent to the summit of Ullu-Kara (4302 m) via the west wall, with a difficulty rating of 5B, completed by a team of climbers in 2001.

Ascent Log

  1. Category: technical
  2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su valley
  3. Peak: Ullukara (4302 m)
  4. Route: via the center of the western face (S. Nagornyy's route), 5B cat. diff., 2.4.176(a)
  5. Elevation gain: -682 m. Distance: -1170 m. Length of sections with VI cat. diff.: -80 m. Average steepness:
    • main part of the route (pillar): 50°
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Report on the first ascent by a team via the West Face of Ullu-Kara Peak, a technically challenging rock route of 5th category difficulty.

172а

KSP Elbrus region

Report

on the first ascent in the technical class of the KSP Elbrus region team led by Nagorny S.I. ROUTE: peak ULLU-KARA via the center of the Western wall.

Main route characteristics table

DateDesignationSteepness in degreesLength in metersTerrain typeDifficultyConditionWeather conditionsRockIceBoltedStoppers, cams
August 17, 1979Processing the lower part of the wall. Exit from the plateau of the Kashka-Tash glacier at 8:00
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Report on the ascent of Ushba North Peak via the Northeast wall in 1975 by a team of climbers from the "Avangard" sports society, led by V. Monogarov.

COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE USSR Dedicated to the XXV Congress of the CPSU.

Ascent Report

On the ascent of the North peak of Ushba, 4695 m, via the North-East face; Central Caucasus; technically complex ascent category. COMPOSITION OF THE ASCENT GROUP:

  1. MONOGAROV V.D., Master of Sport, "AVANGARD"
  2. LAVRINENKO D.N., Master of Sport, "—"
  3. VOLYNSKY V.A., Master of Sport, "—"
  4. BERESNEV V.P., Candidate for Master of Sport, "—"
  5. KLATAEVSKY V.I., Candidate for Master of Sport, "—"
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Description of the ascent to Ushba North summit via the NW wall, complexity category 5B, climbed by the team in 1983.

Passport

I. Category — technical 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak — Ushba North via N.W. wall (4694 m) Kolomyttsev V.G. route 4. 5B cat. diff. — 2nd ascent of the "Silver" route in 1982 5. Height difference: 1700 m, length 2400 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 1240 m. Average steepness of main sections: 55° (3750–4660 m) of the route 47° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26 закладок — 21

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Report on the winter ascent of category 6A complexity via the North-West face of Severny Ushba on the Central Caucasus in 1991.

Ascent Passport

I. Winter ascent category 2. Central Caucasus 3. North Ushba, via the Northwest wall 4. Route 6A category of difficulty (route 181) 5. Elevation gain 1600 m, length — 2300 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1320 m. Average steepness of main sections — 58° (3800–4650), route: 49° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26, chocks — 6, ice screws — 85 7. Team's travel time: 23 hours and days — 3

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Description of the ascent route to the Ushba summit via the West wall, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed analysis of the tactics and technical actions of the team.

Passport

I. Climbing Category 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak YUZHNAYA USHBA via the West Face, Slesov's route 4. Category 5B, second ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1770 m, route length – 2585 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 920 m, average steepness of main sections – 65° 6. Pitons driven: rock, bolt, nut, ice 140, 0, 97, 20

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Report on the ascent of Ushba South via the Myshlyaev route, category 6A, with a detailed description of the route and technical details.

Moscow Alpine Championship 2016 High-altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the left part of the southwest wall (Myslyaev's Route) 6A category of complexity The teams from the Mountain Club "Alpindustria" together with the Alpine Federation of Samara Region on August 19–22, 2016 Moscow 2016

Ascent Passport

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Report on the ascent to the summit of Una Kinaba (4710 m) via the eastern part of the W-E Otten route, category 5B, in 1984 by the team from the Adyl-Su alpine camp.

m-t Kustovskogo
pr 540 n 17
09.10.84.
IV-th CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CAUCASIAN TERRITORIAL ADMINISTRATION
MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS
1984
CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Report

On the ascent to Ushba South summit (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall, category 5B, 3rd ascent of Kustovskiy's route from 1963 by a team of instructors from "Adyl-Su" alpine camp Ascent leader — Smirnov V.N.

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Ascent to the summit of Ushba (4710 m) via the right part of the NW wall along the Kustovsky Route, 6B category of difficulty, made by a team of 5 people in August 1993.

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus.
  3. Object of ascent — Ushba South peak (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall (Kustovsky route) 6B category of complexity.
  4. Height difference of the wall section — 580 m. Total height difference — 1460 m.
  5. Total route length — 1897.5 m, including sections of 5–6 category of complexity — 835.5 m.
  6. Average steepness of the route — 68°, including the wall section — 80°.
  7. Pitons hammered: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks |
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Description of the ascent route to Ushba South 4710 m peak via the right part of the 103 wall, category of complexity 5B, climbed by a team of climbers in 1988.

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical class
  2. Central Caucasus
  3. Ushba South peak 4710 m via the right part of the 103 wall (Kustovsky's route 7)
  4. Category of difficulty — 5B
  5. Height difference — 1450 m, length — 2170 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the route — 56°. Average steepness of the main sections — 80°
  6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |
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