1. Plieva via North-West Ridge, cat. 4A

Text on the diagram: P. PLIEVA BLACK TAKEOFF NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROPE TEAM 3rd ROCK TOWER 2nd ROCK ISLAND 1st ROCK ISLAND

Peak Cherevichenko - route description.

1. Approaches. From Vladikavkaz, take a vehicle to Tsey valley, then to Verkhniy Tsey village, after which move along the dirt road leading to the repeater. Before the last turn of the road directly to the repeater - there is a fork, the left branch goes off, with a spring as a landmark. Turn left, move another 2-3 km to the end of the road leading to the abandoned adit. A 4WD vehicle can ascend almost to the place where the road is blocked by a stone (there is a turnaround area). From there, move another 20 minutes along the road to the adit. Below the adit, a wide shelf is cut into the ground, where several tents can easily fit. There is water directly in the adit.

2) Route.

From the adit, move along a faintly expressed ridge (grassland, category 2 rocks) to the NE ridge of Peak Cherevichenko. Having reached the ridge, move southwest along the ridge line, in the direction of Pik Sadon. To Pik Sadon - category 2-3 rocks.

Peak Cherevichenko — route description.

1. Approaches. From Vladikavkaz, take a vehicle to Tsey valley, then to Verkhniy Tsey village, after which move along the dirt road leading to the repeater. Before the last turn of the road directly to the repeater — there is a fork, to the left a branch goes off, with a spring as a landmark. Turn left, move another 2–3 km to the end of the road leading to the abandoned adit.

• All-wheel drive vehicle can ascend almost to the place where the road is blocked by a stone (there is a turnaround area)
• From there, another 20 minutes moving along the road to the adit
• Below the adit, a wide shelf is cut into the ground, where several

Severnye Kaidzhany (3969 m)

(Peak of the Kazbek high-mountain region) The summit is located on the north-eastern spur of Peak Spartak (4510 m) (on the Kazbek plateau), where a number of peaks rise: Peak Ordzhonikidze (4005 m); Peak Iriston (3969 m), Chach-khokh (4098 m), Peak "3850", South Kaidzhany (3916 m), North Kaidzhany (3969 m) and Peak 25th anniversary of SKGMI (3865 m). From the city of Ordzhonikidze, the pointed peaks of Kaidzhany are clearly visible against the backdrop of Kazbek's snowy cap. Since 1947, the summit has been repeatedly visited by climbers from Ordzhonikidze. The most popular routes are from the south from the Chach gorge and along the North ridge. Description of the ascent route to North Kaidzhany from the south 1B – P-A cat. difficulty. Day 1. From the city of Ordzhonikidze, they drive for 1 hour to the village of Gvileti, from where they ascend along a wide pack trail to the confluence of the Amali and Chach-khi rivers (1 hour walk). After crossing the rickety bridge over the Amali River and overcoming the steep ascent of the trail, they turn right into the Chach gorge along the trail. The trail crosses to the left (orographic) bank of the Chach-khi River, where it is poorly defined. Gradually climbing higher up the slope, they reach the "sheep's foreheads". Having overcome the "sheep's foreheads" along one of the shelves dividing them, they need to move up the grassy slope under the rocks, where the trail is well-trodden. Moving along the rocks, they reach the shoulder forming the 1st "gates" of the gorge. From the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates" is 1 hour 30 minutes walk. The "sheep's foreheads" are passed with caution, with gymnastic belay. Along the trail, traversing grassy slopes and a number of scree couloirs, they reach the second "gates" in 50 minutes, which are a rocky defile in the river floodplain.

The descent from the trough to the Chach gorge takes an hour. The descent from the bivouac to the village of Gvileti takes 2–2.5 hours. From here, it is possible to return to the city of Ordzhonikidze by car in 1.5 hours.

Equipment recommended for a group of 4 people

1. Main ropes 30 m — 2 pieces.
2. Rock hooks — 10 pieces.
3. Group carabiners — 7 pieces.
4. Hammers — 2 pieces.

Description of the ascent route to South Kaidzhany from the South

1B - P - A cat. diff. Day 1. The route of the 1st day and the ascent to the trough of the Kaidzhany glacier completely coincides with the previous description. The bivouac location is in front of the "gates" of the Chach gorge. Day 2. Departure no later than 5:00. They go up the slope, leaving the mentioned couloir on the left. After the grassy slopes, they climb up the scree, climb onto the hill of the ancient terminal moraine of the glacier, and enter the glacier cirque.

South Kaidzhany (3916 m)

Peak of the Kazbek Highland Region

The peak South Kaidzhany is located between the peaks North Kaidzhany and Peak "3850 m" of the Eastern Lateral Ridge, north of the Kazbek massif. The peak has been visited repeatedly since 1947 by mountaineering groups from Ordzhonikidze. Most popular routes:

• Via the Northeast Ridge
• From the south, from the Chach gorge Below is a description of both routes:
• Description of the ascent route to South Kaidzhany via the Northeast Ridge
• 1B-P-A-cat. diff. Day 1. From Ordzhonikidze, the group arrives by car in 1 hour to the village of Gvileti, from where they ascend on a wide pack trail for 1 hour to the confluence of the Amali and Chach-khi rivers.

Route Description

Ascent to the unnamed peak (in North Ossetia, it is referred to as пик Орджоникидзевской железной дороги, or Ordzhonikidze Railway Peak) via the north-northeast ridge, category П-Б difficulty (4005 m) The peak is located in the watershed ridge (between the Genal-don and Чач-хи river basins), connecting the Казбекское плато (Kazbek plateau) to the south with пик Иристон (Iriston peak) and further to Чач-хох (Chach-khokh) to the north. The peak was first ascended in May 1952 by a group from the Ordzhonikidze Road Council "Lokomotiv" led by Yu. Polyakov, who traversed Кайджаны (Kaidzhana) - Чач-хох (Chach-khokh) - Майли-хох (Maili-khokh). As a standalone objective, the peak was first conquered on September 12, 1965, by a group of 9 climbers from the North Ossetian Council of the "Spartak" Sports Society, led by G. Eputaev and V. Kozlovsky (both 2nd sports category). The ascent was made from the Чачское ущелье (Chachskoye gorge) with an exit onto the north-northeast ridge of the peak. Day 1. The group drives by car to сел. Гвилети (Gvileti village), from where it takes no more than 1 hour on foot to reach the confluence of the Көбахи (Kobakhi) and Чач-хи (Chach-khi) rivers. After crossing the Көбахи river at the confluence and overcoming a steep ascent, they follow a trail into the right (Чачское, Chachskoye) gorge. Overcoming the "бараньи лбы ворот" ("ram's foreheads gates") via one of the shelves, they proceed up a grassy slope to a group of trees, where a trail begins. The trail leads into a wide couloir, crosses a stream, and then sharply turns right under the cliffs, following which it widens and leads to a shoulder forming the first "gates" of the gorge.

Sketch-map of the junction of the Tepli and Midagrabin groups with the Siveraut massif

Route Description

Ascent to the 5th peak of Siveraut, Peak "R" (3785 m) via the northern ridge, category III difficulty The Siveraut massif is an almost 10-kilometer wavy ridge stretching from northeast to southwest at the junction of the Midagrabin and Tepli groups of the Lateral Range of the Greater Caucasus. It has eight peaks, each assigned a letter index corresponding to the eight letters of the name (from Peak "S" in the northeast to Peak "T" at the southwestern end of the massif). The massif can be accessed by ascending to the upper reaches of:

• Zakkidon,
• Residon,
• Dzamarashdon, and Peak "S" can be climbed from the Midagrabin glacier.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak Yarydag 1st western peak via NW wall, through the "mirror". 4. Proposed difficulty category 5B (third ascent) 5. Height difference - 980 m 6. Route length - 1380 m Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 940 m. Average steepness - 80°, including 6th category complexity sections with 85°–95° (3490–3570), 90°–95°. 7. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts |

Fig. 12