Description

of the 3B category difficulty route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge. From the bivouac organized on the moraine of the western slopes of the summit "PESHIN", the group heads to the cairn of the "SNEZHNY" pass (the transition takes 30–40 minutes), from where the route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge is clearly visible. The route begins from the "SNEZHNY" pass, going vertically up the snow with initially gentle slopes, and then the steepness reaches 50–55°. Bypassing the lower rock outcrop:

• Bypassed on the left. Characteristics of the snow route:

110. Peak Shchurovskogo via North-Eastern Ridge (route by V. Pelevin, category 4B complexity). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) along the Shkhelda Glacier to the "Shkhelda bivouacs" is described in route 105. From the "Shkhelda bivouacs" cross the left branch of the Shkhelda Glacier upwards to the right and descend under the right side of the false Chatyn pass. From the glacier, ascend the steep snowy slope and through a bergschrund reach the rocks. Ascend along moderately difficult snowy rocks, then along easy terrain to the right side of the ridge saddle — the false Chatyn pass. From the saddle, turn right and move up along easy rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Peak Shchurovskogo. Bypass the

23. Khodzha Laizi from the south, route category III, fig. 10 (Mukhamedova E., with a group – 1953)

The route starts from the Khodzha-Obi-Garm resort along a grassy slope to the southern ridge of the summit. Climb along the ridge to a rocky gendarme, which does not present particular difficulties. Pass the next gendarme on the right through a couloir with black stones. The couloir leads to a grassy slope, at the top of which a large rocky spire is visible. KHODJA LAISI CORNISES (IN SPRING)! 23 RESORT Fig. 10. The grassy ridge narrows and leads to rocks. Reach the sub-summit along the ridge. Traverse complex sections on the left of the ridge along scree. Before the summit, the ridge has a steep step down, 5–7 m high, where it is necessary to set up a rope descent. Steep, smooth rocks lead to the summit ridge. Reach the summit along easy rocks. The ascent takes 6 hours. Descend from the summit to the left along scree into the cirque beneath Ular peak. In winter, descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

1. Khodzha Lokan (Mechta) via the west ridge, 4A cat. diff. route, fig. 2.

From the base camp, cross to the Kadam-Tash stream via Cheryotyrekh Pass. Then ascend the scree to the glacier located beneath the eastern wall of the summit. Cross the glacier plateau to Mechta Pass, where there are overnight stay areas. Descend from the pass down the glacier for 15–20 minutes. Before reaching the glacier's bend, ascend in the direction of:

• the bergschrund;
• two rock "islands";
• the ridge leading to the snowy saddle on the summit's west ridge. The ascent up the ice slope is done with alternating belays via ice screws. Higher up, belays are set using rock pitons hammered into the rocks of the "islands" and the ridge leading to the saddle. The ascent from the glacier to the saddle is 400 m. Above the saddle, the gendarme's wall is crowned with three peaks, between which two chimneys descend down the entire wall. Pass under the wall on the right via wide horizontal ledges and reach a couloir. Cross the couloir and ascend to the summit ridge via its right side. Follow the ridge (over rocks and snow) to the summit. The ascent from Mechta Pass to the summit takes 8–10 hours. The descent is from the summit via the ascent route. From the saddle, the descent is organized with rope retrieval down to the glacier. Then follow the glacier through the passes:

2. Khodzha Lokan (Dream) via the Eastern Wall, category 5A, fig. 2

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the Eastern Lednik Beloy Piramidy glacier, descend to the Kadam-Tash stream. Then, ascend the talus to the glacier located under the eastern wall of the peak. Fig. 2. Cross the glacier plateau, passing the bergschrund, to reach the Y-shaped couloir. Ascend the icy couloir along the rocks, then traverse the couloir leftwards and upwards, and continue up the left branch of the Y-shaped couloir to the wall, following the ice and snow to the end of the couloir. The exit from the couloir onto a narrow ledge via the wall is complex; then proceed left along the ledge and upwards through the rocks via a gully onto a wide, inclined ledge. The ledge has a convenient area for setting up a tent. Move right along the ledge, then ascend the icy couloir — the ice is glacial. Protection is provided by pitons. The couloir leads to a ridge (a fragment separated from the main wall). A "finger" is visible on the left. From here, ascend a chimney and continue up the rocks to an ice grotto. Traverse along a ledge, ascend a short wall, and then left and upwards along a narrow (up to 40 cm), inclined ledge for 8–10 m. Challenging! The inclination of the ledge increases leftwards up to 45°. Protection is provided by pitons. Ascend via an internal corner; the rocks are friable. Traverse right and upwards, then continue up the rocks to a convenient overnight platform. From the platform, ascend a complex wall; higher up, the slope eases, and snow may be present. Ascend the friable rocks to reach a steep snow slope. It drops away to the left. The steepness increases. Bypass a 5 m high rock wall on the right and ascend to the summit via a steep snow-and-ice ridge.

Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16. Recommended ascent route:

• Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16
• Photo 16. Section R17–R18. Rope descent. Photo 17. Entering the chimney R18–R19. Photo 18. Passing the chimney R19–R22.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: technical
2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE: Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Khodzha Lokan (4767 m) via the Western part of the South face
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: approximately VI category of difficulty
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS:
   • ELEVATION GAIN: 1170 m
   • LENGTH OF COMPLEX SECTIONS:
     • III — 50 m
     • IV — 250 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Upper Siam, Gissar ridge.
3. Peak, ascent route — South-South-East buttress of Khodzha Lokan peak, 4767 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 860 m, average steepness of the wall part — 77°.
6. Pitons hammered:

130

II. Khosilot.

Description of the ascent from the West via route 1Б (Category III)

I. Approaches.

The approaches to the start of the route are similar to those for the Yaghnobskaya Stena (main peak) route. It's also possible to exit directly under the route.

II. Ascent (from the camp in the upper Kanyon).

Move in the direction of the western wall of the peak, exiting onto the ridge beneath it. Along the wall, descend 300 meters. Here, a wide fracture of the peak's massif ends in a narrow couloir. A waterfall cascades down from the peak's plateau. The ascent path is to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall, via easy rock. Move simultaneously, but cautiously. After 1–1.5 hours, exit onto the plateau, in the eastern part of which, between two peaks, there is a connecting ridge, accessible via easy rock. From the connecting ridge, also on easy rock, move simultaneously. Descend from the peak via the ascent route. The ascent from camp to camp takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent was made in July 1971 by a group consisting of:

• Tkachev V.K., Candidate Master of Sports
• Kislov Yu., 3rd sports category