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  1. Peak Shchurovsky via the Southeast Ridge from the Ushba Plateau (route 2A category of difficulty). From the Shhelda alpine camp (a group of 4 — 20 people), ascent along the trail on the right slope of the Shhelda gorge, first through dense forest, then along grassy slopes, to the Shhelda glacier. 300 m above the glacier's tongue, exit onto the surface moraine. Follow the right moraine about 500 m up the gorge. Then exit the glacier to the right and follow the trail on the grassy slope, ascending along the glacier, past the clearing near the rocks with black stripes — "Aristov's Campsite", to the confluence of the Akhsu glacier with the Shhelda glacier from the right. Here, turn left and follow the median moraine of the glacier to approach the "Shhelda Campsite" — a flat area on the left side of the glacier on a rocky ledge at the foot of the West Ridge of Peak Vulle. The ascent to the campsite is possible from the left along a steep snowy slope or from the right along a steep scree. From the Shhelda alpine camp, 6–7 hours. From the "Shhelda Campsite", follow the glacier to exit under the left side of the Ushba icefall, closer to the rocks of Peak Shchurovsky. It is advisable to scout the ascent route through the icefall in advance. Having passed a little along the left side of the icefall (rockfall from the slopes of Peak Shchurovsky!), exit to the middle of the icefall and follow it, bypassing crevices to the right or left, to ascend to the snowy slope above the icefall. Along the snowy slope, bypassing a large crevice to the right, exit to the Ushba Plateau. Across the plateau (hidden crevices!), move left to exit under the Southeast Ridge of Peak Shchurovsky, which ascends along a snowy slope from the Ushba Plateau. From the "Shhelda Campsite", 6–10 hours. From the plateau (without backpacks), ascend 200 m up the snowy-icy slope on the left side of the Southeast Ridge of Peak Shchurovsky. Further, 200–250 m up a simple, sharp snowy ridge (cornices!) and along 150-meter simple rocky sections of the ridge — the ascent to Peak Shchurovsky. From the Ushba Plateau, 2–3 hours.

Descent follows the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3 days. Additional equipment:

  • 3–4 ice screws
  • Crampons for all participants
  • Tents — to the Ushba Plateau. (Baksan Valley), A.F. Naumov

Sources

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