(the route is combined, Mt. Melia, 4A cat. dif., Fig. 5). From Vakhušti (milestones 82–85) along the snow and ice (cornices) Northern ridge-slope, having passed an ice crevasse, descend to a saddle. From the saddle, along the snow and ice slope approach under the first "saw-tooth" pinnacle of the Southern ridge of Inguri peak. Along a simple couloir bypass the pinnacle from the left and ascend behind it onto a snow saddle (cornice). Further along the boundary of the snow and ice slope, along the rocks on the right side of the Southern ridge bypass II–IV "saw-tooth" pinnacles. Then along the snow slope 60–80 m up to the site of a rocky "island" on a wide snow and ice saddle of the Southern ridge. Make a bivouac on the site. From "Aylama" alpbase 7–8 hrs. From the site along the ruined and jagged rocks of the 250–300-meter Southern ridge, bypassing or overcoming head-on 10–12-meter pinnacles along steep rocks of above average difficulty, exit onto a pinnacle-tower. Further 250–300 m along the jagged Southern ridge of average difficulty, overcoming head-on 5–8-meter pinnacles and bypassing the last large pinnacle of the second "saw" along steep rocks on the right, exit onto a saddle under the Pre-summit pinnacle. Along a steep smooth plate of above average difficulty 20–30 m up. Then along the rocks of average difficulty bypass the pinnacle's summit on the right and along the sharp snow (cornice) Southern ridge descend onto a sharp snow and ice (cornice) ridge. Having passed the saddle, traverse a steep snow and ice slope to the right onto the Southeastern counterforce and along simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeastern counterforce ascend onto Inguri summit. From Vakhušti summit 5–7 hrs.

126. Jangitau Main via South Face (combined route, G. Kartvelishvili, 5B cat. diff., fig. 20, 22). From the bivouac on the top of the Central Rocky Island of the Southwest Wall "Kunal" of Jangitau massif (route 125), turn left and along the left side of the broken oblique glacier of the South Face of Jangitau, approach the South Ridge of Jangitau Main. Ascent:

• Steep snow-covered rocks or a narrow ice-snow gully
• Ascend 70–80 m
• Reach the South Ridge Here, turn right and along steep snow-covered slopes of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the bastion wall. Bypass the bastion from the left and exit to the South Ridge behind it. Further, ascend steep rocks above medium difficulty on the South Ridge with challenging walls. After passing the scree, ascend to the summit of Jangitau Main via an ice-snow slope. 8 hours from the bivouac Fig. 22. From Shkhara Western to Lyalver and Tetnuldi

130. Lakutsa via the West Ridge — slope (the route is combined, category 2B, fig. 20, 22). From the village of Jabiashi upstream along the trail on the left bank of the Tsanner River. Go around the tongue of the Tsanner Glacier and the first stage of the icefall, then descend onto the glacier. Go upstream along the glacier to beneath the second stage of the icefall, which is climbed on the left side. Then traverse the glacier up and to the right and approach the icefall of the Nagebski Glacier. Having climbed the icefall, exit onto the upper plateau of the glacier via a glaciated area (closed crevasses) onto the medial moraine — the Nagebskie Ploshchadki. Bivouac. From the village of Jabiashi 10–14 hours. From the moraine, traverse the plateau to beneath the right side of the saddle connecting Tetnuld with

26. Machhapuchhare via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A difficulty, fig. 5, 7). From the upper meadows below Sharyvcek Pass (point 18), traverse right across the moraine, snow slopes, scree, and over the moraine to the Machhapuchhare glacier below the Northwest slopes of Machhapuchhare peak. From the glacier, ascend a steep snow/ice slope to the left side of the base of the West buttress of Machhapuchhare’s Southwest ridge (belay). Then 120–140 m up a steep snow/ice slope on the left side of the West buttress (pitons) to a saddle on the Southwest ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend easy, broken rock on the Southwest ridge, overcoming gendarmes and short walls with steep, straightforward simple rock climbing (“live” rocks, belay), and ascend scree and easy, broken rock to the summit of Machhapuchhare. 4–7 hours from the Upper meadows.

47

Ascent Record 3A (№)

1. Ascent category — Technical
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks p. Nuam-Kuam (4182 m) via S.W. edge
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1200 m, average steepness, complex section length 20 m; 25 m;
5. Pitons hammered: rock – 18
6. Number of travel hours – 17
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics – 1 lying overnight stay

ASCENT CERTIFICATE.

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range, Inguri gorge.
3. Nuam-Kuam, 4153, via S.W. spur.
4. Presumed category difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m sections of 5th difficulty grade — 100 m average steepness — 45 °
6. Pitons driven:

19. Passismta via the North Face (combined route, category III difficulty, fig. 5, 6). From Tskhsinitskali Glacier (№ 18), ascend the snowy-ice slope to the bergschrund below Passismta's North Face. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, then ascend a steep ice-snow slope for 80–100 m (avalanche risk, pitons) to the lower crevasse, which is traversed using snow bridges (piton usage). Continue 200–300 m up a steep ice-snow slope (avalanche risk, pitons) to the upper crevasse, which is more easily traversed on the left. Then ascend 150–200 m up and left on the ice-snow slope (belay) under the icy rock couloir on the left side of the summit tower. Ascend 60–80 m up the steep couloir of moderate difficulty (piton usage) to reach the Northeast Ridge. Turn right here and ascend via the snowy plateau and easy broken rocks to the summit of Passismta. 4–7 hours from the glacier.

Passport

1. Ice and snow ascent class.
2. Central Caucasus, Southern lateral spur of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Tetnuld, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1780 m, length 2190 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 1768 m. Average steepness of main sections is 55° (R1–R2, R4–R14), including 6 category of difficulty 85–110° for 130 m (R12–R14).
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 1
   • ice: 232

250 m up to the saddle of the Western ridge of the Tichtengen summit. From the Kitlod glacier - about 1 hour. The approach from the Chegem tourist base to the saddle of the Western ridge is carried out from the Kulak glacier. The path to the upper plateau of this glacier is described in route 233. From the upper plateau along a steep ice-snow slope with a bergschrund in the lower part - a simple ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge. On the saddle (when ascending from the Kitlod glacier) turn right and ascend along a simple snow-covered rocky Western ridge. Bypass the ridge's gendarme by traversing 40-45 m to the right along steep rocks of medium difficulty.

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.