5th cat. diff. free climbing 26.10.82 sect. 519.14 197a 11th Championship of the Caucasus Territorial Administration of Alpine Camps 1982 Rock Climbing Category

Report

North-West Federal District Championship 2022 (altitude-technical class) Report on the ascent to the summit Ural (V), 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern buttress, V. Makarov, 1986, category 5B The route was completed by the team from Murmansk-Voronezh

Ascent Details

1. Western Caucasus, 2.5. From Kithlod pass to Gezhevtsek pass (from the north of the Main Caucasian Range).
2. Ural (V) peak, 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern buttress.
3. Route type — rock climbing.
4. Route length ≈ 860 m. Section lengths: ≈ category V — 550 m, ≈ category VI — 260 m. Average steepness of the entire route ≈ 65°. Average steepness of the wall section ≈ 80°.

151. Shaurtu Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category III, Figures 14, 16, 17) The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) or from the "Chegem" tourist base to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Salynan pass is described in route 154. At the pass, turn right (when ascending from Bezengi) and exit onto the Southwest Ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From here, there is a small descent to the right and a traverse of the first pinnacle along the ledges. Beyond it, ascend steep 15-20-meter rocks of moderate difficulty (pitched climbing) up to the saddle of the Southwest Ridge. From the saddle, ascend along the simple, heavily destroyed Southwest Ridge with numerous low pinnacles or along the ledges on its right side (belaying). Then, bypassing a large square rock on the right along a steep snow-ice slope (belaying), move to the left side of the Southwest Ridge. Further, bypassing numerous pinnacles (mainly on the left) along the snow-ice slope (belaying), ascend along the long, rugged Southwest Ridge to the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From the saddle of the Salynan pass - 6-8 hours.

Fig. 17

Ascent Passport

I. Class of ice and snow ascents 2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi 3. Peak Shota Rustaveli - 4960 m via North face (route by A. V. Laletin) 4. 5B category, fourth ascent 5. Total height difference of the route is 1360 m. Height difference of the wall section is 1200 m. Average steepness of the wall section is 48°. Route length is 2565 m. Length of the wall section is 1755 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 1445 m. 6. Pitons hammered: Ice pitons for belay - 250, ITO - 9. Rock pitons for belay - 13.

Shkhara

via the northern edge, cat. 5B Team M.G.S. "SPARTAK" July 13-18, 1965 Coach and leader - SHATAEV V.N. Shkhara northern edge

Ascent

July 13. From the alpine camp, the path goes up along the trail and the Besengi glacier moraine to Misses-Kosh. We set out fairly early (5:00) hoping to rest well at the "Austrian" campsite and get to know the character of Shkhara. No wind. Only the uларs disturb the peace with their morning songs. The path is familiar only to the leader; the others are going to Shkhara for the first time. Turning left from the confluence of the Eastern and Western branches of the Besengi glacier along the coastal moraine, we approached the red rocks, from which we reached the campsite in half an hour. Gusty winds were shaking the tent of a group of Leningraders climbing Shkhara via the Eastern edge - cat. 4B. We set up the tent behind a rock, and while preparing lunch, Shataev-Karchewski went out to examine the approach route and the exit to the edge.

www.alp-federation.ru

2. Group Composition and Support

The mountaineering group that completed the traverse consisted of athletes with the 1st sports category from the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering, held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp:

1. Saratov Yu.S. — group leader,
2. Beda A.G.,
3. Golubkov B.S.,
4. Daruga V.K. Three of the group members had experience climbing in the Bezengi region in previous seasons. All participants underwent joint training during the pre-camp period and completed training ascents:

• 3B — Ullu-Auz-Bashi
• 4B — Main Jangitaus via the northern edge, category of complexity in the 1964 season.

• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier valley. KMGV section number: 2.5
• Peak: 4443 via the Southwest couloir and Northwest ridge.
• Category of complexity: proposed 4A category, first ascent.
• Route character: combined.
• Height difference: about 1000 m.
• Route length: about 1500 m, including:
  • length of rock sections IV — 25 m,
  • rock sections III — 45 m,
  • ice sections with a slope of at least 40° — 200 m.
• Number of pitons used:

Open Summer Championship of St. Petersburg on mountaineering 2004

Report

on the ascent to v. Galdor Main (4130 m) by the Southeast wall, 5B category of difficulty of the youth team of St. Petersburg on mountaineering Head Coach Koltunov O. S. Lobachev E. A.

2004

Contact Information:

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.