I. Category of first ascent. 2.2.10. Dagestan Mountains, South Dagestan, Shalbuzdagsky ridge. 3. Shalbuzdag Northwest, 4000 m, via the terrace of the West wall, rock route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, category 3B complexity (first ascent attempt). 5. Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain: 300 m.
• Length of sections:
• 2nd category complexity — 550 m.
• 3rd category complexity — 200 m.
• 4th category complexity — 90 m.

I. The route is combined 2. East Caucasus 2.9. 3. Mt. Shalbuzdag (4142) via the Western ridge. 4. Proposed category of difficulty 3A. 5. Route characteristics a. Height difference: 750 m b. Average steepness of main sections: 40° c. Length: 1340 m. (I category — 580 m; II category — 560 m; III category — 120 m; IV category — 80 m) 6. Pitons driven: - rock: 9

I. ASCENT REPORT (2nd ascent)

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, northern spurs of the Main Caucasian Range
3. Peak — Shalbuzdag Main, 4142 m, via the south face
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A
5. Height difference — 300 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 65 m, average steepness — 63°
6. Rock pitons hammered in — 9, chocks placed — 26, runner protection loops hung — 8
7. Number of moving hours — 8
8. Korenn A.V. 2nd sports category, leader Konovalov Yu.V. 2nd sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
3. Shalbuzdag Central, 4142 m, via the center of the SW wall, through the cornice, rock route.
4. 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 48
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 280 m, wall — 150 m (from 3860 m to 4010 m), average steepness of the route — 53°, wall — 77°. Route length — 575 m, wall — 180 m. Section lengths: 2 – 100 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 90 m, 5 – 97 m, including 24 m on artificial climbing holds (ITCH), 6 – 38 m (on ITCH); total climbing on ITCH — 62 m, with difficulty: A1 — 8 m, A2 — 36 m, A3 — 18 m.
6. Equipment used on the route:
   • rock pitons 34/18
   • including 7 at belay stations
   • chocks 57/40

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

I. Climbing category — rock. 2. Region, mountain range — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur mountain range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — U. Avetisyan peak, 3685 m, via the eastern ridge. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B. 5. Route description: height difference — 220 m, length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 5 m, average steepness — 45°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay — 18 (0); rock pitons — 2 (0); ice screws — 4 (0); chocks — 3 (0). 7. Total climbing time — 11 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak of brothers Alakhanyan, 3710 m, via the right couloir of the northern wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 13 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered in: for belay — 41(0); rock — 11(0); ice — 18(0); chocks — 12(0).
7. Number of travel hours — 9.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangезur ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — peak of the Alihanyan brothers, 3710 m, via the right counterfort of the north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 420 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 80 m, average steepness — 65°.
6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent region, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pik Brat'ev Alikhanyan, 3710 m, via the right edge of the north face.
4. Proposed category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 110 m, average steepness — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered:

22

ALPINISM GROUP ALP/KLUB "KUTH"

Material on the first ascent of the route: "peak Kozelsky via the western edge, category 2B difficulty" The peak "Kozelsky" is located 20 km from the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky in a group of three peaks:

• peak "Koryakskaya sopka"
• peak "Avachinskaya sopka"
• peak "Kozelsky" at 53° north latitude.

Ascent plan for peak "Kozelsky"

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.