ASCENT RECORD

1. Climbing category — ice and snow.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Ullu-Kara, 4302 m, via the right part of the north-eastern wall, ice and snow route.
4. Proposed difficulty category 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1300 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 170 m, average steepness 47°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 13, ice screws — 60, protection gear — not used.
7. Total climbing hours — 19.
8. Number and nature of bivouacs: one, lying down.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Ullu-Kara via the left part of the north-eastern wall (first ascent).
4. Difficulty category: 5B, approximate.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1545 m.
   • height difference — 1300 m.
   • average steepness — 47°.
   • length of sections with 5.6 difficulty category — 500 m

B.­Yuy­yu­ka­ra

on the left side of the NW wall

Ascent Record

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ФЕДЕРАЦИЯ АЛЬПИНИЗМА РОССИИ

1. Ascent category: technically challenging
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: Malaya Ushba via the western ridge 4320 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • altitude difference: 320 m

ASCENT DOCUMENT

First Ascent Category — TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE USHBA PLATEAU USHBA MALAYA 4309 m VIA NORTH-EAST RIDGE Proposed difficulty category: 3B Height difference — 200 m (from the plateau) Length of 5A category difficulty sections — 5 m

Ushba Malaya (174) 4200 m, cat. diff., k, via 233 ridge

From the AUSB "Elbrus" along the Shkheldinsky valley to the Ushba icefall and further to the Ushba plateau. From the saddle between Bolshaya and Malaya Ushba, approach the start of the route via snow. The route starts to the right of the double couloir. The landmark is a snow-covered vertical chimney that ends with a "finger" clearly visible on the ridge. Climb up an 8-meter wall with a steepness of 85° and few holds, using piton belay (difficult climbing). From this point, traverse right under an overhanging red wall (20 m) along an inclined grey ledge. Then, climb straight up a 5-meter vertical wall and make a pendulum traverse to a vertical chimney. Climb straight up the chimney (piton belay, difficult climbing, rime ice) — 40 m. The chimney leads to the beginning of the shoulder on the western ridge. At the exit to the shoulder — on the "finger" — there's a control cairn. Further along the ridge, traverse snow-covered rocks of medium difficulty with variable belay (no выступы) — exit to the summit (7 ropes). From the plateau to the summit: 5–6 hours. The descent via route 2B cat. diff. is described in Naumov's book "Baksan Valley". Leader: N.N. Kiyantsia.

Yu­da Ma­ras

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — ROCK
2. Ascent region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS
3. Peak, its height, route — MALAYA USHBA, 4200 m, via the SOUTHWEST BUTTRESS, COMBINED
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m route length — 860 m length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 242 m average steepness of the route — 59°

1985 RSFSR Championship. First Ascent Category

Malaia Ushba 4200 m. via the Southwest Buttress, cat. 5B (approx.) First ascent. Team from the Kursk Regional Sports Committee. Team Leader — Valentin Alexandrovich Kudryavtsev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st category. Team Coach — Valentin Alexandrovich Kudryavtsev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st category. 1985.

Addresses and Phone Numbers

Organizations: 305000, Kursk, Krasnaya Square, 6. Kursk Regional Sports Committee.

250. Ushba Severnaya via the South ridge from the east (combined route, D. Kokkin, cat. 4A, fig. 32, 36, 37). From beneath the Southeast edge of Ushba Severnaya peak (route 249) traverse up-left to reach a cirque beneath overhanging cliffs - the Kokkin bivouac. From the Gulskie ploshchadki 4-6 hrs. From here, move along the edge of ice and rock. From a large crevasse, it is easier to reach the middle part of the glacier and from there (avalanches) 400-500 m up to the saddle (cornice). From the Kokkin bivouac 3-8 hrs. Here, turn right and follow the snowy ridge of the saddle (cornices), pass the North gendarme head-on or bypass it on the right, and reach the rocky areas at the base of the North ridge of Ushba Severnaya peak, located to the left of the approaching snowy ridge of the saddle. From the area 30-40 m up-left onto the South ridge. Over simple and moderately difficult, ruined, snow-covered rocks of the 300-350-meter South ridge ascend to Ushba Severnaya peak. From the saddle 2-4 hrs. From the saddle, it is possible to ascend along the snowy ridge, then along the snowy-icy slope on the right side of the South ridge.

1. Pivushka
2. Nastenko Rocks
3. Snezhnaya — ice trainer — overnight stays

   N.

NORTHERN UZHBA — 4B cat. climbing route. The height of the summit is 4694 m. The Uzhba massif is located somewhat south of the Main Caucasian Range in Upper Svaneti. To the northwest of Uzhba lies the Shkhielda summit massif, to the north — Shchurovskogo Peak, to the east — Chatyn-Tau.