Ushba Malaya (174) 4200 m, cat. diff., k, via 233 ridge
From the AUSB "Elbrus" along the Shkheldinsky valley to the Ushba icefall and further to the Ushba plateau.
From the saddle between Bolshaya and Malaya Ushba, approach the start of the route via snow. The route starts to the right of the double couloir. The landmark is a snow-covered vertical chimney that ends with a "finger" clearly visible on the ridge.
Climb up an 8-meter wall with a steepness of 85° and few holds, using piton belay (difficult climbing).
From this point, traverse right under an overhanging red wall (20 m) along an inclined grey ledge. Then, climb straight up a 5-meter vertical wall and make a pendulum traverse to a vertical chimney.
Climb straight up the chimney (piton belay, difficult climbing, rime ice) — 40 m. The chimney leads to the beginning of the shoulder on the western ridge. At the exit to the shoulder — on the "finger" — there's a control cairn. Further along the ridge, traverse snow-covered rocks of medium difficulty with variable belay (no выступы) — exit to the summit (7 ropes).
From the plateau to the summit: 5–6 hours. The descent via route 2B cat. diff. is described in Naumov's book "Baksan Valley".
Leader: N.N. Kiyantsia.
Yuda Maras
