- Ushba Severnaya via the South ridge from the east (combined route, D. Kokkin, cat. 4A, fig. 32, 36, 37). From beneath the Southeast edge of Ushba Severnaya peak (route 249) traverse up-left to reach a cirque beneath overhanging cliffs - the Kokkin bivouac. From the Gulskie ploshchadki 4-6 hrs. From here, move along the edge of ice and rock. From a large crevasse, it is easier to reach the middle part of the glacier and from there (avalanches) 400-500 m up to the saddle (cornice). From the Kokkin bivouac 3-8 hrs. Here, turn right and follow the snowy ridge of the saddle (cornices), pass the North gendarme head-on or bypass it on the right, and reach the rocky areas at the base of the North ridge of Ushba Severnaya peak, located to the left of the approaching snowy ridge of the saddle. From the area 30-40 m up-left onto the South ridge. Over simple and moderately difficult, ruined, snow-covered rocks of the 300-350-meter South ridge ascend to Ushba Severnaya peak. From the saddle 2-4 hrs. From the saddle, it is possible to ascend along the snowy ridge, then along the snowy-icy slope on the right side of the South ridge.
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