40. Peak Tikhonov via NW ridge — 4A cat. diff. (V. Lubenets, V. Volchenko, L. Kalishevsky, I. Kunaev, V. Lebedev, V. Nikolaenko, A. Ovchinnikov and A. Sevostyanov — August 23, 1951). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the overnight stay on the Southern ridge of the Utug spire is described in route 18. From the overnight stay:

• Descent to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall
• Crossing the glacier to the right towards the Northern counterforce of Peak Tikhonov
• Through the bergschrund — ascent up the steep 150-meter snowy slope to the saddle

53. Traversing Pik Tikhonov - Koshtantau with ascent to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort - Category 5A (E. Abalakov and V. Miklyashevsky - August 25-29, 1938; Figs. 10, II, 13, 17). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort is described in route 40. From Pik Tikhonov, descend via simple, crumbling rocks and a snowy slope to the saddle on the Eastern Ridge. Set up a bivouac on the saddle. From the initial bivouac - 8-9 hours. From the bivouac:

• Ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the first gendarme on the Western Ridge of Koshtantau.
• Traverse or circumvent the second and third gendarmes along the ridge or via ledges and slopes on their right side, reaching the saddle below the fourth gendarme.
• From the saddle, ascend a 60-meter ridge and a 5-meter chimney to reach the ledges.
• Traverse the ledges to the right and upwards to reach the Southern Counterfort of the fourth gendarme.
• Ascend the counterfort, bypassing a rocky "finger" on the left via ledges, to reach the gendarme and descend to the Western Ridge. The fourth gendarme can be circumvented on the right:
• Descend 10 meters down the wall to the right while traversing it.

55. Tyutyunta peak from the south - category 4A. difficult see description 43 for the path from the Bezengi alp camp. On the flat areas near the narzan springs - bivouac. From the overnight stays:

• upwards - left along the scree and moraine,
• then upwards along the snowy couloir to the fifth saddle between the Tyutyunta peak and its third sentinel of the South ridge. From the saddle:
• a 40-meter descent to the east along rocks of medium difficulty and a snowy slope to the

4. Ukyu via NW ridge, 3A category

The ascent to the saddle between Gidan and Ukyu is described in route 2. From the saddle, traverse right, bypassing the first rocks along a snowy slope and then along a wide, crumbling ridge to the wall of the 1st "gendarme." Traverse left along a 6–7 m inclined ledge and then climb 20–25 m with piton protection up a steep internal angle (caution! — ice is possible) to a ridge with good rock features. Continue along the line of the gentle ridge with solid and reliable rock features (caution! — do not descend to the left onto ledges below the ridge — the rocks here are heavily broken and the features are unreliable). Descend from the upper point along a rocky ridge and snowy slope to a wide saddle. In an emergency, it is possible to abandon the route from here via the S couloir. From the saddle, ascend to the summit of Maly Ukyu across snow and simple rocks (caution — ice is possible). Continue along the ridge and descend to the left of the ridge along a rocky couloir and snowy slope to a pre-summit saddle. It is also possible to abandon the route from here via the second S couloir. From the saddle, ascend a 40–50 m snow-ice slope, then traverse rocks on a wide ridge to a gentle "shoulder." From there, ascend a snowy-icy slope to the S ridge. Traverse left along the ridge for 30–40 m to the summit. The ascent from the saddle takes 6–8 hours. Descend along the SE ridge as described previously. Hazardous locations: on ledges to the left of the ridge, beyond the 1st "gendarme," the rocks are heavily broken. Special equipment:

• 5–7 rock pitons
• 2–3 ice screws
• crampons for all participants

Ukyu on the center of the 3rd wall of the S ridge, 3B.

The approach to the route is as described previously. The ascent begins via a couloir separating the left edge and the central buttress of the 3rd wall of the S ridge (be careful! - rockfall hazard). Before reaching the mouth of the couloir, exit to the right across the broken rocks to the ridge line. Then follow the ridge line to the end of the clearly defined buttress. Above the control cairn (Fig. 2) lies the route's wall section. Two options are possible. 1st - to the right of the ridge along the internal angle with an exit to the right and further up to the beginning of a sloping ledge 30-35 m. 2nd - to leave the ridge via a ledge to the left and ascend the wall, first straight up, then diagonally traversing right - up to exit onto the same sloping ledge. Along the ledge right and up 30 m, then straight up 150-180 m along the left wall of an internal angle with a steepness of about 60° with monolithic simple rocks (be careful! - shaded side, areas with formed ice are possible) to exit onto the edge of the 3rd wall. From the start of the route 6-8 hours. Further - as described previously. Depending on the conditions on the route, 25-40 points of piton protection are required. Descent along the SE ridge as described in 3 - 1.5-2 hours.

Hazardous areas

In the couloirs bordering the buttress, rockfall hazard; on the S ridge - overhanging cornices to the right are possible.

Special equipment

Rock pitons (including wedges) 12-15 pcs., working carabiners 10-12 pcs., loops made of main rope 2-3 pcs. (for extenders and protection on ledges).

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezen­gi area, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To Mt. Malaya Ukyu, height 4240 m, via the couloir and the northwest ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference: 800 m.
6. 2 rappel loops left on the route.
7. Moving time: 8 hours.
8. Leader: Slot­yuk A.A., CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports), participants: Ryab­ov I.V., MSIC (Master of Sports of International Class), Ryab­ov S.I., III sports category.
9. Coach: Slot­yuk A.A.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range
3. Peak: Malaya Ukyu (4240 m) via the left southern counterfort
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, average steepness — 33°, section lengths:
   • 2A — 150 m
   • 2B — 170 m
   • 3A — 330 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock (up to 4250 m).
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge.
3. Peak: East Ural (4150 m) via the counterfort of the North wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 550 m. average steepness: 67°. section lengths: 4th grade – 200 m, 5th grade – 245 m (including 5B and 6th grade – 210 m).
6. Pitons driven: | | For belay | For creating ITO | |---------------------|---------------|------------------|

200 198

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of MGHR. 2.3.
3. Peak: Ural (Western) (4300 m).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 45, pr. 507, p.4, 26/5–81.
5. Route character: combined. Height difference: 520 m. Average steepness: 63°. Length of sections: 4th cat. diff. — 155 m; 5th cat. diff. — 265 m; (of which 5B and 6 cat. diff. — 80 m)

13. The Eastern summit of peak Ural via the Northern wall — 4A cat. dif. (A. Ryabukhin, N. Levchenko, V. Samokhvalov and O. Trubnikova — July 15, 1963; Fig. 3A). The path from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to the Zelyonaya glade below Maly Ukju glacier see in description 1. From the glade, ascent to the moraine to the right of a lowering in its ridge, traverse it to avoid a glacial lake, then exit to Maly Ukju glacier and ascend it. In an hour, to the right of the Southern counterfort of Ukju peak, exit the glacier to the left onto the moraine below the southern slopes of the peak. There is a bivouac on the moraine. From the “Bezengi” alpine camp — 5–6 hours. From the moraine (in crampons! roped up!) cross the glacier and ascend to the right of the central couloir of peak Ural