- Tyutyunta peak from the south - category 4A.
difficult
see description 43 for the path from the Bezengi alp camp. On the flat areas near the narzan springs - bivouac.
From the overnight stays:
- upwards - left along the scree and moraine,
- then upwards along the snowy couloir to the fifth saddle between the Tyutyunta peak and its third sentinel of the South ridge.
From the saddle:
- a 40-meter descent to the east along rocks of medium difficulty and a snowy slope to the glacier,
- from the glacier along the ice-snow slope (running belay! avalanches!) 500–600 m upwards,
- icefalls in the center of the slope are bypassed on the left.
- overcoming several 2–5-meter ice rises,
- exit to a small snowy plateau.
From the plateau:
- through the bergschrund along the snowy slope, a 200-meter ascent to the rocky-snowy ridge,
- along the ridge, exit to the Tyutyunta peak.
On the summit - bivouac. From the initial bivouac - 8–II hours. Descent along the ascent route.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants - 4–8 people.
- Initial bivouac - sandy areas near the narzan springs in the Krumkol gorge.
- Departure time - 4:00–5:00
- Equipment: main rope - 2×30 m; reepschnur - 10 m; rock pitons - 3–4; ice screws - 5–7; rock hammer - 2; carabiners - 10–12; crampons - 4 pairs; tent - 1.
- Bivouac locations - on the saddle, on a small snowy plateau and on the summit.