Fig. 8 29. Dop­pakh Wes­tern from the south via the couloir and the Eas­tern ridge (A. Uva­rov’s com­bined rou­te, dif­fi­cul­ty ca­te­go­ry 3B, fig. 8). From the “Na­khash­bi­ta” meadow (group of 4–8 peo­ple) up­wards to the left (to the north-west) along the gra­ssy slopes and mo­re­nes to the tongue of the South Dop­pakh gla­cier. From the mo­re­na (se­cu­ri­ty) up a steep icy slope to the South Dop­pakh gla­cier and along it up­wards. A small gla­cier fall in the mid­dle part of the gla­cier — pass through the cen­ter. Be­hind the gla­cier fall, as­cend along the gen­tly slo­ping gla­cier (co­vered cre­vas­ses), then, over­co­ming two berg­schrunds, along a steep icy-snow slope (pit­on se­cu­ri­ty) move to the right side of the low­est rock tri­an­gu­lar is­land on the left side of the cou­loir lea­ding to the mas­sif’s sad­dle. Cir­cum­vent the rock is­land to the right and along a steep nar­ro­wing icy-snow cou­loir (rock­fall pos­si­ble, pit­on se­cu­ri­ty) as­cend to the sharp snow (big cor­nice) sad­dle of the mas­sif be­tween the Wes­tern and Cen­tral Dop­pakh sum­mits. On the sad­dle, turn left and reach a snow plat­form be­low the Eas­tern ridge of the Wes­tern Dop­pakh. On the plat­form, set up a bi­vouac. From the “Na­khash­bi­ta” meadow, 6–8 hours. From the plat­form:

• a steep as­cent along a 60–80-me­ter icy-snow slope on the right side of the Eas­tern ridge (pit­on se­cu­ri­ty);
• then, along the right side of a 180–200-me­ter sim­ple snow ridge, as­cend to a small snow plat­eau;
• from it, over­co­ming a snow cre­vas­se along a gen­tly slo­ping 120–150-me­ter snow ridge — to the sum­mit of Wes­tern Dop­pakh.

Fig. 8 30. Tsentralnyi Doppakh via West Ridge (I. Suzhaev's combined route, category 4B, Fig. 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on a snowy site under the East Ridge of West Doppakh is described in route 29. From the site, cross the col (cornice) along the snowy ridge, then approach the base of the first rocky ascent of the West Ridge of Tsentralnyi Doppakh along the steep snowy ridge. Further:

• Ascend the 6–8-meter icy slab of the ascent (piton belay);
• Bypass the overhanging rocks on the right;
• Ascend an 8-meter slab-like, above-average-difficulty rock corner with few footholds (piton belay) to the West Ridge. Along the heavily cut, destroyed, and snow-covered, average-difficulty 120–150-meter West Ridge, approach the first "gendarme". Ascend the 18–20-meter wall of average difficulty to reach the gendarme. Descend left from the gendarme. Then, traverse the steep rocks on the left side (belays) to bypass two needle-like gendarmes and rejoin the West Ridge. Continuing along the West Ridge:
• Bypass a smooth slab — a gendarme — via a 4–5-meter traverse on the left;

Fig. 39

3. Ascent to the summit of Glavny Ptysh via the "tie" — beyond the category of difficulty (see Fig. 39)

From the Ptyshsky pass, move right along the glacier (protection!) towards a large rocky ridge. Ascend the rocky ridge 40–50 m upwards to a bivouac. From the pass, it takes 1 hour. From the bivouac, ascend 90–100 m upwards along the broken rocks (rockfall hazard!), exit onto a snowy slope with a steepness of 35–40°, and from there, move right-upwards towards a rocky outcrop. Ascend 50–60 m up the rocky outcrop (protection via protrusions!), exit onto a steep snowy slope (45°), and from there, cross a bergschrund onto a rocky outcrop in the "tie" couloir. Ascend 40 m up the rocks (protection via protrusions!), then traverse the steep snowy couloir leftwards (protection!), and exit onto rocks. Ascend 60 m up the rocks (protection via protrusions!) to a steep snowy slope (60–65°), and from there, ascend 180–200 m straight upwards (protection!) to a platform to the right of a gendarme. To the right of the gendarme, ascend scree, then move left behind the gendarme along rocks of medium difficulty towards a narrow icy couloir. Cross the couloir leftwards (piton protection!), exit onto rocks of medium difficulty, and ascend straight upwards onto a ridge. Ascend to the summit along the broken rocks of the ridge. From the bivouac on the rocky outcrop to the summit, it takes 6 hours. The descent follows the ascent route and takes 5–6 hours. The route from the bergschrund to the summit is prone to rockfall!

Recommendations for climbers

1. The number of participants in a group should not exceed 6 people.
2. The initial bivouac is on a rocky ridge.
3. Departure time from the bivouac should not be later than 4 am.

M29. Brick via the Western Wall along the gullies

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by G. Sedov's team, 1969) The ascent to the plateau of the Myrdy Glacier is described in route M16. Move along the glacier to beneath the snowy slopes at the center of the western wall. The right-hand end of the wall "diamond" with black streaks on completely smooth walls, topped with an oblique series of cornices, is the landmark for the route's entrance. To the right of the cornices on the wall is a huge gully (do not enter — loose rocks!). In the next, narrower gully, on its right side, stands a separate rock resembling an enormous bottle with a neck tilted to the left — this is the landmark for the route's entrance. Below, to the right of the "bottle," are two rock formations forming the bases of counterforts-ribs ("gates"). Between them is a narrow snowy "tie." The left counterfort is the lower part of the large wall with black streaks, and the right one is the wall of the gully through which the lower part of the route passes. Under the right part of the gully's wall is a large rantkluft that narrows at the narrowest part of the "gates." Ascend from the rantkluft up the steep snowy slope to the start of the rocks. On the right side of the grey rocks (this is the lower part of the gully), reach the R1 ledge. From here, ascend via a cleft to a small ledge beneath a short rib — the edge of the R3 gully (monolithic climbing with small holds). Landmarks for further movement are:

• to the right above — an enormous, sharply protruding vertical rib-corner;
• to the left — the edge of the large gully.

Kichkinelkol from Talychat Pass, combined, 2B

Route Description

From the ice bivouacs, cross the Sredniy Kichkinelkol glacier plateau to reach the slopes of Talychat Pass, located to the left of Kichkinelkol peak. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Cross via a bridge or the rock shelves of the island adjacent to the left edge of the bergschrund (rocks are heavily damaged, beware of falling stones!). Then, ascend the left side of the snowy couloir, with a steepness of up to 45°, to reach Talychat Pass (beware of stones!). In the second half of summer, fine and loose scree appears in the upper part of the couloir. Traverse close to the Talychat rocks or leftwards via shelves and individual rock outcrops («live» stones!). From the bivouac to the pass — 3–4 hours. From the pass, move to the eastern side of the ridge, then traverse 40 m via shelves, followed by an ascent up two internal corners to the left of the large rock wall R1 to an inclined shelf between R3 and R4. From there, ascend short walls and blocks to reach the main ridge at R5. Alternative ascent from the pass (if there's no snow):

• Ascend an internal corner past the ridge line to an inclined shelf.
• Then, climb a steep wall to reach the main ridge and proceed to R5 along it. From R5, ascend the ridge and slightly below it, which is composed of inclined slabs, to reach the summit. From the pass — 3–4 hours. Descent follows the «Kichkinelkol from Kichkinelkol Pass» route.
• Begin the ascent to Talychat Pass at 5:00–6:00 am.

M5. Djalpakol via the Eastern Ridge

(climbing route, category 2B, first ascent by A. Fridman, 1959) The path to the eastern ridge of Djalpakol is visible from the bivouac - it's a large talus couloir that leads to the first left, lowest, notch in the ridge immediately after its rocky section. Ascent via the couloir:

• yellow-colored talus (loose rocks!) Upon reaching the ridge:
• turn right;
• move along weathered rocks with individual rock walls After about 300 m, ascend to the beginning of the narrow part of the ridge. From here, reach the gendarme and bypass it on the left — R1. Sections R3 and R5 require piton protection! The key sections are:
• the light-colored rise of the ridge,

2. Ascent to the north-west peak from the Morды valley — cat. diff. 2A

From the "Udzunkol" camp along the right bank of the Morды river to the old koshi, cross to the left bank and along the trail to the large moraine of the Dalar glacier. Along the moraine to its middle part, where it flattens. From here to the left-down and further up the slopes to the talus terrace under the NW edge of Trapezia. The bivouac site. From the camp 3.5-4 hours. From the bivouac:

• up steep talus upwards in the direction of the huge chute-couloir;
• to the right of it — along slabs and rocks to the place of its narrowing;
• crossing on snow (belay!) to the left side of the couloir;
• further up along the stepped rocks and shelves from island to island — ascent to a heavily destroyed rocky ridge;
• along it — to the "central" rocky island (belay!). From the island to the rocks straight-up (belay!) to a large smoothed rocky block on the slope under the peak. Exit to it along narrow shelves and short walls (belay! Pitons!), and further along the destroyed rocks to the ridge under the gendarme.

185. Asmashi Peak via the West Ridge (combined route, Tomasheka, Cat. 3B, Fig. 24, 27). From the Asmashi Pass (170 m) turn right and ascend a steep snow-and-ice slope with rock outcrops on the right side of the North Buttress (cornices, protection) of Asmashi's West Ridge onto the shoulder of the West Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow a gently sloping, simple, long, in places narrow snow-covered (cornices) rocky West Ridge («live» rocks, protection); surmount the I and II gendarmes on steep moderately difficult rocks («live» rocks, pitons) and ascend a snow-and-ice slope to the summit of Asmashi. 6–7 hr from the Asmashi Pass.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: "in accordance with KTMVG" Caucasus, from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Bashil — 4257 m, via the center of the West Face.
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 780 m, average steepness 70°. Section lengths: 1st diff. cat. — 0, 2nd diff. cat. — 0, 3rd diff. cat. — 70 m, 4th diff. cat. — 415 m, 5th diff. cat. — 300 m, 6th diff. cat. — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: | For belaying | For creating artificial holds | | :----------: | :---------------------------: | | Rock — 83 | 37 |

Ascent Passport

1. Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
2. Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
6. Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.