ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS HIGH-TECHNICAL CLASS 2024

Report on the ascent of Dalar peak (3988 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder (Yu. Porokhnya Route, 1978), 5B cat. diff., combined. July 29, 2024 – July 31, 2024.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Danil A. Kadyrmaev, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Mikhail D. Marakuev, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of coach, sports rank	O.A. Yakimenko MS, P.Yu. Fominykh CMS
1.4	Organization	St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, a/c "Gornyak", a/c "Voenmekh"

Dvoinyashka Peak — 3800 m

Traversing the Western and Eastern peaks (Description of the route as you move towards the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the first koshi, cross the bridge to the left bank, and follow the trail to a large talus accumulation in the gorge. After the talus, follow the riverbank to the start of the ascent up the left, grey, large moraine. Ascend along the ridge to a clearly defined confluence of two moraine ridges. From here, descend left from the moraine via a trail and ascend a grassy slope to a terrace, then continue up slopes and scree to reach the large-boulder moraine. Cross it to reach the Dalar Glacier plateau. Crossing the plateau, approach the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend a snowy slope to a terrace before a steep snowy ascent (80 m, 50°). In rope teams, ascend to the bergschrund — cross via a bridge and a gap (belay!). Beyond the bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the Dalar pass. There are platforms on the rocks. From the camp, it takes 5.5–6 hours. From the Dalar pass, descend left and down, bypassing the southern ridge of Dalar Peak, and follow the scree left of the "ram's foreheads" to the upper part of the cirque between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks, to the 1st narrow couloir on the left. Ascend the couloir (in rope teams!) 50 m up and exit to a scree terrace. From the terrace, go right through a snowpatch and then along the "ram's foreheads" (belay!) — exit right and below the saddle between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks. From here, traverse right along a large terrace, through a snowpatch, to a rocky outcrop, and from it descend to a depression in the southern ridge of the Western Dvoinyashka peak. Ascend 50 m straight up along broken rocks to the base of the ridge — a bivouac site. From the Dalar pass, it takes 4 hours.

Report

On the ascent to Dolomit Centralny peak via the route along the Western wall edge ("Мечта" or "Dream"), rock climbing, category 4B, by the "BARS" team from August 8, 2020 to August 8, 2020.

I. Climbing Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Belyankina Natalia Pavlovna, 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Semiletkin Sergey Alekseevich, Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	Alpclub SPbSU "BARS"
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

M91. Dolomit Yuzhny — Severny via the western wall ascent

(climbing route, 4A category of difficulty) The ascent to Dolomit Yuzhny via the western wall follows the M84 route. From the summit:

• Descend along the ridge towards Dolomit Maly.
• Bypass a small gendarme standing on a saddle in the ridge along the boundary between snow and rocks.
• From the saddle, move to a ledge on the left of the ridge and, bypassing the wall and a transverse ridge behind it, descend via a scree couloir (falling rocks!) and a short wall into a pass.
• From here, follow a straightforward ridge to reach Dolomit Maly.

Castle East — West from the Burevestnik col to Dvoinyashka, combined, 4B

Route description:

The ascent to the Castle West peak is described in the "Castle from the Burevestnik col" route. From it, descend to the saddle (cornices!). Via broken rocks and a short wall, reach the East peak. Return to the West peak via the ascent route. From it, descend to the south side of the ridge via R1–R3 ledges and traverse around a small gendarme R3–R4 and then the "Beak" gendarme R4–R5 via a narrow ledge half a foot wide (tense climbing). Via a 15-meter internal corner, reach the top of the "Beak" gendarme and rappel down to the ridge R7. From here, 50 m of difficult ridge rock climbing follows to the last gendarme, climbed "head-on" via a difficult wall (no bypass!). Then, via a 500-meter (cornices!), and from R11 steep (50°) snowy ridge, reach the saddle between the Castle and Dvoinyashka. From the West peak — 12–14 hours. Descend from the saddle by rappelling left down a steep narrow couloir (falling rocks!) to a narrow, indistinct ledge. From it, rappel down 30 m. Then, via a steep snowy couloir, snowy slopes, and scree ledges and terraces, descend to the scree plateau under the Castle's southern slope. From the saddle — 4–6 hours. From the plateau, via scree terraces, bypassing the Dvoinyashka and Dalar peaks from the south, ascend to the Dalar col. From the plateau — 3.5 hours.

• equipment recommendations: see the "Castle via the eastern ridge" route;
• the R4–R5 ledge is a psychologically tense section of the route. (1) — view from the southern side

The summit of Kara-Baschi — 3600 m

1. Ascent via the eastern edge — category III complexity (Description of the route as you move to the summit) From the "Uzungkol" camp, along the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the right moraine of the Mordy glacier. Along it, and then along the grassy slopes (trail) to a large green terrace — a bivouac site — "Mordy overnight stay". From the camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the bivouac, up to the right to the talus couloir and up it to the upper rock outcrops. Then (in bundles!) along the steep snowslope (belay!) to the left and up to the talus plateau. (At the beginning of summer — snowy). From the plateau, traverse a steep snowslope (belay!) to the slopes and further to the foot of the eastern edge of the summit. Bypassing the edge on the left and along the ledge to the right and up — exit to the edge ridge and along it 300 m to a ledge turning into an overhanging wall 5 m high (belay, hook!). Along the wall, exit to an inclined ledge ending in an overhanging wall 8 m high. Along the wall straight up to the ridge (belay!) and along it 40 m to the wall. Along the wall 17 m to the right and up along the slabs (hooks!) and further along the edge to the ridge. From the ridge, descend into a dip — 20 m — rappel and then ascend 15 m to a site in front of a negative 4-meter wall — and through it exit to the ridge (method of overcoming — "live" ladder — belay!). Along the ridge 40 m to a lowering in the ridge, then ascend along a steep snowslope (belay!) and along the rocks covered in ice — exit to the summit. Descent:

Report

on the passage of Krugozor-Myrdy, 2A cat. sl. of the Popov V.I. team

	1. General Information

Sports team of Voroshilovgradkhimstroy complex Uzunkol alpine camp

REPORT

on the first ascent to the Shidag-Mingen peak via the northern ridge, category 3B, on July 27, 1980 Severodonetsk From the bivouac on the moraine in the cirque of B. Nakhar and Dvuzubka peaks, along the moraine ridge on the left side of the North Nakhar glacier, then ascent to the right and upwards along the glacier to the bergschrund under the couloir leading to Igolchaty pass. 1 hour from the overnight stay. Cross the bridge from right to left (belay), exit to simple rocks and along the talus shelf - under the overhangs on the left side of the couloir. Under the overhangs, along the boundary of rocks and snow, ascent to the start of a 20m 60° chimney. Up the chimney (rocks! pitons!) and then along the 40m 45° inclined slabs (belay), exit to the talus couloir. 200m along the couloir - simultaneous movement - from left to right towards the snow and then 40m upwards along the rocks like "sheep's foreheads" (belay! pitons!). Exit under the finger on the pass (convenient bivouac spot) and then to the pass. This is the I control point. 2 hours from the bergschrund. From Igolchaty pass, along the left side of the wall, 20m 80°, exit to a shelf. From the shelf straight up along a 7m 90° chimney and then along an inclined crack under the overhangs (difficult climbing), exit to a narrow (0.5m) horizontal shelf - 10m under the overhangs (careful belay!). At the end of the shelf is the II control point.

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy (proposed) via the Western wall, approximately 4A category of complexity by the team from Voronezh region on August 11, 2021

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Danilkova Ekaterina Borisovna, CMS
1.2	Full Name, sports rank of the participants	Dmitrienko Evgeniy Vladimirovich, MS
1.3	Full Name of the coach	Torshin Mikhail Viktorovich
1.4	Organization	VROO "Sports Alpine Federation"
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UZUNKOL VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE "SAMARA-PENZA" TEAM, AUGUST 24, 2022

1. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Klimov Sergey Alexandrovich, CMS
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Strochkov Maxim Sergeevich, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of Coaches	Erokhov Igor Yurievich, Knyazeva Marina Alexandrovna
1.4	Organization	SROO "FASO"
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1	Region	Uzunkol