18. Passimta via the Western ridge (combined route, A. Naumova, category 3B difficulty, fig. 5, 6). From the Zestho alpine camp, go up the road to the Lower Sites, then along the trail on the right bank of the Zestho River and further along the snowfield covering the river. In the upper part of the gorge, turn left from the snowfield and, traversing along the trail on the left slope, approach the waterfalls. From here, along a steep trail to the left of the waterfalls, move up, then, crossing the left stream, exit onto the Upper Sites below the Sharivtsék pass via the trail. From the Zestho alpine camp, 4–5 hours. From the sites, ascend up and to the right along easy rocks, talus, and snowy slope to the Sharivtsék East pass. From the Upper Sites, 0.5

11. Sandro Zapadnaya — Sandro Glavnaya

(combined route, A. Naumova, category 3B, fig. 2, 4). From Sandro Zapadnaya (m. 8. descend easy broken rocks on the right side of the East ridge. I gendarme is bypassed on the right via simple broken rocks and ledges. Then follow easy rocks of the East ridge to the II gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via ledges. Then traverse via rocks on the left side of the long East ridge, crossing the ice and snow slope, to approach a narrow ice and snow couloir. Cross the couloir (protection), via a partially narrow ledge (piton) exit to an ice and snow couloir descending from the North ridge of Sandro Glavnaya peak. From the ledge ascend 20 m up on the right side of a steep ice and snow couloir (pitons).

250 m up to the saddle of the Western ridge of the Tichtengen summit. From the Kitlod glacier - about 1 hour. The approach from the Chegem tourist base to the saddle of the Western ridge is carried out from the Kulak glacier. The path to the upper plateau of this glacier is described in route 233. From the upper plateau along a steep ice-snow slope with a bergschrund in the lower part - a simple ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge. On the saddle (when ascending from the Kitlod glacier) turn right and ascend along a simple snow-covered rocky Western ridge. Bypass the ridge's gendarme by traversing 40-45 m to the right along steep rocks of medium difficulty.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: technical (wall). 2. Ascent area: Main Caucasus Range from the south, area of Semi pass – Tsanner pass. 3. Ascent route: Tikhtengen, South summit 4611 m via the South-East wall. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference to the summit 1000 m, wall height difference 900 m, average slope of the entire route 65°, average slope of the wall proper 70°, length of complex sections 560 m (including very complex ones 370 m) 5. Pitons driven: rock — 116, ice — 4, ladder usage — 11 times 6. Number of walking hours: processing 140 m — 3 hours. 1st day — 13 hours, 2nd day — 11 hours, 3rd day — 12 hours, descent — 14 hours 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

55. Fyt­narg­in via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, fig. 5, 8). From Shariv­cek East Pass (n. 18) descend a glacier slope to the snow plateau of the Eastern branch of Fyt­nargin Glacier. From here, cross the glacier plateau leftwards (closed crevasses, protection) and approach the right side of the icefall of a hanging glacier descending from the base of Fyt­nargin East Ridge, left of the South Ridge of the Unnamed Peak. From the plateau, ascend 100–120 m up an ice-and-snow slope right of the South Ridge of the Unnamed Peak. Then turn left and ascend a steep narrow ice-and-snow gully, simple broken rocks 40–60 m up (protection) to a saddle on the South Ridge. From the saddle, step left onto a steep heavily broken hanging glacier and follow it, avoiding crevasses, to a snow plateau on the right side at the base of Fyt­nargin East Ridge. Along the plateau (closed crevasses) traverse along the northern slopes of the East Ridge, bypassing ice falls on it and crossing a bergschrund, ascend a steep 120–150-meter ice-and-snow slope to the East Ridge. Follow a long, wide, in places narrow, gently sloping snow (cornices), with exposures of easy broken rocks ridge, then ascend a 40–50-meter narrow steep snow (protection) East Ridge to below the summit north slope. From here:

• ascend 50–60 m up a steep ice-and-snow slope (piton),
• then ascend 8–10-meter steep broken snow-covered rocks (protection) to the summit of Fyt­nargin. From Shariv­cek East Pass — 7–9 hours Fig. 8.

51. Fytnergyn via Western Ridge

(combined route, Yu. Porokhnya, category III, fig. 5, 8). Follow the Northwest cirque plateau (point 45) to reach the broad ice-and-snow slope of the Western Ridge saddle of Fytnergyn. 1.5–2 hours from Zeskho Pass. From the plateau, keeping to the rocks on the left side, cross the bergschrund and ascend 200–250 m up the ice-and-snow slope (avalanche risk, protection) to the right side of the Western Ridge saddle of Fytnergyn. About 1 hour from the plateau. Here, turn right and ascend 40 m up easy rocks of the Western Ridge to the base of the first pinnacle. Traverse it on the left and then ascend steep moderate rocks («loose» stones, pitons) to the Western Ridge. Then follow 200 m along easy, crumbling ridge rocks to the second pinnacle (crux). Ascend 40–45 m up moderate rocks of the Western Ridge (piton protection) to the second pinnacle. From it, descend 3–4 m to a connecting ridge, from which traverse 15–20 m to the left of the third pinnacle along a ledge. Then ascend 30 m up a sheer icy chimney or, left of it, up smooth moderate slabs («live» pitons) to the Western Ridge at the third pinnacle. Further, follow easy, crumbling, snowy (cornices), occasionally steep Western Ridge, overcoming the fourth pinnacle head-on, to reach easy snowy rocks below the summit rise. Ascend a simple, narrow, 30-meter ice-and-snow Western Ridge, then a steep, 50–60-meter ice-and-snow northern slope (protection) of the rise, and finally a steep, easy, 8–10-meter rocky section to reach the summit of Fytnergyn. 6–8 hours from the plateau. Fig. 8.

52. Fytiargin from the south via the Western ridge couloir (combined route, V. Laperashvili, 3A category of difficulty, fig. 5, 8). From the plateau (checkpoint 37) upwards - to the right under the left side of the wide snow-ice slope - the couloir descending from the Western ridge of Fytiargin. Further, having avoided numerous crevasses of the lower ice rise on the left, ascend 200-300 m on the left side of the gentle slope of the plateau. Having overcome the bergschrund, on the left side of the steep wide snow-ice couloir, keeping to the rocks of the Southern counterfort of the Western ridge (stones fall from the summit tower on the right), 300-350 m upwards (avalanches, steepens at the top) to the saddle of the Western

Fig. 12. The lamp of the couloir on the right side of the Central rib. Then, via simple snow-covered (cornices) rocks of the Eastern ridge, ascend to the summit of Tsurungal. From the bivouac on the wall, 6 hours. 63. Tsurungal via the South ridge (combined route, A. Japaridze, category III difficulty, fig. 5, 10, 12). From the "Aylama" alpine camp, cross the Koruldashi river via a temporary bridge and follow the trail on the right side of the gorge to the first snowy couloir. To the right of the couloir are rock climbing areas. Cross the couloir, turn right and ascend via the trail:

• grassy,

Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")

Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"

Kiev — 1967

Data on team members