11. Sandro Zapadnaya — Sandro Glavnaya

(combined route, A. Naumova, category 3B, fig. 2, 4). From Sandro Zapadnaya (m.

  1. descend easy broken rocks on the right side of the East ridge. I gendarme is bypassed on the right via simple broken rocks and ledges. Then follow easy rocks of the East ridge to the II gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via ledges. Then traverse via rocks on the left side of the long East ridge, crossing the ice and snow slope, to approach a narrow ice and snow couloir. Cross the couloir (protection), via a partially narrow ledge (piton) exit to an ice and snow couloir descending from the North ridge of Sandro Glavnaya peak.

From the ledge ascend 20 m up on the right side of a steep ice and snow couloir (pitons). Then, after passing a 1.5–2-meter rock inner corner, traverse to rocks on the left side of the ice and snow couloir. Via steep broken rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the couloir ascend 40 m (pitons) to an ice and snow saddle on the North ridge. Along the saddle approach right under the North wall of Sandro Glavnaya peak. From here descend 30–40 m left and down on the right side of the eastern couloir (protection). Then exit to rocks of the North wall, from where 60–80 m up and right via steep inclined ledges and slabs of medium difficulty (pitons), then 60–80 m up via simple rocks («live» stones) to the North ridge. Finally, via easy broken rocks ascend to Sandro Glavnaya peak. From Zapadnaya — 3-4 hours.

Sources

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