55. Fyt­narg­in via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, fig. 5, 8). From Shariv­cek East Pass (n. 18) descend a glacier slope to the snow plateau of the Eastern branch of Fyt­nargin Glacier. From here, cross the glacier plateau leftwards (closed crevasses, protection) and approach the right side of the icefall of a hanging glacier descending from the base of Fyt­nargin East Ridge, left of the South Ridge of the Unnamed Peak. From the plateau, ascend 100–120 m up an ice-and-snow slope right of the South Ridge of the Unnamed Peak. Then turn left and ascend a steep narrow ice-and-snow gully, simple broken rocks 40–60 m up (protection) to a saddle on the South Ridge. From the saddle, step left onto a steep heavily broken hanging glacier and follow it, avoiding crevasses, to a snow plateau on the right side at the base of Fyt­nargin East Ridge. Along the plateau (closed crevasses) traverse along the northern slopes of the East Ridge, bypassing ice falls on it and crossing a bergschrund, ascend a steep 120–150-meter ice-and-snow slope to

the East Ridge. Follow a long, wide, in places narrow, gently sloping snow (cornices), with exposures of easy broken rocks ridge, then ascend a 40–50-meter narrow steep snow (protection) East Ridge to below the summit north slope. From here:

• ascend 50–60 m up a steep ice-and-snow slope (piton),
• then ascend 8–10-meter steep broken snow-covered rocks (protection) to the summit of Fyt­nargin.

From Shariv­cek East Pass — 7–9 hours

Fig. 8.