3. Maly Galdor via the Western Ridge (combined route, category II difficulty). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–12 people) to the platforms near the black rock is described in route 1. From the platforms, ascend via a potentially snow-covered scree-filled couloir towards the saddle between Sredniy and Maly Galdor. In the middle part of the couloir, exit it and proceed 200–250 m upwards along the scree shelves and rocky outcrops on its right side. Then, ascend a steep 80–100-meter ice-and-snow slope of the couloir (risk of rockfall — use protection) to reach the right side of the ridge saddle between Maly Galdor on the right and Sredniy on the left. At the saddle, turn right and exit onto the rocks of Maly Galdor's Western Ridge. Continue along the straightforward, occasionally steep ridge rocks, overcoming small rock formations head-on (the large rock formation can be bypassed on the right with protection), to ascend Maly Galdor. The ascent from the platforms near the black rock takes 3–4 hours. The descent follows the ascent route. Source:

• Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Gülchi

The Gülchi massif (4477 m) consists of the peaks Gülchi and Rtsy­vash­ki. It is located in the western part of the Sugansky Ridge, between the peak of Sugan­Tau (located east of the Rtsy­vash­ki pass, to which the Southeast ridge of Gülchi descends) and the peak of Komsomol Ukrainy (to which the North ridge of Rtsy­vash­ki approaches). From under the wall of the Southwest shoulder of Gülchi in the Akhsu gorge depart:

• Southwest ridge with the peak Akhsu,
• from the East shoulder to the East Rtsy­vash­ki glacier descends a steep rocky edge. Between the southeast and south ridges of Gülchi lies the Akhsu glacier, feeding the Akhsu river, and in a small corrie under the southern slopes of the peak Akhsu - a small glacier Maly Akhsu, the flow of which is a tributary of the Akhsu river. From the summit tower of Gülchi to the northwest departs a practically uninterrupted ice-covered ridge of the main massif Gülchi, ending with a small two-humped peak Rtsy­vash­ki. Beyond Rtsy­vash­ki, the ridge of the massif:
• turns north,
• descends to the ice saddle,

48. Dneprovskoy Pravdy Peak (4000 m) via the West Ridge (route is combined, category 1B difficulty). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River (group of 4–20 people) ascend to the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier and cross it to the right. From the Nakhashbita Glacier, traverse via talus, grassy slopes, and moraines, cross the Kamenistyy stream, and approach the Sugansky Glacier. Ascend onto it and move up, keeping to its right side. After passing the first icefall (belaying required), traverse the glacier leftwards and upwards towards the western slopes of Dneprovskoy Pravdy Peak, bypassing the rock walls and the steep rise at the base of the West Ridge on the right via the Eastern branch of the glacier:

Fig. 13 51. Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2A). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygan-su River (group of 4–12 people), ascend to the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier and cross it to the right. From the Nakhashbita Glacier, head towards the Sugan Glacier. Before reaching it, turn left and follow the steep moraine along the Kamenisty Stream to reach a small cirque with the Kamenisty Glacier, formed by the ridges of Peak Zorya and the North Shoulder of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the Kamenisty Glacier, ascend a simple, gentle 450–500-meter snow slope of the couloir to the Kamenisty Pass. From the base camp, it takes 3–3.5 hours. At the pass, turn left and ascend via the right side of a simple, heavily broken 300-meter ridge, then via a simple 60-meter rock ascent (with protection) to reach the North Shoulder of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the Kamenisty Pass, it takes 1 hour. On the shoulder, turn right and ascend via a simple, gentle snow-covered rock 200-meter North Ridge, then via a snow ascent to the Kupol pinnacle. From the Kupol pinnacle, descend via simple rocks on the right side of the North Ridge into a snow-filled cirque. From here, ascend a snow slope (with protection) with an ice-snow ascent (with piton protection) on the North Ridge for 120 meters below the second pinnacle. Overcome the pinnacle via a gentle, broken 60-meter ridge with an ascent to its summit on the right via a narrow chimney (with protection). From the pinnacle, make a simple descent onto a sharp snow ridge. Further, follow the sharp, then broad and long North Ridge with outcrops of rocks, ending with an ice-snow ascent, then ascend via simple rocks on the right side of the ridge for 200 meters to Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the base camp, it takes 8–10 hours.

Fig. 13 49. Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy via the South Ridge (a combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 13). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River (a group of 4–12 people) ascend the moraine ridge to its end under the slopes of Peak Shevchenko. From here (closed crevasses) cross to the right side of the Nakhashbita Glacier and ascend it to the Northwest Branch of the glacier, descending from the right from the Moris Torez Pass. Then:

• turn right and, staying on the right side, traverse the icefall in the lower part of the Northwest Branch of the Nakhashbita Glacier;
• move up the gentle (closed crevasses) snow plateau and slopes of the Northwest Branch of the glacier in the direction of the Moris Torez Pass;
• approach the snow slope — a couloir descending from the South Shoulder of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy on the right. From the base camp — 4–5 hours. Here, turn off the glacier to the right and ascend a gentle 300-meter snow slope — a couloir — to the ridge leading to the South Shoulder of the South Ridge of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the glacier, about 1 hour. On the ridge, turn left and traverse a simple, gentle, snow-covered ridge — slope — to the South Shoulder.

Fig. 8 31. Doppakh East via Eastern ridge (combined route by V. Popov, category 4A, fig. 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the Doppakh pass is described in route 17. A bivouac is possible at the pass. At the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocks of the Eastern ridge of the East Doppakh peak. Through rocks of medium difficulty with short sections of above-medium difficulty:

• left - upwards to a wide chimney with two large boulders.
• Through rocks on the left side of the wide chimney, ascend to a talus shelf above the

Fig. 8 32. Doppakh East via the North-Eastern Slope (combined route A. Zyuzin, cat. 4B, Fig. 8). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygan-su River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4-8 people), ascend via the crest of the left-bank moraine of the glacier to its end. Here, descend to the right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier and approach the serac zone of its Southern branch. On the route:

• Ascend the powerful, steep, and heavily crevassed serac zone to the upper snow plateau leading to the Doppakh Pass.
• Traverse the plateau to the right and upwards onto the scree of the short Northern counterfort of the North-Eastern slope of the Eastern ridge of the Vostochny Doppakh peak. The initial bivouac is on the scree. From the base camp, it takes 6-7 hours. The approach path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow to the Doppakh Pass is described in route 17. From the pass, descend northwards down a steep ice-snow slope with an 8-10-meter sheer wall of the bergschrund in the lower part. Further, keeping to the left side of the Nakhashbita Glacier, it is necessary:
• to descend a steep slope with numerous crevasses;

Fig. 8 29. Dop­pakh Wes­tern from the south via the couloir and the Eas­tern ridge (A. Uva­rov’s com­bined rou­te, dif­fi­cul­ty ca­te­go­ry 3B, fig. 8). From the “Na­khash­bi­ta” meadow (group of 4–8 peo­ple) up­wards to the left (to the north-west) along the gra­ssy slopes and mo­re­nes to the tongue of the South Dop­pakh gla­cier. From the mo­re­na (se­cu­ri­ty) up a steep icy slope to the South Dop­pakh gla­cier and along it up­wards. A small gla­cier fall in the mid­dle part of the gla­cier — pass through the cen­ter. Be­hind the gla­cier fall, as­cend along the gen­tly slo­ping gla­cier (co­vered cre­vas­ses), then, over­co­ming two berg­schrunds, along a steep icy-snow slope (pit­on se­cu­ri­ty) move to the right side of the low­est rock tri­an­gu­lar is­land on the left side of the cou­loir lea­ding to the mas­sif’s sad­dle. Cir­cum­vent the rock is­land to the right and along a steep nar­ro­wing icy-snow cou­loir (rock­fall pos­si­ble, pit­on se­cu­ri­ty) as­cend to the sharp snow (big cor­nice) sad­dle of the mas­sif be­tween the Wes­tern and Cen­tral Dop­pakh sum­mits. On the sad­dle, turn left and reach a snow plat­form be­low the Eas­tern ridge of the Wes­tern Dop­pakh. On the plat­form, set up a bi­vouac. From the “Na­khash­bi­ta” meadow, 6–8 hours. From the plat­form:

• a steep as­cent along a 60–80-me­ter icy-snow slope on the right side of the Eas­tern ridge (pit­on se­cu­ri­ty);
• then, along the right side of a 180–200-me­ter sim­ple snow ridge, as­cend to a small snow plat­eau;
• from it, over­co­ming a snow cre­vas­se along a gen­tly slo­ping 120–150-me­ter snow ridge — to the sum­mit of Wes­tern Dop­pakh.

Fig. 7 24. Doppakh Western peak via the Southern ridge (a combined route by L. Artsyshevskaya, category 4A, Fig. 7). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (a group of 4–6 people) to the summit of Yuzhny Doppakh is described in route 22. From the summit, descend along the simple snow-covered Northern ridge in the direction of Zapadny Doppakh to two rocky gendarmes. Bypass the gendarmes (belay on a rope):

• to the right — along a steep snow-ice slope,
• to the left — along the rocky ledges of the wall (“loose” rocks)

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.