img-0.jpeg

Fig. 13

  1. Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2A).

From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygan-su River (group of 4–12 people), ascend to the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier and cross it to the right. From the Nakhashbita Glacier, head towards the Sugan Glacier. Before reaching it, turn left and follow the steep moraine along the Kamenisty Stream to reach a small cirque with the Kamenisty Glacier, formed by the ridges of Peak Zorya and the North Shoulder of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the Kamenisty Glacier, ascend a simple, gentle 450–500-meter snow slope of the couloir to the Kamenisty Pass. From the base camp, it takes 3–3.5 hours.

At the pass, turn left and ascend via the right side of a simple, heavily broken 300-meter ridge, then via a simple 60-meter rock ascent (with protection) to reach the North Shoulder of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the Kamenisty Pass, it takes 1 hour.

On the shoulder, turn right and ascend via a simple, gentle snow-covered rock 200-meter North Ridge, then via a snow ascent to the Kupol pinnacle. From the Kupol pinnacle, descend via simple rocks on the right side of the North Ridge into a snow-filled cirque. From here, ascend a snow slope (with protection) with an ice-snow ascent (with piton protection) on the North Ridge for 120 meters below the second pinnacle.

Overcome the pinnacle via a gentle, broken 60-meter ridge with an ascent to its summit on the right via a narrow chimney (with protection). From the pinnacle, make a simple descent onto a sharp snow ridge. Further, follow the sharp, then broad and long North Ridge with outcrops of rocks, ending with an ice-snow ascent, then ascend via simple rocks on the right side of the ridge for 200 meters to Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the base camp, it takes 8–10 hours.

Descend to the southeast via the couloir (see route 50). Naumov A. F. Karau gom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i Sport", 1976.

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment