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Fig. 13

  1. Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy via the South Ridge (a combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 13).

From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River (a group of 4–12 people) ascend the moraine ridge to its end under the slopes of Peak Shevchenko. From here (closed crevasses) cross to the right side of the Nakhashbita Glacier and ascend it to the Northwest Branch of the glacier, descending from the right from the Moris Torez Pass.

Then:

  • turn right and, staying on the right side, traverse the icefall in the lower part of the Northwest Branch of the Nakhashbita Glacier;
  • move up the gentle (closed crevasses) snow plateau and slopes of the Northwest Branch of the glacier in the direction of the Moris Torez Pass;
  • approach the snow slope — a couloir descending from the South Shoulder of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy on the right.

From the base camp — 4–5 hours.

Here, turn off the glacier to the right and ascend a gentle 300-meter snow slope — a couloir — to the ridge leading to the South Shoulder of the South Ridge of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the glacier, about 1 hour. On the ridge, turn left and traverse a simple, gentle, snow-covered ridge — slope — to the South Shoulder.

On the shoulder, turn right and move along a heavily destroyed, rugged, gentle 700–800-meter South Ridge, bypassing all gendarmes and difficult sections on the right side ("live" rocks — protection), to a 150-meter rock ascent to the peak. From the South Shoulder — 2–3 hours.

From here, ascend simple, heavily destroyed, and in places steep ("live" rocks — piton protection) rocks on the right side of the ascent to Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the base camp — 10–12 hours.

Descend to the southeast via the couloir (see route 50).

Source: Naumov A. F. "Karau gom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus)" M., "Fizkultura i Sport", 1976.

Sources

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