Fig. 8
- Doppakh East via Eastern ridge (combined route by V. Popov, category 4A, fig. 8).
The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the Doppakh pass is described in route 17. A bivouac is possible at the pass.
At the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocks of the Eastern ridge of the East Doppakh peak.
Through rocks of medium difficulty with short sections of above-medium difficulty:
- left - upwards to a wide chimney with two large boulders.
- Through rocks on the left side of the wide chimney, ascend to a talus shelf above the wide chimney.
- Cross into a sloping narrow chimney and ascend to a sharp ridge.
Further along the 40–50-meter Eastern ridge, exit onto a platform below the first pillar, bypass it on the right through rocks of above-medium difficulty to exit onto a saddle below the II pillar.
Second variant of ascent to the saddle below the II pillar. Ascending via Maly Nakhashbita glacier, 80–100 m before the pass, turn left into a rocky couloir. Through rocks of medium, местами above-medium difficulty of the 120–150-meter couloir:
- rockfall is possible,
- "live" stones — piton belay.
Ascent to the saddle between I and II pillars.
From the saddle, traverse the II pillar on the right (piton belay). Further through simple rocks of the destroyed ridge, exit onto a large horizontal ledge on the right side of the ridge. Bivouac on the ledge.
Time from:
- Doppakh pass — 3.5–4 hours
- "Nakhashbita" meadow — about 7 hours.
From the bivouac site on the ledge, ascend through rocks of above-medium difficulty on the left side of an 8–10-meter wall. Further through rocks of medium difficulty, traverse right-upwards to a small couloir and through it onto a snow-ice slope descending from the Eastern ridge onto Nakhashbita glacier. From here, through a 200–220-meter steep snow-ice slope (bivouac possible) along the rocks on the right side of the Eastern ridge, then through 50–70 meters of simple and medium difficulty rocks of the Eastern ridge's ascent, ascend to East Doppakh. Bivouac possible. From the bivouac site on the ledge, 5–6 hours.
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.