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Description of the route to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) along the eastern ridge, complexity category 2B, route condition as of September 2015: snow-ice, without technically difficult rock sections.

Description of the route condition to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:

  • snow-ice
  • rock sections do not present technical difficulties.

Approaches

Get to the village of Verkhniy Koni, register at the border outpost (the summit is located in the border area, to make ascents you need to obtain a permit to enter the border zone in the established form, it's better to do this in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau, 2 km further up the gorge — there's a border post, this is the farthest point you can reach by car. From the border post:

  • A gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) goes up the Genaldon gorge
  • The trail leads to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier
  • This is where the base camp for ascents to Mt. Kazbek from the north is located
  • There are places for tents and water
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Description of a combined route of category 2B complexity to the summit of Kichchchkort (4133 m) via the north-eastern buttress in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — Combined 2. Ascent area — East Caucasus, Shavana ridge 3. Peak, its height, route — p. Kichchechkort, 4133 m, via North-Eastern buttress of Eastern ridge. 4. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 900 m. b) route length — 1500 m. c) average steepness of the route — 50° 5. Pitons hammered for belay (I.T.O.): — rock — 14

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Ascent record of Salgi peak (3961 m) via North ridge in the Shavana range, Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class — Rock climbing 2. Ascent area — East Caucasus, Shavana ridge 3. Peak, its height, route — Salgi peak, 3961 m, via the North ridge 4. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 700 m. b) route length — 1800 m. c) average steepness of the route — 45–50° 5. Number of pitons used for protection (I.T.O.): - rock pitons

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Ascent to the summit of Addala-Shukhgel (4151 m) in Dagestan via the northern ridge, difficulty category 2B, a combined route with an altitude difference of 850 m and an average steepness of 45°.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent class: combined
  2. Ascent area: Dagestan mountains
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Adдала-Шухгель Mt., 4151 m, via N ridge
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference — 850 m
    • average steepness — 45°
    • length of sections:
      • I difficulty category — 590 m
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Ascent to the summit of Adalla-Shukhgel (4151 m) via the southern ridge, difficulty category 2B, route description and approaches.

  1. Ascent class
  2. Climbing area
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route
  4. Estimated difficulty category
  5. Route characteristics
  6. Number of pitons driven
  7. Number of travel hours
  8. Number of overnight stays
  9. Names of team leader and participants, their sports qualification
  10. Team coach
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Description of the first ascent of a combined route of category III complexity to the summit of Adala-Shukgelmeér (4151 m) via the right gully of the North-Eastern wall in the Bogossky ridge, Dagestan.

I. Category of first ascents. 2. Region 2.10, Dagestan Mountains, Bogossky Ridge. 3. Addalashukhgelmeer, 415 m, via the right gully of the North-East face, combined route. 4. Proposed category 3B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 700 m, route length: category 1 - 450 m, category 2 - 450 m, category 3 - 120 m, category 4 - 195 m, category 5 - 15 m, total route length 1220 m, average slope of the gully 45°. 6. Pitons used: rock - 6 pcs, ice screws - 17 pcs. 7. Climbing time - 7 hours. 8. No overnight stays. Overnight stay at the base camp, at TDS "Sulak-Vysokogornaya" (2953 m). 9. Leader: Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Team members: Ivanov Alexander Petrovich, 2nd sports category; Maximov Vladimir Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category; Fomin German Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category.

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**Peak Chkalova (4104 m): description of the 2A category route via the northern spur, approaches, and descent options.**

Chkalov Peak (local name — Anchobolameer), with a height of 4104 m, is located in the ridge of the Kad ridge — a northwestern spur of the Bogossky range. To the east of the summit rises Baydukov Peak (4081 m), to the west — Tsunkalata Peak (4084 m). The mountain is composed of black slate schist with sharp outcrops of dense crystalline sandstone. The northern spur of the mountain divides the Zigitli glaciers (to the west) and Belenge (to the east). The southern slope of the summit descends to the Osuka glacier. Along the northern spur of the mountain, a 2A category route is laid. The nearest peaks with laid routes are:

  • Addala (1B, from Chakatly lake)
  • Baydukov Peak (1B, along the ridge and 2A, from Belenge lake)
  • Bochek (2B, traverse of three peaks)

Approach Description

From the camp located on the "Upper pasture" near Bichuga lake, go north along the foot of the "3900" mountain. Bypass the Osuka glacier icefall and go along the snow-covered transverse valley along the old right-bank moraine of the Osuka glacier to the point where it meets the southern slope of Chkalov Peak (alternative — up the center of the moraine). Then, a gentle ascent to the moraine ridge and exit to a flat area formed by the moraine and the slope of the Zigitli pass. This is the starting point of the route. From the camp — 2 hours.

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Ascent to the summit of Babaku (3997 m) along the southern ridge, category IБ, length 900 m, total height difference 790 m.

Ascent Passport. I. Route is combined (K) 2. 2.96 mountains of Dagestan (East. Caucasus) 3. Ascent to the peak Babaku, 3997 m via ridge 10 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 1B 5. Route characteristics: — length — 900 m — total elevation gain — 790 m — average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons were not used 7. The route was completed without intermediate bivouacs

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### Traverse of Bochek, S. Gadjieva, and 3800 Peaks in Dagestan Category: 3B Details of the route and approach to this challenging traverse in Dagestan, involving the crossing of the Bochek, S. Gadjieva, and 3800 peaks.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent (traverse) class
  2. Ascent area
  3. Peak, height, ascent route Combined, # 2.9 (East Caucasus), 4116 Bochek/4040/S. Gadzhieva/3812, traverse from the southwest.
  4. Proposed difficulty category 3B
  5. Route characteristics Elevation gain 1100 m, length of sections:
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Ascent to the Jadlyk summit from the north, category 4A, via West Jadlyk Glacier and a rocky-ice route with piton belay.

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  1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
  2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
  3. SHELF ("POLKA")

Footnotes

  1. 1 ЧЕЛНО-РЕ­ЗО­ДОУ С КТОУ 2 СРА­ЗОНЬЕ СЕ­ТУ­РО­ГА 3 БОРН­МОУ СРА­ЗОНЬЮ ОЕ­ТЮ­ГО 4 СТЕ­НКА 5 ТОР­КА 6 РЕ­ЗО­ДУЮ КУ ТЯП 7 ТИ­НУ­ТА 8 РЕ­ЗО­ДОУ С КТОУ 9 ДЕ­РЕ­МУ­НКА 10 ОГ ПУ­НЬКА DESCENT ROUTE:

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