Chkalov Peak (local name — Anchobolameer), with a height of 4104 m, is located in the ridge of the Kad ridge — a northwestern spur of the Bogossky range.

To the east of the summit rises Baydukov Peak (4081 m), to the west — Tsunkalata Peak (4084 m). The mountain is composed of black slate schist with sharp outcrops of dense crystalline sandstone.

The northern spur of the mountain divides the Zigitli glaciers (to the west) and Belenge (to the east). The southern slope of the summit descends to the Osuka glacier.

Along the northern spur of the mountain, a 2A category route is laid. The nearest peaks with laid routes are:

• Addala (1B, from Chakatly lake)
• Baydukov Peak (1B, along the ridge and 2A, from Belenge lake)
• Bochek (2B, traverse of three peaks)

Approach Description

From the camp located on the "Upper pasture" near Bichuga lake, go north along the foot of the "3900" mountain. Bypass the Osuka glacier icefall and go along the snow-covered transverse valley along the old right-bank moraine of the Osuka glacier to the point where it meets the southern slope of Chkalov Peak (alternative — up the center of the moraine). Then, a gentle ascent to the moraine ridge and exit to a flat area formed by the moraine and the slope of the Zigitli pass. This is the starting point of the route. From the camp — 2 hours.

Route Description

From the site (3580 m), a steep ascent on firm firn to the Zigitli pass. Step cutting, rope installation. Before reaching the pass saddle, there are 20 meters of steep slate rocks forming an internal corner. On the pass (3820 m), belay through an ice screw. (From the site — 1.5 hours).

From the pass, along the destroyed and gentle western ridge of Chkalov Peak to the wall. Bypass is not possible.

Along the steep wall:

• alternate belay through ledges.

Along the slate ridge (cornices to the north) with simultaneous belay to the junction of the ridge with the northern spur of the peak.

Steep firn slope:

• step cutting,
• leads to the forepeak.

Along the ridge to the south (cornices). When crossing the upper part of the snow couloir — rope installation. Exit to the summit dome along a steep but short ascent (cornice to the east). On the summit (4104 m) — a cairn. From the pass — 3.5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.

Descent variation:

• along the destroyed ridge to Osuka pass,
• descent to the Osuka glacier, which is closed in this part,
• along the glacier along its junction with the southern slope of Chkalov Peak to the foot of the right-bank moraine (Osuka icefall is bypassed to the north).