Ascent Log

I. Ascent class — Rock climbing 2. Ascent area — East Caucasus, Shavana ridge 3. Peak, its height, route — Salgi peak, 3961 m, via the North ridge 4. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 700 m. b) route length — 1800 m. c) average steepness of the route — 45–50° 5. Number of pitons used for protection (I.T.O.): - rock pitons - ice pitons - bolt pitons 6. Number of climbing hours on the route: to the summit 7 hours. 7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: NONE. 8. Proposed category of difficulty — 1B 9. Full name of the team leader, participants, and their qualifications 1. Mintuev Kh.Ts. — 1st sports category 2. Vdovychenko V.I. — 1st sports category 3. Govorov S.S. — 1st sports category 4. Maslennikov A.I. — Candidate Master of Sports 10. Team coach: Vasilenko A.A. II. Date of departure for the route and return to base camp: a) departure on the route — August 31, 1984 b) reaching the summit — August 31, 1984 c) return to base camp — August 31, 1984 Photo 1. General view of Salgi peak (3961 m)

Description of the Ascent Area

The object of the ascent is located in the Eastern Caucasus, in the southern part of the ChIASSR, in the Shavana ridge.

The object of the ascent is located in the center of the Shavana ridge, which divides the gorges of the Kistinka and Shan-don rivers. This ridge is home to the peaks of Shan (4451 m), Dzeneladze (4400 m), Rustavi (4350 m), Kichchechkort (4133 m), and others. The peaks of this ridge have routes (from the Kistinka gorge side) ranging from 1 to 4B category of difficulty.

No ascents have been made from the Shan-don river gorge side before.

At the 21st km of the Military Georgian Road, the Terek river is joined by its left tributary, the Armkhi river. The road leads to the village of Armkhi (12 km) — regular buses run from the city of Ordzhonikidze.

From the village of Armkhi, follow the Armkhi river upstream to its confluence with the Shan-don river (about 2 hours walk).

Then continue up the Shan-don river (direction — south). The gorge is covered with forest, with a good trail.

At the forest boundary near the lakes (2071 m) — base camp from the village of Armkhi — 6–7 hours.

From the base camp to the eastern cirque of the peaks Kiggek-kort — Salgi:

• Path along the wide couloir-slope on the left bank of the Shan-don river.
• Ascend to the East Kig glacier.
• The glacier is covered with moraine.
• Overnight stay below the Eastern ridge of Kichchechkort peak near a large "reddish" rock (3200 m).
• Water in a crevasse of the glacier.

From the base camp to the overnight stay — 5–6 hours.