REPORT

ON THE ASCENT (TRAVERSAL) OF AKBENSKIE PEAKS VIA THE CENTRAL EASTERN EDGE EXPEDITION LEADER GNOEVSKY I.P. Taganrog 1978

I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Akbenskie (North and South) peaks are located in the Ptysh cirque and are adjacent to Ptysh Glavny from the south, and to the Juguтурлючат massif from the north. Thus, Akbenskie peaks are situated on the Main Caucasian Ridge. The height of the South peak is 3510 m, and the North peak is 3530 m. The Akbenskie peaks drop sharply into the Ptysh cirque from the east and to the South Ptysh cirque from the west. The height difference from the glacier to the peak is 1100 m.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Area

Severodonetsk Sports Club "Khimik"

UkrSSR Alpine Championship

Report

On the first ascent of the Aksaut traverse with ascent via the East ridge to the Second Northern Aksaut and further traverse to the Eastern Aksaut (approximately route 5B cat. diff.) July 14 – July 20, 1972  The ascent is dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the USSR formation Severodonetsk – 1972 

List of assault group participants

REPORT

on the ascent to v. Glavny Amanauz from the north, via the spur through the firn ridge, first ascent from July 15–17, 1972

I. Group Composition

Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, b/p, DSO "Spartak" "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Khamsov A.P. — 1st category, junior instructor a/l "Alibek", b/p, DOO "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Interaction group — group of Severo-Donetsk gatherings, route to v. Glavny Amanauz from Amanauz pass 3B category.

II. Alpinist-Geographical Characteristics of the Glavny Amanauz Peak Area

v. Gl. Amanauz (3755 m) is located in the area of the Main ridge, surrounding the cirque of the East Amanauz glacier and has a long ridge, stretched approximately from west to east (see attached map). Three classified routes lead directly to v. Gl. Amanauz:

• from Amanauz pass, along the western ridge 3B category

1. Climbing category	— rock climbing
2. Climbing area	— Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.
3. Peak, climbing route	— M. Belalakaya from Belalakayskiy pass
4. Estimated category of difficulty	— 3B
5. Route characteristics:	— combined
Elevation gain	— 750 m
Average steepness of the route	— 35°
Length of grade 3 sections	— 240 m
Length of grade 4 sections	— 55 m

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Malaya Belalakaya 3748 m via the center of the northern wall, made by a group of instructors from the "Alibek" alpine camp.

Group composition:

1. Abarbachuk Georgiy Samuilovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist.
2. Boyko Viktor Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist. Head of the training department — Master of Sports of the USSR Kovalenko Yuriy Ivanovich DOMBAY 1982

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass
3. Peak, height, ascent route — Dzhalovchat (Uzlovaya), 3680 m, via the northeast ridge, combined, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 480 m, length of sections: category I difficulty — 1240 m, category II difficulty — 830 m, category III difficulty — 60 m, Total — 2130 m, average steepness of the ridge section — 35°
6. Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolt, placed elements. | for belay | 6 | 1 | - | 10 | |---|---|---|---|---|

Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")

Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"

Kiev — 1967

Data on team members

№ п/п	Surname, name, patronymic	Year of birth	Nationality	Party affiliation	Sports rank	Climbing experience	Primary profession	Place of residence

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief:

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF PIK SHCHUROVSKOGO Central Council of the Sports Society "Avangard" Kiev — 1962 Profile of the lower part of the large rock island. Sections of the wall R7–R10. Photograph taken by V. Bocharov during the ascent of the northeast wall of Pik Shchurovskogo on July 14, 1962.

Introduction

Pik Shchurovskogo (4259) is located in the Central Caucasus and is situated in the ridge that borders the Shkheldy glacier from the northeast.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: