Report

on the first ascent of Terskolak N.W. via the northern slope and western ridge, approximately category 2B

Ascent Details

1. Region of ascent, section number — 2. Caucasus according to the Classification Table 2013 — 2.4. from Chiperaza pass to Gumači peak
2. Name of the peak, its height — Terskolak N.W. (3790 m) name of the route
   • via N slope and W ridge
3. Proposed — category 2B first ascent
4. Nature of the route: — combined

Central Caucasus

ULLUKARA 4037 m via the northwest wall buttress. (Tentatively — 2B cat. difficulty.)

1. Temirov Anatoly Magometovich 1st class
2. Temirov Mukhamed Magometovich 1st class Bauman MSTU Sports Club.

Geographic Description of the Climbing Area

The ULLUKARA peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the peaks of Bashkara to the east and Pik Volnaya Ispaniya to the west. This section of the Main Caucasian Range is in the Baksan Valley area. The Baksan Valley area is one of the most visited regions by climbers in the Caucasus. The alpine camps located in the area, good roads, and numerous beautiful peaks make this area attractive to climbers. Many climbing routes of varying difficulty have been laid out in this region. The most beautiful peaks of the Caucasus, such as Ushba, Shkhelda, Chatyn, Volnaya Ispaniya, and many others, are located in this part of the Central Caucasus. The Ullukara peak is situated in the upper Adylsu gorge. A good automobile road leads from Nalchik to the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp. From the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp to the Kashkatash glacier plateau, a good trail is laid out. Further, the path goes along the Kashkatash glacier to the ascent to its upper plateau. The ULLUKARA peak is a huge rocky massif covered with a powerful ice cap. It rises with black walls above the Kashkatash glacier. To the northeast from Ullukara, a short northern spur extends with the peaks of Pik Germogenova and Chegetkara. Between the peaks of Ullukara and Pik Germogenova lies a glacier. The weather in this region is usually good, with short, rare periods of bad weather. Fogs are common, coming from the south through the Kashkatash pass.

ASCENT RECORD

1. Climbing category — ice and snow.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Ullu-Kara, 4302 m, via the right part of the north-eastern wall, ice and snow route.
4. Proposed difficulty category 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1300 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 170 m, average steepness 47°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 13, ice screws — 60, protection gear — not used.
7. Total climbing hours — 19.
8. Number and nature of bivouacs: one, lying down.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Ullu-Kara via the left part of the north-eastern wall (first ascent).
4. Difficulty category: 5B, approximate.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1545 m.
   • height difference — 1300 m.
   • average steepness — 47°.
   • length of sections with 5.6 difficulty category — 500 m

B.­Yuy­yu­ka­ra

on the left side of the NW wall

Ascent Record

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ФЕДЕРАЦИЯ АЛЬПИНИЗМА РОССИИ

1. Ascent category: technically challenging
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: Malaya Ushba via the western ridge 4320 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • altitude difference: 320 m

ASCENT DOCUMENT

First Ascent Category — TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE USHBA PLATEAU USHBA MALAYA 4309 m VIA NORTH-EAST RIDGE Proposed difficulty category: 3B Height difference — 200 m (from the plateau) Length of 5A category difficulty sections — 5 m

Ushba Malaya (174) 4200 m, cat. diff., k, via 233 ridge

From the AUSB "Elbrus" along the Shkheldinsky valley to the Ushba icefall and further to the Ushba plateau. From the saddle between Bolshaya and Malaya Ushba, approach the start of the route via snow. The route starts to the right of the double couloir. The landmark is a snow-covered vertical chimney that ends with a "finger" clearly visible on the ridge. Climb up an 8-meter wall with a steepness of 85° and few holds, using piton belay (difficult climbing). From this point, traverse right under an overhanging red wall (20 m) along an inclined grey ledge. Then, climb straight up a 5-meter vertical wall and make a pendulum traverse to a vertical chimney. Climb straight up the chimney (piton belay, difficult climbing, rime ice) — 40 m. The chimney leads to the beginning of the shoulder on the western ridge. At the exit to the shoulder — on the "finger" — there's a control cairn. Further along the ridge, traverse snow-covered rocks of medium difficulty with variable belay (no выступы) — exit to the summit (7 ropes). From the plateau to the summit: 5–6 hours. The descent via route 2B cat. diff. is described in Naumov's book "Baksan Valley". Leader: N.N. Kiyantsia.

Yu­da Ma­ras

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — ROCK
2. Ascent region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS
3. Peak, its height, route — MALAYA USHBA, 4200 m, via the SOUTHWEST BUTTRESS, COMBINED
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m route length — 860 m length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 242 m average steepness of the route — 59°

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: