Peak 3063 (Ayyulyu South). Route: via the eastern spur. Complexity category — 3A (combined). Team leader: A. Kuznetsov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Irkis valley, Gabulu ridge, Ayyulyu tract Section in KMGV — 2.1.

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3063 (Ayyulyu South) as part of the climbing competition: "Third stage of the cup of NP «Sauk-Pai North Travelers Club» — «Irkis-2015»" (class "First ascents") in May 2015. Route: via the eastern spur. Complexity category — (approximately) 3A combined Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Irkis valley. Ridge: Gabulu, Ayyulyu tract. Peak: 3063 (Ayyulyu South). Route: via the eastern spur. Complexity level: 3A category (combined) (approximately). Prepared by: A. Kuznetsov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2015.

Ayyulyu tract

The Ayyulyu tract is located in the upper reaches of the Belaya River (Ayyulyu) — a left-bank tributary of the Psysh River in the Irkis valley, on the eastern slope of the southern part of the northeastern spur of the Arkasar ridge (Gabulu ridge). The Ayyulyu tract is a pronounced mountain horseshoe formed by the southeastern and eastern spurs of the Gabulu ridge. The nodal peaks and passes of the spurs do not have official names, but each has traditional names established in guidebooks and guide-books. The mountain horseshoe of the Ayyulyu tract (from left to right):

Peaks:

• 3090 m (Dorbun-Ka­ya Northern)
• 3117 m (Dorbun-Ka­ya Main) Route: traverse of the Dorbun-Ka­ya mountain massif from north to south Difficulty category — 3A Combined difficulty category Leader: A. Lyapun Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Irkis valley, Arkassara ridge, Amanaus river mountain valley Section in KMGV — 2.1.

Report

Peak 2900 (Kara-Dzhash North-Eastern). Route: via the Eastern couloir and the Southern ridge. Cat. difficulty: 1B* (combined). Leader: A. Yarunov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Dzhash mountain range. Section in CMGA - 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 2900 (Kara-Dzhash North-Eastern) "Via the Eastern couloir and the Southern ridge 1B* (combined)". At the year-round alpine event:

• Climbing competition
• NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pay'"
• 2013 — "Victory Cup"
• Class "First ascents"

Kara-Djash Peak (3171) Route: via the western couloir and northern ridge Category of difficulty: 3A cat. sl. (Combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Kara-Djash ridge Section in CMGV - 2.1. E-mail - ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the top of Kara-Djash (3171) "Via the western couloir and northern ridge 3A cat. sl. (Combined)". At the year-round alpine event Championship and primacy of NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2011 (class "First ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic

Western Caucasus. Arkhyz. Orlenok hollow. Summit — Kara-Jash (3171 m). Route: "Via the southwestern wall" 3B (combined)

Summit Description

Kara-Jash summit (3171 m) — a nodal summit of the mountain massif (on old maps — ridge) Kara-Jash. Located on the territory of the Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region (Orlenok hollow), between the rivers Pshish, Sofia, and Orlenok. Kara-Dash summit (3171 m) — a pronounced mountain of the Karajash ridge, easily identifiable from the Taulu clearing, located at the confluence of the Sofia river into Pshish river. The official name of the summit, marked on the geographical maps of the Russian Federation (Scale: 1

Kara-Djash peak (3171 m). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Category of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Leader: K. Shustov. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Djash mountain range. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the alpinist route to the Kara-Djash peak (3171 m) "via the north-eastern ridge (combined)". At the year-round alpine event, competition in mountaineering NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2013 — "Cup of Victory" (class "First Ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain range: Western Caucasus. Gully: Orlenok. Mountain range: Kara-Djash. Peak: Kara-Djash (3171). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Level of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Prepared by: K. Shustov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2013.

Description of the peak

Kara-Djash peak (3171) is a nodal peak of the Kara-Djash mountain range. Located on the territory of the Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region (Orlenok gully), between the rivers:

• Psyish
• Sofia

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.1. Western Caucasus, mountain region — Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, mountain massif (ridge) Kara-Jash
2. Names of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100»)
3. Heights of peaks: 2900–3171–3170–3201–3226
4. Route: traverse of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») from north-east to south

Description

The route of the first ascent to the peak Uzlovaya - Kardyvach via the Western ridge by the group of the Krasnodar regional Federation of alpinism DSO "Burevestnik" in May 1972.

Approach to the initial bivouac

From the city of Adler to the Risha lake - by bus. Then to the Avadhara settlement 4-5 hours walk or 30 minutes by car (depending on road conditions). Overnight stay. Departure from the Avadhara settlement at 4-5 am to reach the south-eastern slopes of the Kuta-teku False pass before sunrise. 1.5-2 hours walk. Then ascent along the pronounced rib directly along the route. Snow slopes with a steepness of 25-30°. After ascending to the ridge, turn right to the Kuta-teku pass. Ascent to the pass takes 3-4 hours. Possible bivouac site. Then descend from the pass along a snowy slope with a steepness of 45°. Two ropes. Then the slope is 20-25°. Descend to the forest. At the entrance to it, turn left and traverse the slope. Follow the stream leading to the Kardyvach lake. Convenient and safe bivouac site. From the Kardyvach lake bivouac, head south through the forest, along the left (orographic) bank of the Lagyernaya river, to a wide snowy chute. Up the chute and then left to a vaguely expressed rib leading to the western ridge of the Uzlovaya - Kardyvach peak. Reach the ridge at a point without a cornice. From the base camp 1.5-2 hours. R0-R1.

Description of the ascent route

CLIMBING CLASS

CLIMBING AREA PEAK, ROUTE ESTIMATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS

• NUMBER OF PITOONS DRIVEN
• NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS
• NUMBER OF NIGHTS ON THE ROUTE
• CLIMB LEADERS PARTICIPANTS

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: