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Winter Russian Cup, 258a, 1994

56 m REPORT on the ascent of the team (alpine club "Gornjak") to Shkhelda peak, III-a West, via the left part of the North face (4229 m) — First Ascent Team leader: Botov D.A. 2. Golubtsov S.G. 3. Reminyuk A.A. 4. Shevchenko V.V. Team coach: Odintsov A.N. 7–10/2–94

Ha­ka 3-0

307. Dolra East via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2B diff., fig. 32, 42). From the Southern “Becho” Shelter, go up the Dolra River. Cross the river and ascend steep grassy, and higher up scree (loose rocks) slopes to a small plateau at the foot of the ascent to the East Ridge of Dolra peak. Set up the initial bivouac at the plateau. From the Southern “Becho” Shelter 3–4 hours. The exit to the East Ridge is also possible from the Dolra Glacier (point 295). From the plateau, go up a snow-covered couloir on the left side to reach the East Ridge. Further, ascend 600–700 m up along the wide, heavily jagged and ruined easy rocky East Ridge with numerous gendarmes that are either overcome head-on or bypassed, to a small plateau below the Big Gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a 20-meter wall (cam). Further, along the heavily ruined, and in places snow-covered (cornices) East Ridge, ascend to the summit of Dolra East. From the initial bivouac: 5–7 hours. Fig. 42.

Tyutyu 2nd Western (4420 m). Route via the Southern ridge (“through the lens”), category 3B. The Tyutyu peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Adyr spur of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Jailyk and Sullukol peaks. The first ascent was made by S. Goluvev via the Western ridge in 1914. Tyutyu is a mountain massif consisting of:

• Eastern (4400 m),
• Main (4460 m),
• Central (4430 m),
• 2nd Western (4420 m),
• Western (4350 m) peaks, located in the northwestern spur (Adyr ridge) of the Main Caucasian Range (Kabardino-Balkaria Republic), between the Adyr-Su and Tyutyu-Su rivers. The name translates from Balkarian as “barberry peak”.

110. Peak Shchurovskogo via North-Eastern Ridge (route by V. Pelevin, category 4B complexity). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) along the Shkhelda Glacier to the "Shkhelda bivouacs" is described in route 105. From the "Shkhelda bivouacs" cross the left branch of the Shkhelda Glacier upwards to the right and descend under the right side of the false Chatyn pass. From the glacier, ascend the steep snowy slope and through a bergschrund reach the rocks. Ascend along moderately difficult snowy rocks, then along easy terrain to the right side of the ridge saddle — the false Chatyn pass. From the saddle, turn right and move up along easy rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Peak Shchurovskogo. Bypass the

Fig. 12 44. Sugantau via the Northeast ridge (combined route by V. Maslov, category 3A, fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the rocky platforms at the base of the Eastern counterfort of the South ridge of Sugantau peak, under the right side of the Gulchi pass saddle is described in route 46. Without reaching the platforms, continue ascending the Doppakh glacier, following its left side, to the icefall in the upper part of the glacier, between the eastern slopes of Sugantau peak and the rocky island in the center of the glacier. Traverse the icefall between the crevices on its left side, following the slopes of Sugantau peak (belay). Beyond the icefall:

• across the closed plateau
• along the gentle snowy slopes of the glacier Reach the Sugan-2 pass saddle, located between Sugantau peak on the left and Uzlovaya Sugan peak on the right. From the glacier, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80-100 m up the steep ice-snow slope (possible rockfall - piton belay). Then, ascend the moderately difficult rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" ("live" rocks - piton belay) to reach the Sugan-2 pass. This is the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, 6-8 hours.

Fig. 19 72. Taymaz East via North-Eastern Ridge (snow and ice route, category 2B, fig. 19). From the Taymazi glade (group of 4–20 people), descend along the trail to the bridge over the Khares River, above the confluence of its right tributary, Tanadon. Cross the Khares River here via the bridge. From the Digoriya CPS:

• Down the gorge to Tanadon.
• From here, ascend along the wide forest trail of the valley along the right bank of Tanadon.

ASCENT PASS

I. Ascent class: technical. 2. Ascent area: from Gezetau Pass to Gurdzautsek Pass. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Tajmazi Central peak (3700 m) via the northeast counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B category. 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 700 m
• Average steepness: 45°
• Length of sections:
  • R1 — 500 m

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus. Digoria, Rocky ridge, section number in KMGV 2.6.
3. Uazakhoh (3529 m), via the Eastern ridge and the Northern wall of the tower.
4. 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference of the route 530 m, route length about 1 km. Average steepness of the route 30°.
6. Driven pitons: 2/0; закладок 3/0. Left on the route rock anchors — 2, for descent.
7. Team's walking hours – 6 hours, days – 1.
8. Comfortable overnight stay.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category: combined.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus; 2, 6; Sugan Range.
3. Peak, route: Uruimagovoi Peak (3912 m) via the Southeast Ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B category of difficulty; p/p
5. Route description: height difference – about 500 m. route length – 1250 m. section lengths:
   • 2 category of difficulty – 320 m.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the North-West ridge, category 5B, undertaken by the team of alpinist camp "Varzob" UA VS DSO trade unions from July 30 to July 31, 1984 Team captain — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov, Team coach — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov. Addresses:

• alpinist camp "Varzob" — 734003, Dushanbe, post office box 362
• Team captain — 734061, Dushanbe, ul. 50 let Tadzhikistana, d. II, kv. 4, Kapitanov Oleg Viktorovich Altitude measurement was done using altimeter AV No. 714568. Steepness was determined visually and with the help of a protractor. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the left) PHOTO-2 Date taken — July 31, 1984. Distance — 1.5 km. Time taken — 12:00. Shooting point — 2. Lens — Industar 52/2. Shooting height — 4100 m. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the right)