Here, an overnight stay is possible: there is water available in mid-summer. The ascent to the ridge begins after circumventing the rocks along the edge of the snow on the right side, in the lower part of the gendarme — via broken rocks. Proceed in the direction of the saddle between the gendarme and the second part of the ridge ascent. After reaching the saddle, move slightly to the left. Belay is via pitons; piton placement is necessary for belaying and for artificial anchors. Further along the ridge:

• monolithic rock sections are circumvented on the left
• via loose rocks — ascent to the summit of Жанатау. Descent from the summit towards the summit of Ленинградец is initially via rocks, then via a steep snowy section leading to a snow platform in front of the monolithic rock Зуб, rising before the second pass. Descend to the foot

1. Ascent via the couloir and the southeastern ridge.
2. Ascent via the northwestern ridge.
3. Ascent via the northern wall. Ascent to the summit of Karaulchitaus via the couloir and the southeastern ridge, category 1B difficulty route (fig. 32). The Karaulchitaus summit is located in a lateral spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau range, branching off from the Aktau summit to the northwest and bearing the same name. The Karaulchitaus summit is the extreme northwestern point of this spur. The path to the summit from the "Talgar" mountaineering camp goes along the trail through the gorge. Rounding the foot of Karaulchitaus from the west, move to the tongue of the Shokalsky glacier, then turn left and ascend the moraines of the Salanov glacier. After 4-5 hours of walking from the camp, a horizontal sandy area, convenient for a bivouac, is reached. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac on the Sandy area begins along the talus, then goes through the couloir leading to the saddle between the Karaulchitaus and Chekist summits. The ascent through the couloir, depending on the time of season, is either on ice covered with snow or on talus, sometimes icy, sometimes snow-covered. Steepness is 30-35°. From the saddle, turn left and move along the ridge with drops of no more than 30° steepness. After 30-40 minutes of movement along the ridge, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The total ascent time from the overnight stay on the Sandy area is 5-6 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

Photo of 4 Corner Peaks of the traverse:

• 6th along Korablestroitelstvo
• Chekist
• Solntsevo
• AktiU

Traverse of the Kishkine-Tau and Suleiman-Stalsky peaks from the Jamboul glacier to the Severtsev glacier, 3B category of difficulty (fig. 13). From the bivouac on the Shokalsky glacier descend to the glacier tongue. Ascend along the tongue to the middle moraine (black), and along it - to its end. Then:

• Descent to the right,
• Then move along the middle of the glacier, keeping direction to the Kishkine-Tau peak. After some time, you will reach a strip of black stones, running from north to south. Follow along the stones. To the right are red taluses descending from the slab-like ridge running from the Jamboul peak. Do not approach this ridge: there are large crevasses! To the left is the end of the glacier descending from behind the Chokon Valikhonov peak.

Route Description

Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges extend from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from the slopes. The approach to the route begins from the Tuyuksu glacier in the direction of the Lokomotiv pass on the southeastern side of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya. A wide couloir (in winter, filled with snow) at the beginning of the route R0 leads to a talus couloir, which exits onto the southeastern ridge. Then:

• A small wall leads to a несложный (uncomplicated) ridge of 1–2 cat. dif.
• Further — a talus couloir, turning into an inner corner;
• The end of the route — the exit to the summit of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya.

168

Kazakh Republican Climbers' Club

Description of the ascent to the peak named after Sarym Kuderin

Alma-Ata, 1966 The Sarym Kuderin peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the area of the Gorodetsky Glacier northeast of the Legostaev peak. The peak is double-headed. The eastern dome is named Sarym Kuderin peak. The height of the peak is 4300 m above sea level. To the north-northwest, a hanging glacier descends. The north buttress is a rocky part. The steepness of the rocks is up to 55–65°. The rocks are destroyed. The snow line starts from the north at a height of 3500–3600 m. To the south, there are snowy slopes, to the east - a ridge to a nameless peak with cornices. The ascent in winter conditions was made at the beginning of December 1964 by a group of the "Burevestnik" sports society. Approaches:

• From the Alma-Ata lake along the trail.
• In the area of alpine meadows, the trail is snowed in.

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier and, moving along the left lateral moraine, cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier that flows into it. Then follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the peaks of Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya. The ascent to the Lokomotiv peak is described above (category 2A difficulty via the North ridge). Bypassing a series of gendarmes on the right via moderately difficult and easy rocks, descend to the saddle between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Ascend to the peak of Pogrebetskogo via snowy, not very steep slopes, and occasionally talus. Then move along the eastern ridge to the Tuyuk-Su pass. From there, descend to the glacier to the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuk-Su peak, and, bypassing it on the left, head to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 10–12 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.

Ascent to the summit Metallurg via the North-West ridge, route 4Б cat. diff. (Fig. 49). The summit Metallurg is located in the main ridge of the Zailiyskiy Alatau, to the North-East of the Talgar massif. The approach path to the summit from the alpinist camp "Talgar" starts along the trail past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge and goes to the terminal moraine of the Ozerny glacier. Cross the terminal moraine and exit to the right (orographically) lateral moraine of the glacier, then:

• go along the lateral moraine,
• continue moving along the glacier. In 5-6 hours, the foot of the couloir is reached, leading to the saddle of the North-West ridge of the summit Metallurg. Here, on the moraine of the Ozerny glacier, it is possible to make the first overnight stay. There is water. The ascent to the saddle, taking an hour and a half, begins the route. On the saddle is the 1st control point. From the saddle, a small descent and going around the first gendarme along the firn slope with a steepness of up to 45°, after which the ascent begins along the first rocky wall. Height Fig. 49

on crampons, then along the gully itself with flow ice for the first thirty meters on the right side — cutting steps. In the upper part, the gully is blocked by a rock wall 6–8 m high. It is also covered with flow ice. Protection is by pitons. Ascent through crevices. After 3–4 m, transition to the boundary of rocks and ice. Above the wall there is a ledge, convenient for belay. Above the gully, the slope is 45–50° steep, covered with ice. It is safer to pass it on the left side to the rocky ridge and traverse to the right upwards, and then move from one rocky section to another. The exit to the ridge itself is blocked by another 12-meter rock wall. Overcome it along inclined shelves. The exit to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. Along the ridge, move in the direction of the summit to the southeast. After 100–150 m, easy

GVANDRA PEAK – 3993 m

1. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak from Ak-Tyube Pass – Cat. 1B
2. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge from Ak-Tyube Glacier – Cat. 2B (Description of the route as you move towards the peak) Difficulties
3. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak – Cat. 1B The path to the bivouac is described in the description of the Kara-Baschi peak. From the bivouac:

• straight across the moraine to the Morde Glacier;